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February
17, 2005
Hortiscope
Ronald C.
Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service
Q: In a recent column,
you said that your answers regarding orchids came from research because
you aren’t as educated about them. I may have an Internet site that
can answer your questions about orchids (www.beautifulorchids.com).
Troy and Isabella Woodcox own Beautiful Orchids, a San Francisco shop
that sells orchids and helps clients take care of the plants. Click on
orchid 101 to have your questions answered. (Bismarck, N.D.)
A: Thanks for the
information! I’ll certainly use the site in the future. It is
impossible to be knowledgeable about all things horticultural. In my
early years, when I saw what it would take to know or be any kind of
expert on orchids, I decided that I would leave that area of horticultural
expertise to someone else. Thanks for being a faithful reader of the
column!
Q: I recently purchased
a croton plant. I have been researching its needs, but I am not applying
my newfound knowledge very well. My croton looks like it is dying. The
bottom leaves are falling off, while the other leaves are becoming green
instead of multi-colored. I need specific information about how much to
water, fertilize, etc. (e-mail reference)
A: There are three
things crotons need in abundance. Crotons need bright light to maintain
their fiery color, which makes these plants so attractive. They need
a high- humidity environment, so you may want to consider a portable
humidifier. Crotons also need year-round warmth. They need to be away
from cold drafts or defoliation will take place. Young plants should
be repotted every two years. Repot as necessary the older, more mature
plants in 6-inch or larger pots. Repot in a freely-draining container
with porous soil that will facilitate good water movement. Try to keep
the media uniformly moist for best results.
Q: How do I get my
jade to flower? (e-mail reference)
A: With light, patience
and a visit to the following Web site:
www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/houseplnts/jade.htm.
You will find plenty of hints on how to grow jade plants successfully.
Q: Is it true that
lacebark elm trees will grow 4 to 6 feet every year? Another tree I considered
was an autumn blaze maple, which is a cross between a red and silver maple.
Ultimately, I decided on the lacebark elm. I agree with you that the lacebark
is gorgeous! (e-mail reference)
A: I enjoy seeing
people make good tree choices. The lacebark elm is an excellent choice!
Q: My father-in-law
insists he used to start new apple trees by cutting off a branch and sticking
it in the ground. We doubted his story until we were looking at our children’s
question-and-answer book. It says sour apples come from trees started
from seeds and sweet apples come from trees started from limbs. Now we
are very curious. Do you have any information on starting new trees from
limbs? Is there any truth to the sweet/sour story? (Brookings, S.D.)
A: Your father-in-law
has a “Smith” sense of humor, just like my dad. Apple trees
can be propagated from softwood cuttings or seed. Trees rooted from
stems are clones (asexual propagation). No one can root a branch from
a tree that produces sour apples if they want sweet apples! Seedling
stock (sexual propagation) will produce offspring that are widely variable
in fruit quality and taste. Some will be sweet, some tart, some large
and some small. In general, commercially available apples trees are
usually bud or cleft grafted to take advantage of a hardy rootstock.
Go to my Web site on home propagation techniques at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257w.htm
for more information. You may then want to explore our fruit tree publication
at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/hortcrop/h327w.htm.
Near the end of the publication is an explanation of the various budding
and grafting techniques.
Q: Recently, I had
a conversation with a horticulturist and Kansas State forester regarding
the quality of deciduous shade trees available at nurseries, garden centers
and discount stores. The horticulturist/forester made the statement that
the quality issue is one of container-grown trees versus containerized
trees. At the time, that statement went over my head at Mach 3 speed.
Today, I realize that his statement was probably quite profound. Could
you elaborate on the quality difference between the two? (e-mail reference)
A: Container-grown
trees have their entire root system within because they have been grown
in containers (imagine that!) since their seedling days. Containerized
trees are trees that may have been grown in a nursery field (balled
and burlaped). The burlap or the ball breaks down and the tree or shrub
is then containerized. Any roots that can’t fit in the container
are removed. The same is true with field-grown woody plants. If the
difference isn’t too much, then it is no big deal. If there is
nothing left but the fleshy or prop roots, it is a big deal because
that plant’s ability to take up water and nutrients is greatly
impaired.
Container-grown and containerized woody plants are easier to handle,
ship and care for by retail outlets, making them the logical choice
for all retailers. This saves labor, is cleaner for the client to handle,
and most members of the human race know enough to take them out of their
containers before planting into the landscape. At that time, it becomes
immediately evident as to whether or not the plant was container-grown
or containerized. With the former, there should be roots beginning to
encircle the interior geometry of the container and the rootball (soil
and roots) should hold together fairly well. With the latter, there
will be no such encirclement and the rootball will fall apart, exposing
the stubby roots that were cut back. Many nurseries get bare-root plants
for early season (while the plants are still dormant) sale in this very
competitive market. Savvy gardeners know this is the best time to make
economical, quality purchases. Rose bushes, raspberries and small fruit
trees (called liners) are examples. As soon as the plants begin coming
out of dormancy, the nursery operator has two choices: heel them in
or plant them in containers. In this instance, if the right size container
is selected, quality potting soil used, the planting is successfully
carried out and no problem exists, you can have a good container-grown
plant. This is because from that time on, that is where the plant will
remain, in a container. The plant will be moved up to the next nominal
size pot if needed. Essentially, the retail outlets, usually family-owned
businesses, do the same thing that wholesale nurseries would do; move
the small bare-root stock into containers for the duration of their
life before being planted. Without a doubt, the quality will be with
the container-grown stock rather than the containerized material.
Do you have a gardening
or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension
Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu.
Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and
state) for most accurate recommendations.
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Source: Ron
Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu
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