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April 7, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I have black aphids on the leaves of my bamboo plant. What can I do to get rid of the aphids before they destroy my plant? I also have aphids on my white arrowhead plant. (e-mail reference)

A: There is a material known as Insecticidal Soap that will take care of the problem through direct contact. It is not harmful to the plant or you. It is available from almost any garden supply outlet.

 

Q: I wrote last year about an orchid problem I had. The leaves were shriveling and limp. It died. I was under the assumption that, since orchids love humidity and moisture, I should water it when the substrate is slightly dry. I have come to realize that the worst thing for orchids is overwatering. I’m also ashamed to admit that my husband uses the “nurture by neglect” method and has been able to keep his orchid alive for nearly a year. It even has a new leaf coming out. We have it a foot away from an east window in a cool (60 to 65 in winter) bathroom during the colder months and keep it in a three-season porch or outside during the warm months. It isn’t misted during the winter, but I sneak in a watering (not soaking) every month. The only water it gets in the summer is regular misting and an occasional rain. I hope this helps someone. (Aberdeen, S.D.)

A: Thanks for the information. I always enjoy getting information on horticultural stuff I know very little or nothing about. I’m sure what you said will be of some use to beginning orchid growers. Isn’t it irritating that sometimes people who seem disinterested in growing plants have the best luck? Thanks again!

 

Q: Do you or your readers have any information on growing Japanese maples in zone 4? I know they are meant for zone 5 or higher, but I’m really intrigued by them. I’ve ordered a red Japanese maple from the Arbor Day Society. If nothing else, I plan to grow it in a pot and keep it in my three-season porch over winter. I’m mainly concerned about winter protection. Any help would be appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: Winter protection will be a challenge. You can try locating it in a protected area on your property and completely covered during winter. The plant needs to be established in a planting site where it can stay and not be confined to a container that is moved in and out during the seasonal changes. If anybody has other suggestions, I will post their comments.

 

Q: I purchased a majesty palm about two weeks ago. I have noticed some yellowing and tip burn on some of the lower leaves. I also see three new shoots growing. I would like to know how to care for this as a houseplant (many have told me it can’t be done). I mist it twice a day, water it two or three times a week and have a vaporizer in the room for humidity. It sits in a west-facing window. Can the palm be placed outside when the weather permits? (e-mail reference)

A: You are overwatering your palm. Lower your watering rate to once a week or less. Go to my Web site on houseplant care at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1123w.htm. You will find loads of information on the site that should help you. Yes, you can summer it outdoors.

 

Q: Last June, I received a spiderette as a gift. It is large and in a plastic hanging pot. I have it hanging in a window. Should I keep it there? It has some brown tips on the ends. Could the browning be caused by too much sunlight? How long will it take the plant to mature and produce babies? (e-mail reference)

A: You might get some spiderettes this spring. Keep it in the window because it responds to day length changes. Go to my Web site on spider plant care at
www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/houseplnts/spider.htm. Any questions you have on the culture of this plant will be answered. Enjoy!

 

Q: I have four weeping willows and have noticed the trees have boring, white larva, which causes the tree to loose leaves and weep a white substance from the holes. What can I use to control the larva? I understand the problems with willows, but don’t mind tending to them. (e-mail reference)

A: Contact a local International Society of Arboriculture arborist to help you. The material that controls borers is a restricted-use pesticide and only can be applied by qualified individuals. You need to get on this as soon as possible so the treatment is scheduled at the right time for best control.

 

Q: I have been working with an indoor angel wing begonia for 10 years. I took a slip from my sister-in-law’s plant, which flowered abundantly. Mine has not flowered. From what I have read, the plant grows to about 3 feet tall and must dry out before watering. This is what confuses me. One of the stems on my plant is nearly 7 feet tall. It grows like crazy, but never flowers. I have it in a northeast window. On one Web site, I was told it liked very sunny or high-light conditions. On another Web site, I am told it blooms in the shade. I have been using a dry-blooming plant fertilizer, but still no blooms. I love the flowers that are supposed to be on the plant. Could you help me? (e-mail reference)

A: Angel wing begonias can be frustrating! It should be kept away from hot, dry situations or cold, drafty locations, especially at night. Do not overwater. The only sun it should get is early morning or early evening. I don’t know why your plant is not blooming. Try cutting it back or not fertilizing as much. It sounds like you are doing everything correctly, so it should bloom this spring. If it is a source of frustration for you, get rid of it and try another plant. Life is too short to be uptight about a plant not flowering!

 

Q: I have two spider plants my niece’s mom gave me in September. I recently cut off five babies. I put one in soil and the rest in water. The two main plants are growing in water. I would like to keep them in water. Will they live for a long time this way? A fun note; The plants survived a plane ride from Florida to my home in Missouri. (e-mail reference)

A: Spider plants can stay in the water for a long time. Eventually, you will have to add some water-soluble fertilizer. Make sure it is diluted, not full strength. Depending on the trace elements in your water, the plants eventually may suffer from micronutrient imbalances and succumb to it. You have set yourself up for a plant care challenge by growing the plants in water. A water culture is less forgiving of mistakes.

 

Q: I was hoping you could help me with my calla lily. I’ve successfully grown many other flowers, but this plant has thrown me for a loop! It was in bloom when I received it on Valentine’s Day. Now both blooms have turned brown and shriveled up. Is it safe or advisable to cut off the bloom stalks? In addition, a few of the leaves are turning yellow and wilting, while there are four new leaves shooting up. How do I know when it is time to repot? What is the best type of soil? (e-mail reference)

A: Many calla lily owners try to keep their plants growing all year, with little luck. In order to get it to flower, allow the plant to dry down and stay that way for about two months after flowering. After the two months, take it out of the container, shake off the soil, repot and slowly increase watering. Before new flowers fully develop, decrease the amount of water, but return to freely watering the plant as the flowers open up.

 

Q: I bought a house with yellow roses behind the house. I want to keep them, but they are spreading like wildfire all over the yard. How can I stop the roses from spreading? (e-mail reference)

A: A physical barrier inserted into the soil is probably your best bet. A plastic barrier can be purchased that goes down about 6 inches. In some cases, Ryerson steel edging is used. The plants are beautiful, but also invasive!

 

Q: We take care of a ficus tree at our school. Recently, the leaves stated falling off. They are turning yellow at the tips or around the whole edge of the leaf. It is developing new leaves, but they are curling up and turning brown. We have noticed little brown spots on the branches of the tree. We picked most of them off. They look like a little, brown wart. The tree also has been leaking sap. We have tried spraying it with a general insecticide, but it isn’t working. We have changed the potting soil. It was doing great until we took it outside to water it. Since then, it has had these spots. (e-mail reference)

A: It sounds like an infestation of San Jose scale, or scale of a similar characteristic. Once infested, these pests are very difficult to control. Try to locate where these pests are attached to the plant. If they are concentrated in the upper part of the tree, you can control them by cutting off and destroying the branches. If the entire tree is infested, then it would be wise to dispose of the plant.

 

Q: Is there a pear tree that you would recommend for the northern valley near Grand Forks? (e-mail reference)

A: I’ve had bad luck with pear trees, but that doesn’t mean that everyone does! I would suggest that you contact Steve Sagaser, the Grand Forks County horticulturist, to see if he or any of his master gardeners in the area have had any luck growing edible pears. He can be reached at (701) 780-8229.

 

Q: I have a line of African violets along the north window of my apartment. The violets are watered twice a week from the bottom. The topsoil usually is dry. The terra cotta is growing colonies of filmy, fuzzy, white mold. How can I fight the mold while retaining the humidity violets love? (e-mail reference)

A: Try using a fungicide. It can be obtained at any local garden supply store. Using a broad-spectrum fungicide that contains sulfur, such as a Bordeaux mixture, is a good starting point. Some folks have claimed that medicinal mouthwashes also will control mold. I can’t personally say if that is true, so I’ll stick with the plant fungicide suggestion.

 

Q: I have a problem with a substance on the soil of my houseplants. I was advised to spray the soil with a fungus gnat spray. After doing that, I noticed that the bottom leaves of my jade are turning yellow and falling off. So far, I have lost three leaves and two more are yellow. Could the spray be causing the problem? I haven’t watered the plant for some time because as I was told that my soil problem is caused by overwatering. This is the first time that I have lost leaves. (e-mail reference)

A: The spray could have caused the problem if it was in a pressurized container with the carrier material at a lower temperature than the surrounding air. Water jade plants regularly during periods of active growth. Cut down on the watering during the cooler, darker winter months. I would suggest that you check out the Web site on jade plants at www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/houseplnts/jade.htm. There is bound to be information there that will be helpful.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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