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NDSU Agriculture CommunicationArchive

May 12, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I purchased a musa plant from a supermarket, but there were no instructions with it. It seems happy at the moment. I am watering it and the plant has new leaves. Is there anything else I should be doing? I will begin to feed it in a couple of weeks. (e-mail reference)

A: A musa is the botanical description of a banana plant. I only can make general recommendations because I don’t know what species you have. Keep it warm, which means a temperature above 60 degrees during the winter months. Give it as much bright light as possible, even some direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist and frequently mist the leaves. Repot when necessary during the spring or summer. In essence, treat the plant as if it were growing in a tropical environment. Generally, if these species produce fruit, it is inedible.

Q: Are spider plants poisonous to beta fish? I work at a bank. For decoration, we have several beta fish bowls around the office. I decided to put spider babies in the bowls to watch them grow. The fish seemed to love it, but this morning when I came to work, one of the fish was dead. Keep in mind that these fish are 2 years old or older, so I’m not sure if it was the plants that killed the fish. (e-mail reference)

A: No, the plants are not poisonous. Keep in mind that roots give off carbon dioxide and use up oxygen, just the opposite of leaves. A small pump bubbling air into the water would benefit the roots and keep the fish around for a longer time. Most likely, the fish expired of old age, exacerbated by the low oxygen level.

Q: While hiking with my sons last fall, they pulled the tops of what I believe to be marsh grass plums off the stalks. We want to know if the plums are the seeds. Can we plant them in our yard? How would we do it? (e-mail reference)

A: Sorry, I don’t know and none of my references has marsh grass listed for propagation purposes. Perhaps a reader will know and pass the information on to me. If that happens, I’ll certainly pass on the information.

Q: While looking for symptoms of overwatering, I came across your Web site and thought I’d get your advice. I bought my first potted houseplant, a calla lily, several weeks ago. I’ve been watering it regularly and fertilizing it once a week. As the leaves began to form, I noticed some clear spots. In addition, the edges of the leaves are starting to wilt. I assumed this meant I was overwatering. I’ve cut back, but there is no change. I’d appreciate your advice because I don’t want my little flower to die. (e-mail reference)

A: I also don’t want it to die! From your description, it sounds like the plant is just starting to grow, so back off on the watering and fertilizing. Allow the top two-thirds of the potting mix to dry before watering again. As growth develops, increase the watering until the plant is in full leaf. After that, soak it on a regular basis to keep the plant moist. Once the plant is in full leaf, apply a diluted solution of houseplant fertilizer every two weeks. When the plant stops flowering, reduce the watering and eliminate the fertilizer. Stop the watering when the leaves become discolored and withered. Allow the plant to stay in a rest period for 60 or so days and then start watering again as described above. Be sure to provide the plant with plenty of bright light when in leaf.

Q: I have seven juniper bushes in my front yard that I hate and would like to have removed. What is the easiest way to remove them? Can I tie a chain around the base of the bushes and pull them out with a truck? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: You can use a truck to pull out the bushes, but be sure you don’t tear up your turf doing it! If you live in the South where the root system can grow all year long, you might be surprised at how extensive the root system of this plant can be! Because I couldn’t use a truck, I chopped some out of my front yard a few years ago using a Dutchman’s hoe. It was backbreaking work!

Q: My exterior sanseveria plants have been thriving under the same growing conditions for eight years. Almost overnight, many of the stalks lost their chlorophyll and are dotted with green or yellow spots. My landscaper thinks it may be a fungus, but he never has seen this happen. The stalks appear a bit less rigid than the healthy ones. What is wrong and what can be done to save them? (e-mail reference)

A: I’m not sure what the problem is. The plants may be pot-bound and not getting enough nutrients or rot developed. Try dividing the plant at the crown and toss out anything that appears rotted or take leaf cuttings from healthy stock and root them.

Q: I am potting some flowers for my garden wedding in July. I am carrying arranged callas and would love to have some potted lilies for an accent, but I never have been able to keep them very well. I water often, using water from my fish tank (the rest of my flowers love the bacteria-filled water). I wonder if callas don’t last very long before they go dormant. If not, what would you suggest? The garden is full of lilies and I am using 12-inch terra cotta pots that I would love to have overflowing with flowers. (e-mail reference)

A: You have my daughter’s name and she also is of marrying age! I would stay with the lilies and daylilies. I’m sure you won’t be disappointed. Calla lilies may or may not make a good show for you, but that can be solved at the last minute by purchasing some already in flower from a local florist. For “overflowing flower pots,” try wave petunias. Nothing I’ve seen comes close to their ability to flower heavily and flow over pots. I have a photo of my Amanda standing next to a container 7 feet off the ground with a wave petunia trailing all the way to the ground! Additionally, we grow them on the NDSU campus as hanging baskets. They look beautiful!

Q: I just purchased a pot of fully bloomed tulips. They are beautiful, but I don’t know anything about tulips. When should I plant them outside, how far apart and do they multiply each year? If so, when can I separate them? (e-mail reference)

A: Congratulations on purchasing a beautiful plant. To get them to last as long as possible, store them in a cool location when you are not admiring them. You could put them outside on the north side of your house if you don’t have any wandering rabbits. Once they have finished flowering, remove the spent blooms to keep them from setting seed and allow the foliage to turn completely yellow. Dig where you want them to go and place the bulbs. Remove the completely yellowed foliage. Be sure the tips of the bulbs are 6 inches below the soil surface. Cover the bulbs and give them plenty of water. They should come up next spring.

Q: I just purchased a hydrangea plant with several beautiful, blue blooms. When should I plant it outside? Does it require special care? Can I separate it into two plants before I plant it outside? (e-mail reference)

A: This may be a florist hydrangea and not hardy enough for outside planting, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. Try planting it outside after the danger of frost is past. Use a soil mix rich in sphagnum peat moss. To maintain acidity, fertilize once a month with aluminum sulfate. If it comes back next year, you’ve got it made!

Q: We purchased a home with a large pin oak in front. We have noticed some of the lower branches are growing horizontally and then reach up to get the sunlight. Is this putting too much stress on the tree? Should we consider trimming these branches? (e-mail reference)

A: What you are seeing is normal pin oak growth. If it will make you feel better pruning off the lower branches, then do so. It won’t make a difference to the tree. I assure you it isn’t struggling to get to the sunlight.

Q: I live in zone 4. I recently purchased dormant clematis roots and am storing them in a cool place. When should I plant them? My thinking is that perennials go dormant and live in the cold ground all winter, so I should be able to plant the roots right now. Is this true or do I have some crazy idea? You always have given me such good answers to my questions. (e-mail reference)

A: Clematis can be planted as soon as the frost is out of the ground. Glad my past answers have been helpful. Thank you!

Q: In 2001, we moved into a new office, so the manager’s wife brought in a plant cutting, placed it in the window sill and there it stayed for about 18 months. It never grew in size, but it did bloom. Even though that little stub never grew, it was very healthy looking. Every morning there was a swallow left in my coffee cup (no cream, no sugar), so I began to pour the leftover coffee in the plant. The little plant began to grow and now we have repotted it. We have grown six other plants from that once stubby little plant. The plant is beautiful and everyone comments on it as they walk into our office. We think the only reason it doesn’t look exactly like those in garden centers and florist shops is that ours likes coffee (no cream, no sugar). What is in coffee that would make the difference in growth? (e-mail reference)

A: Coffee is a rich source of most nutrients needed for plant growth, all in trace amounts. The fact that the coffee has gone through a hot-water treatment with the grounds causes the nutrients to leach into the liquid that we drink. Adding coffee to the soil on a regular basis provided nutrients for healthy growth.

Q: Can you root spiderettes in dirt or is it best to start them in water? (e-mail reference)

A: They can root in dirt or water. Using soil will give you a more adaptable root. Using water will get them rooting faster, but sometimes plants rooted in water have a problem making the transfer to soil.

Q: I was hoping you could help me out with a decision. I hope to relandscape my yard this spring, so I need to choose a tree to plant in my front yard. Right now, there is a diseased European mountain ash and a dying spruce in the front yard. I want to get rid of both and plant a new tree. I’d like a smaller sized tree similar to the mountain ash. I’d also prefer a tree that will attract birds. I was thinking of a chokecherry, until I saw that they probably will become diseased. I thought of a small variety of birch, but since my two neighbors already have these trees in their front yard, I want to do something different. I have a newly planted maple tree on the berm, so I hope to avoid doubling up on that. Do you have any recommendation for another tree that fits that size, fares well in a North Dakota winter, is generally hardy and has a decent chance of avoiding disease? (e-mail reference)

A: Consider planting a Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulate) or an amur chokecherry (Prunus maackii). Both are cold hardy and tolerant of North Dakota weather conditions. Given good drainage, they will reward the owner with outstanding beauty.

Q: I tried going to the xeriscaping address on the Web that you gave us in your column, but I couldn’t get anything. Was the address in the paper correct? (e-mail reference)

A: I don’t know what was published because I didn’t get a chance to see the column. Here it is, right from the horse’s mouth! You will find the information at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h957w.htm. It's guaranteed to get you there!

Q: As you know, it has been very cold here in central Minnesota. Until recently, we’ve had nighttime temperatures in the mid- to low 20s. I have a northblue blueberry bush that was loaded with buds. I have been covering it at night, but I forgot one night. Can I expect any fruit or did it spoil my chances? I have several plum trees in the same situation, no blossoms, but they are budding. (e-mail reference)

A: It all depends on how low the temperature went in your locality, the nutrient status of the plant, if the bush and trees had softened up too much during the brief warm spell and the moisture status of the plants and surrounding soil. In other words, I don’t know. If there is no fruit on the blueberry or plums, the weather certainly can be blamed! I think you will see some fruit this year on both.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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