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NDSU Agriculture CommunicationArchive

May 19, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: The tulips I planted last fall are blooming at ground level without a stem. What is causing this? (e-mail reference)

A: The tulips could be planted too deep, are dwarf forms or were damaged by overly wet or compacted soil.

 

Q: I purchased four groups of tulips at a local store. The flowers are beautiful. On the pot it says the tulips should be allowed to bloom indoors and then planted outdoors. What is the best way to do that? (e-mail reference)

A: Allow the foliage to yellow in the pot. When the foliage can be pulled off with a gentle tug, then plant them where you want them to come up next year. It couldn’t be simpler!

 

Q: What is mulch and where can I get some? (e-mail reference)

A: Mulch is usually organic material, such as shredded bark, bark chips, peat moss or weathered compost. You can get mulch at almost any store that sells garden supplies. Keep it away from the trunk of the plant to prevent disease problems.

 

Q: Could you please direct me to a book about caring for calla lilies? I have 48 of them of different sizes, but I’m not sure if I am caring for them properly. (e-mail reference)

A: I don’t know of a specialty book on the care of calla lilies. There are several good houseplant books on the market that include calla lily care. I would suggest browsing through a bookstore to see which book has the most complete information for your purposes. One of the most useful books that I frequently refer to is “Indoor Plants” by Halina Heitz. If I could have just one houseplant book on my shelves, this would be it.

 

Q: I have a peace lily. Is it harmful to humans if you inhale the pollen or eat it? (e-mail reference)

A: It is not listed as such in any of my poisonous plant references, but why take a chance if you are worried? Simply remove the pollen-bearing part of the plant. An added benefit, the flower will last longer.

 

Q: My daughter would like to be married in August and wants to have lilacs in her wedding. Any ideas on where I can get lilacs in August? (e-mail reference)

A: You might try someplace where there are mountains, such as Colorado. My wife and I saw lilacs blooming in the Colorado Rockies in July at about the 8,000 feet. I have no other suggestions.

 

Q: I planted tulip bulbs last fall and the foliage came up normally this spring. They have started to bloom, but the flower has no stem. It looks like the bloom is sitting on top of the soil. Is this a disease or a genetic oddball? (e-mail reference)

A: It’s not a disease I’m familiar with, so it must be some kind of genetic mutation.

 

Q: My cactus has some light brown spots on it (almost like scales). If I rub them with my fingernail, they come off and what’s underneath is paler compared with the rest of the plant. I don’t know what kind of cactus it is (sorry). Would you have any idea what this is and how I can treat it? (e-mail reference)

A: It probably is scale. There are crawler stages and adult stages. What you are seeing is the adult stage with the protective covering. You might want to get some horticultural oil and Q-tips. Dip the end of the Q-tip in the oil and dab it on the individual adults. Be sure to hit them all. This oil kills by eliminating the insect’s air supply.

 

Q: I have always been a plant killer. I seem to have a black thumb. A friend gave me cuttings from her spider plants and told me not to worry because I couldn’t kill them. She was right, it’s been almost two years and I have so many beautiful plants. I grew them in water until the roots were about the same size as the plant. When the roots were almost growing out of the water, I decided it was time to dare the dirt. I started with one plant. Shortly after potting it, I left it outside and its leaves froze. I just knew I had killed it! I brought it inside and left it alone, except for watering it once a week. It had five leaves when it froze, but in less than five months it’s about 50 times larger and beautiful. However, it has never created babies. I repotted it about two months ago because the roots were growing out of the drainage holes. It is still growing great. I have since planted all my spiders in pots. They are doing great. The second one I planted has 20 to 25 leaves and suddenly started growing a huge, round stem. In less than four weeks, the stem produced about 17 babies with white flower buds on the end and it just keeps growing. I am not sure what to do with the plant or the babies. When I started thinking I might really be able to keep it alive, I started looking for information about the brown tips on the leaves. While adding water to my fish tank, I thought I might have an idea. I purchased Chlor-Out for removing chlorine from the water in the fish tank. I now use it every time I water my plants, even with Miracle-Gro. It almost has taken care of all the new growth having brown tips. I thought this information might help others. Thanks and happy growing! (e-mail reference)

A: Good for you! Your information will be a big help to our readers. The plant you thought died because of frost damage likely will produce spiderettes this spring or summer.

 

Q: I read your material about lillies. Most of the questions I had were answered. Thank you so much! However, I do have a few more questions. I bought what seems to be a mini calla lilly with purple and white blossoms, so I’m guessing it’s a hybrid of some sort. I am wondering if having this “mini” lilly will affect how I care for it. I live in an apartment with north-facing windows. It is quite bright because there are three large windows. I read that east- and west- facing windows are recommended. Will this be a problem? (e-mail reference)

A: Glad the column has helped you! The miniature calla will not require any different care from the standard varieties. The north windows should not be a problem.

 

Q: I read your material about cactus plants with great interest. Since my plant has gently scalloped edges, I am assuming it is an Easter variety. I purchased it several years ago. It is healthy, but has never bloomed. Here is my dilemma. About three months ago, I moved it to a little greenhouse. The plants in the greenhouse get 18 hours of light a day. The cactus went through a huge growth spurt. It has a lot of new leaf growth and little four-sided growths that look like new stems. Considering that I have subjected the plant to an artificial summer, can I soon put it back in a room where it will continue to get at least 12 1/2 hours of light through the rest of spring and summer and then cover it to force buds for Thanksgiving? (e-mail reference)

A: If you want it to flower by next Thanksgiving, there is no “sin” in making it do so. It sounds like a beautiful plant, so even if it doesn’t flower by Thanksgiving, it certainly would be a handsome devil to look at and you could contemplate it flowering for you by Easter.

 

Q: I have two Christmas cactus plants. The soil became so dry that it pulled away from the side of the pot. I repotted the plants in soils used for succulents and cactus. I watered the plants thoroughly after four days. The plants are near an east window and have done well up to this point. Now the leaves feel thin, shriveled and drop off easily. Did I kill it? (e-mail reference)

A: You may have repotted the plants too deep. Pull some of the soil back. Remember, it was doing fine in the scrawny soil it had, even if you didn’t like the looks of it.

 

Q: Could you help me with a problem I am having with my tulips? They came up, but the leaves are very short. The blossom stems look like they are at ground level. Any suggestions? (e-mail reference)

A: It appears to be an environmental issue because there have been several questions concerning this problem. The problem could be too much rainfall or some other environmental event. There is nothing you can do about it except watch if the bulbs will grow out of this situation.

 

Q: I have had grapevines for about 10 years. Until two years ago, they produced good crops. In recent years, I get adequate vine growth and many florets that begin to develop into grape clusters. However, when the grapes get to 1/8 inch in diameter, the grapes turn hard, black and do not develop into edible grapes. Last year, the vines produced minimal edible grapes. I added superphosphate to the root system, but it did not help. (e-mail reference)

A: It could be fruit rot or botrytis bunch rot. An on-site collection of the grapes and perhaps a lab culture will be needed to make a positive identification. Without knowing the pathogen, I would suggest starting a spray program using a bordeaux mixture as the plants begin to show new growth. Spray again on a two-week basis. I would encourage you to get an application on the grape clusters before they close to be sure the fungicide hits all sides of the individual grapes. This is a generic recommendation that should provide some protection. It’s like a doctor telling you to take “two aspirins,” hoping it will take care of the problem.

 

Q: My ficus plants tend to ooze a sticky substance. It’s not particularly visible, but I can feel the stickiness on the floor surrounding the plants. Can you tell me what is causing this? Is there anything I can do? (e-mail reference)

A: The problem is caused by spider mites. If you look very carefully at the leaves, you might see fine webbing between the leaves at the base. You also should see very small stippling on the foliage. If none of this can be verified, then the problem has to be scale insects, which often blend in with the stems of the plant. They produce a small shell over their bodies after they insert their stylets into the plant tissue. This covering makes it very difficult to control them with insecticides. You can try using Fungicide 3, which is a neem tree product. It has fungicidal, insecticidal and miticidal properties. Be sure to follow the directions on the label.

 

Q: I want to grow grapes for eating and making a few gallons of wine. My soil is fairly heavy. What varieties would work for this area? I am more interested in making wine than eating grapes. Should I mix sand or anything else in the planting hole? I would assume that when they begin to bear fruit, I would need to cover the grapes to minimize bird damage. Can you give me some planting instructions? I always enjoy reading your column. (Sioux Falls, S.D.)

A: Thanks for the compliment! I would prefer to send you complete information through the mail, so send me your mailing address. Adding sand to heavy soil will turn it into brick unless the volume ratio is at least 8-to-1 (sand/soil).

 

Q: I have a row of emerald arborvitae on my property line. After a bad ice storm this winter, I noticed several were bent over nearly to the ground. Should I try to straighten them or give up and have them replaced? (e-mail reference)

A: Go ahead and straighten them as long as the trunk is not broken or frozen. If you are staking the arborvitae to straighten them, remove the stakes after new growth is observed. They should stay upright after that.

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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