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April 28, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: Do you have a list of garden varieties that do well in this area? (Napoleon, N.D.)

A: There is a lot of information on the Hortiscope Web site at www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/contents.htm. Visit the site and explore all the links to other sites.

 

Q: I was given a schefflera a few years ago during a hospital stay. It gets morning sun in my kitchen in the winter and on the porch during the summer. The problem is that it is growing out and over the pot, but not up! It’s beautiful and thick, but if you stand directly over it, you can see the soil and base branches. It’s probably a foot tall, but 3 1/2 feet wide and getting bigger. I now need to replant it. Is there any way to get it to grow upwards? (e-mail reference)

A: Stake it and then try to remember to rotate the plant when the sun is coming from a single direction. You also can correct the problem by placing a grow light directly above the plant to encourage it to grow in a vertical orientation. The plant also would benefit from being summered outdoors after the danger of frost is past and brought indoors before any cold weather moves in at the end of summer.

 

Q: I have a spider plant that is several years old. I recently placed the plant in an east-facing window. The plant now is doing very well. In fact, it is growing faster and healthier than it has in years. However, the other day I was stunned to discover that the outside of the clay pot is coated with a very sticky substance that seems to be emanating from the plant. It starts at the soil line and seems to drip or seep over and through the lip of the pot. The plant does not have bugs or flies. Could you please tell me what this sticky, almost nectarlike stuff is? (e-mail reference)

A: In 99.44 percent of the time, the sticky substance is termed “honeydew,” which comes from feeding insects. These could be aphids, mealybugs, scale or spider mites. Even though your plant is growing well, this feeding eventually will take its toll on the plant. I encourage you to examine the plant carefully to see if you can find anything resembling a piercing-sucking insect or a spider mite (there would be fine webbing). Once discovered, you can control the problem through applications of insecticidal soap spray or simply dip the plant’s foliar into a solution of the same material. Notice I said 99.44 percent of the time, not 100 percent. This means there is an outside chance the plant has hydathodes (microscopic openings) on the leaf tips that are exuding excessive “sap” from all the vigor you are describing. If that is the case, then this will subside with a slowdown in vigor. You can help slow it down somewhat by backing off on the watering and fertilizing.

 

Q: How do I take a cutting from a schefflera and get it to grow? Does it have to root first or can I just replant? (e-mail reference)

A: There are a couple of ways to propagate this plant. You can do it through tip cuttings using bottom heat in the media or through air layering. For information on how to do both, visit my Web site at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257w.htm.

 

Q: You give wonderful help! I just read about jade maladies, but didn’t find mine. This began when a perfectly old (15 or more years) jade plant accidentally was left outside last fall. The temperature dropped to the 35- to 40-degree range. I brought the plant in and noticed the leaves had dark gray/black stippling on them. I thought these leaves had cold damage, so I let them drop and waited for new foliage. However, the new leaves quickly get this same stippling, followed by deep pockmarks. The leaves eventually dry and fall off. Luckily, this plant is an optimist and continues to grow new leaves. (e-mail reference)

A: Does the problem happen to all of the emerging leaves? If so, then the root system probably is damaged. What you may need to do is take cuttings off the plant and see if they will develop healthy tissue from that point on. Of course, take the cuttings from the healthiest stems/foliage as possible. As sensitive as the aerial part of a plant may be to cold temperatures, the root system is even more so. I know this doesn’t sound like much of a solution, but I don’t know what else it could be.

 

Q: I’ve had a Christmas cactus for about four years. The second year I had it, the outer leaves turned a light purple-pink (the color of its flower). The base leaves are still green, but fades into a light green-white to purple. The leaves have been that way ever since. It flowers well and seems to be doing OK. I’ve never fertilized it. Could that be the problem? (e-mail reference)

A: You are seeing the magic of plant color expression based on a stress factor, which is probably caused by the lack of certain nutrients. Many times the coloration you describe is due to the breakdown of chloroplasts and the expression of anthocyanin and xanthophyll. Anthocyanin is a flavonoid. A major function of anthocyanin is to provide color to most flowers and fruits. The colors can help attract pollinating animals to the flowers and animals that will help disperse the seeds. Anthocyanin also is thought to help protect the leaves from ultraviolet radiation, but some botanists think that may not be true for all plant species. Anthocyanin also is thought to deter herbivores in some species. Xanthophyll is a carotenoid. The main xanthophyll in leaves is lutein. Xanthophyll is a structural component of the light harvesting antenna in chloroplasts. They function as accessory pigments for harvesting light at wavelengths that chlorophyll cannot and then transfer the light energy to chlorophyll. They also absorb excess light energy and dissipate it to avoid damage in what is termed the xanthophyll cycle. The xanthophyll zeaxanthin appears to have a role in sensing blue light, which is involved in stomata opening and in phototropism. All said, your fertilization may “erase” the coloration that you describe. Make sure the plant is not too pot bound, which could result in the roots not taking up adequate nutrients.

 

Q: I have a mature partridge cactus that has snapped off at the roots (the pot was knocked over). I have tried to get the plant to reroot using growth hormone, but it has started to rot at the base. Any idea how I can save this plant? It still has maintained its turgidity and looks quite healthy everywhere else! (e-mail reference)

A: Try making a fresh cut and allow it to “cure” for a few days before attempting to root it in a sandy/peat medium. Keep it barely moist. This may work for you, I hope. It often does with other cacti.

 

Q: I have been interested in your discussion regarding amaryllis plants. I thought they always rebloomed. I have several that bloom every year. After the last frost in the spring, I plant them in my garden and water when needed. I dig them up in the fall and let the tops dry down. I store them in my fruit room until after Christmas, when I feel the need for color in my home. I pot them and they usually grow blossom shoots within 10 days. This year I forgot them, but I potted them a week ago and they already are sending up shoots. I also have some new ones starting from the little bulbs that form on the bottoms. I have heard that they need a lot of fertilizer while in the house, so I give them Shultz when watering them weekly. I thought I’d comment on them because they are a beautiful flower. I have had five to seven blooms on a stalk and a couple of times a plant has sent two stalks up to bloom. (e-mail reference)

A: You are doing what is recommended. Everybody else claims to follow the same basic procedure, but mostly to no avail, as you have read. Thanks for giving me a success story to publish. I’m sure it will breed inspiration and despair at the same time!

 

Q: Is there a natural sprout inhibitor that can be used on caragana seeds? (e-mail reference)

A: None that I am aware of that wouldn’t have a broadleaf herbicidal effect on everything else.

 

Q: I just wanted to write about my experience with tulips. I also have some questions. I bought six bulbs from a local hardware store. At the time, I did not know how, when or where to plant them. I planted three of them in my box and saved the others. I stored them incorrectly, so I lost half of them, which made me start to do some research. I read on a Web site that they have to be in a fridge for 90 days, depending on where you live (California). Since I already had planted them, I decided to start watering the plants with ice and ice-cold water. Luckily, that worked. Now I have three beautiful tulips. Now for my questions. I would like to harvest them, as in putting them in a vase. Is there a procedure for this and what do I use to cut them? I’ve read on your Web site that I can get seeds from them. How do I do that? I don’t understand some of the gardener’s language, such as deadhead, on your Web site. Can you explain it to me in plain English? (e-mail reference)

A: Deadheading is simply the removal of the spent flower, by hand, with a pruner or a knife. Obtaining seed from tulips is possible if you allow the flower to go through a complete life cycle. The little knob left on the top of the flower stem is the source of seed. Allow it to remain on the plant until the foliage yellows and then harvest. Tulip flowers are not known for their longevity. Cut them in the early morning while the flowers are young and still closed, but have developed full color. Get them in water as soon as possible and use a preservative (available at florist shops). If you get more than a week out of them, let me know. The way to extend the bloom is to move them into a cooler or refrigerator when they are not being viewed, such as when you are sleeping. Congratulations on your success with ice water!

 

Q: For the first time, I purchased an amaryllis for Christmas. It was advertised as a pink- blooming plant. It had two main stalks and one small stalk. The first two stalks produced four beautiful white blossoms and the third stalk finally opened with two blooms. It really showed off, with 10 blooms in all! (e-mail reference)

A: Congratulations! Who cares if the color is a little off? It sounds like it was a photographic event! Enjoy and thanks for sharing!

 

Q: I just received 25 cottonwood trees from my state’s conservation department. They are wrapped in some nice packaging. How long will these trees survive in this packaging? What do I need to do to ensure their survival before I plant them? Can I plant them and then transplant them after two to three years? Will they survive at their new location? Any help in these areas will be appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: The trees can stay in the packaging for a few weeks, assuming they are kept refrigerated or in a near-freezing location. Yes, they can be transplanted successfully, if it is done correctly. In the meantime, don’t allow them to dry out. Get them into the ground before the buds break.

 

Q: We moved into a new home and are ready to plant trees. Our septic system is in the back yard. What tree will do well within 20 feet or less of the drainfield? I was planning on a clump birch. If that tree works, can I buy it bare-root? (Davenport, N.D.)

A: Plant the birch because it is about the most innocuous tree you can plant near a septic system. I never have seen a bare-root clump birch available. I doubt they are.

 

Q: Two years ago, I got a healthy yucca plant. The bottom leaves started withering and turning yellow/brown. New leaves still were growing from the top, but the bottom ones were dying faster than the new ones were coming in. Last summer, I put the dead plant outside and a new shoot came out from the bottom and was doing very well. When winter came, I brought it in the house and now the bottom leaves again are starting to die. This year I got a plant that looks like it comes from a family similar to the yucca because it has large, wide leaves branching off the central stem. The same thing has started happening to the new plant. People at the nursery say it’s due to overwatering, but I haven’t watered the plants in months. Both plants get a good amount of indirect light from north-facing windows. Do you have any advice? (e-mail reference)

A: Have the interior air quality checked during winter. These plants are the miner’s canary because they tell you if something is wrong with the indoor environment, especially if you are not overwatering. That’s the best guess I can arrive at with the information provided.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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