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June 2, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I bought two fairly healthy, small jade plants. The only care tips provided were to give them lots of light and very little water. I’ve set them on a south window sill, so they will get plenty of sunlight. How often should I water them and how often do I fertilize, if at all? Also, I would really appreciate it if you could tell me about any potential pathogens or pests typical to these succulents and how to deal with such problems. (e-mail reference)

A: Go to my Web site at www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/houseplnts/jade.htm. The site addresses the care of jade plants, which should satisfy your need. You will find more than 80 questions and answers relating to the care of jade plants. If you still have any questions, get back to me.

 

Q: We live out in the country and have a big propane tank. It is near the back door, which is the door everyone comes to because it is more convenient. What would you recommend to at least partially hide the tank? Some fast-growing plants or shrubs would be wonderful, but evergreens also would work. (e-mail reference)

A: Think very carefully if you really want to landscape around the tank. Trust me, sometimes the attempt is more of an eyesore than the tank! I would not plant vines. If the company ever had to get to the tank in an emergency, having plant growth over it could cause delay problems. Plant some perennial/annual bedding plants around the base so people will look at the beautiful flowers and ignore the tank.

 

Q: I want to remove a row of aging poplars and apply Roundup to the stumps to kill the suckers. The trees are close together and have extensive root systems. Will Roundup affect the smaller poplars or other trees in the vicinity? (e-mail reference)

A: Roundup won’t work. You need to purchase a stump killer, which should be available at a garden supply store in your community. Such products are specific to the type of tree stump they are applied to and do not affect adjacent trees.

 

Q: I have an ivy plant that was given to me in a container. I repotted into the same size pot. Now it is not growing. The leaves are lighter than they were. Should I repot it in a smaller pot using Miracle Gro? I want to save the plant. (e-mail reference)

A: If the plant was doing fine in the store container, why repot it? If you haven’t thrown the original container out, replant it in the same pot and give it a shot of Miracle-Gro. If that doesn’t bring it back, nothing will.

 

Q: We have a large, old jade plant with two large trunks growing in a V shape. Can we separate them into two more upright plants? (e-mail reference)

A: You can, as long as the trunks have not grafted together. If they have, you probably will have to sacrifice one of them.

 

Q: The leaves on my gloxinia are turning yellow and dying. You’ve said that this probably means I am overwatering and should let it dry during the winter. Since the winter is now over, is there anything I can do to try to save the plant? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes, continue to allow it to dry down. The plant doesn’t know if it is winter or spring. It is responding to a physiological need, which normally takes place in winter. All you’ve done is extend the time it has remained in leaf after it flowered. Allowing it to dry will give it the rest period needed, which is six to nine weeks. It should recover after that.

 

Q: I had a wonderful plum tree. I used to eat the fruit off the tree and throw the seeds in the bushes. Out of sight, out of mind. Unfortunately, the tree died from, I suspect, a disease. However, guess what came out of the bushes? I have 10 healthy plum trees, but they do not bear fruit. Can I get fruit from these trees? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes, but you need to be patient. They should start bearing fruit at year five or six.

 

Q: You make reference to hosta and slugs going together like peanut butter and jelly, but deer love hosta as well. I never have been able to stop the deer from nibbling away at the plants. I’ve tried several sprays and have found one to be a fairly decent repellent. However, this method can be expensive and doesn’t always work. Several years ago, a since-deceased aunt told me someone she worked for put something in her garden to keep the deer away. Apparently, when the wind blows it makes some sort of noise only the deer can hear. Do you have any idea what she could have been talking about? (e-mail reference)

A: Sorry, but I have no idea. Perhaps one of the readers will know and get back to me. If that happens, I’ll pass it on to you.

 

Q: I have an 8-foot ficus tree that has been in the house since it was only a few feet tall. Can this tree be planted outside? (e-mail reference)

A: If you mean permanently, only if you live in a frost-free zone, such as south Florida, southwest Texas or southern California. Any houseplant will benefit by being moved outdoors for the summer. Be sure to check for bugs before bringing it back inside.

 

Q: I’ve had spider plants for two years. I started with a little plant from a relative’s mother plant. I let it root in water for about six months. (I found creating a little square frame out of thread and chopsticks is a great way to keep the leaves from rotting in the water as it roots.) I finally potted it in soil and watched it grow very quickly. I was thrilled. It started a stalk and grew numerous babies. The plant seemed constricted, so I transplanted it into a slightly larger pot. Since then, many of the babies have died. I have three remaining plants that each have three leaves. The plants have been like that for months. In my research to fix this problem (no answer found yet), I stopped watering because the tips were brown. Before that, I was watering weekly because I have an extremely dry apartment. It has been a week and now the leaves at the center of the mother plant have started to soften, slightly blanch and started to curl lengthwise. Any ideas what might be wrong? The soil is still drying. (e-mail reference)

A: Obviously you did something the plant didn’t like. Pot constriction is not a problem with spider plants because we have three in our house that are thriving that way and have done so for many years. It could be the pot you put it in is not free draining, the soil has something toxic in it or the location is undesirable for the plant’s health. I would suggest that you remove the spiderettes and try to repeat your past success. Root them in water using chopsticks, then transplant them, but this time trim back the roots when you repot. Be sure to use a well-known, commercially available pasteurized potting soil.

 

Q: Are there other options for postemergence crabgrass control in a vegetable garden other than using Treflan? The label gets a little complicated. Are there other concerns beside potatoes (says to plant after application) and what rate would you recommend? (e-mail reference)

A: The label for potatoes says, “Apply after planting, prior to crop emergence or after crops have emerged. Do not cover with treated soil if applied after crops have emerged.” The label also is explicit with the other vegetable crops. Absent is sweet corn. As a “grass,” it is sensitive to applications of Treflan and certainly off-label. Postemergence use is limited to careful spot sprays with Roundup.

 

Q: We have several mature oak trees that are 30 to 40 years old. This past weekend we noticed many woodpecker holes. We purchased this place last summer and occasionally saw woodpeckers and a few old holes. The holes we are seeing are new and quite large. What can we do to prevent more damage? (Battle Lake, Minn.)

A: Oaks and other tree species have evolved over the eons with woodpeckers and sapsuckers, a type of woodpecker. Both obviously have survived and thrived! I know that isn’t what you want to hear, but there are ways to control the bird’s activity. If they habitually are going to the same area on the tree, you can spread Tanglefoot over the area. This will discourage them because they dislike getting their feet sticky. You can hang old aluminum pie tins in the trees or aluminum strips that move in the wind. This tends to frighten them. If you see them in the tree, a sudden loud noise will move them out of the tree. This has to be repeated to be effective. Shooting them is not an option. This species is protected under the Wildlife Protection Act and can result in a hefty fine if you are caught shooting them. You also want to check the holes carefully. If they appear to be going around the tree trunk, then it is probably a sapsucker and the damage should not be anything to worry about on mature oaks. They will seal up with spring growth. If the holes appear to be random, check to be sure you don’t have bark beetles. If you do, the hole would be D-shaped.

 

Q: I would like to know if I can save seeds from an Easter lily plant and have new plants. (e-mail reference)

A: You can, but the new bulblets the plant produces are easier to raise and will grow into a flowering plant faster. Plant the lily outdoors after the danger of frost is past. Unless you live in the coldest place on the planet, it should survive, grow and bloom.

 

Q: I have a large bed of ferns full of weeds and small trees. I have been pulling them, but they keep coming back. What can I do to keep the ferns, but kill everything else? (e-mail reference)

A: Not much that I know of, except dig everything up, pack the ferns in moist sphagnum peat moss and take out what you don’t want in the bed. Once clean, replant the ferns, but make sure they are not carrying any unwanted plants back to the clean bed. It is not fun and there are no chemicals that I know of that are selective, but the procedure I described is very effective.

 

Q: Last fall, the deer raked the bark from our clump birch tree. Since it had a south exposure, I wrapped it for the winter and have just taken the wrap off. One limb has a very deep wound that goes deeper than the first layer of the bark. It is now weeping and covered with insects. What should we do to help the healing? Will it be OK to leave it open and hope for the best with time or does it need some paint/tar or something else to protect it from the elements? We also have pruned a few apple trees. The branches were more than an inch in diameter. Do they need something on them or will they heal by themselves? (Verona, N.D.)

A: In both instances, the trees are best left to heal on their own. The sap flow will not hurt the tree. The insects will be food for insect-eating birds, such as woodpeckers and sapsuckers. Research shows that trees will heal better without any protective covering if they are otherwise healthy. If they are not healthy, a covering will not help.

 

Q: I tried going to the xeriscaping Web address you gave us, but I couldn't get anything. Was the address right in the paper? (Email reference)

A: I don't know what was published because I didn't get chance to see the column. Here is the Web address right from the horse's mouth. It is at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h957w.htm. It is guaranteed that you will get there!

 

Do you have a gardening or houseplant question? Write to Hortiscope, Box 5051, NDSU Extension Service, Fargo, ND 58105 or e-mail to Ron Smith at ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu. Note to e-mail correspondents: please identify your location (city and state) for most accurate recommendations.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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