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July 21, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I hope you can help me. We want to plant some raspberries, but I have been told that raspberry bushes like to spread through their root system. Is that correct? What’s the best way to control it? (e-mail reference)

A: It is true. To keep the bushes from spreading, cut them out as they spread and replant somewhere else if you want them or simply destroy the spreaders. It is a little extra work, but worth it and is something the average person can keep up with if you don’t have too many raspberries!

 

Q: I have several arborvitae lining my patio that have been decimated by deer. It there anything I can do to restore them? (e-mail reference)

A: Just try to keep them healthy. If they are going to recover, they will. Next year spray a deer repellant such as Hinder or Plantskydd to keep away the deer.

 

Q: I recently purchased an aloe vera plant from a gardening center. This is the first aloe plant I have owned. Do I need to repot the plant? If so, do I separate the clusters when I put them in a larger pot and separate the root system or can I just loosen the soil from the current pot and place it in a larger pot? I also have read about taking sprouts and making a new plant. How do I do this? I also would like to use the aloe for medicinal purposes when the occasion arises. What pieces do I cut off for use and how do I cut them? (Grand Forks, N.D.)

A: You have purchased one of the easiest plants on the face of the earth to keep as a houseplant. Keep it in your kitchen or very near it because that is the place where you probably will need it if you are going to use it for medicinal purposes. If an accidental, minor burn should take place, cut off part of a leaf with a scissor or knife and rub it on the affected area. The juice from the leaf will provide instant relief and protect you from infection. Aloe vera plants thrive on being pot-bound. I’ve known aloe plants that never have been repotted in 10 or more years and are doing fine. They easily are propagated, as are other succulents. Divide with a knife one of the offsets and let it cure in the air for a couple of days, then plant. Leaf cuttings also will work this way. Water liberally during the summer. During the winter, shut down the watering to about once or twice a month. That’s about all there is to growing this handy plant! Enjoy.

 

Q: This winter, ice from a storm snapped in half my Colorado blue spruce. If possible, I’d like to save the tree by grafting branches from the same tree to the point where the tree snapped. Does my spruce have a good chance of surviving? Is grafting wishful thinking or would it be better to replace the tree? (e-mail reference)

A: It would be easier to replace the tree. If grafting were easy, everybody would be doing it. It takes years to develop good grafting skills, especially on evergreens.

 

Q: Our son-in-law recently acquired some juneberry bushes from a nursery in Minnesota. Is there anything he can do prior to planting that would protect them from black knot disease that is so prevalent in North Dakota? Any information on planting/maintenance also would be helpful. I continue to depend on your knowledge related to horticulture. Thanks so much for being there for us “amateur gardeners.” (Turtle Lake, N.D.)

A: Black knot is a cherry problem, not a juneberry issue. Keeping birds from getting to the berries before you do will be the big challenge! For juneberry care, go to my Web site: www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/shrub/junebrry.htm. On the site, many questions on juneberry care and culture are answered. I’m glad my information is helpful to you! Thanks.

 

Q: I would love to install a lilac fence that is 30 feet long and 8 feet tall. Will Persian lilacs grow that tall? If I buy them at 3 feet tall now, will they ever get to 8 feet tall? The nursery has Ellen Wilmott lilacs in stock. Do they grow quickly? I live in zone 5. (e-mail reference)

A: I would go for the Ellen Willmott lilacs. It is a double-white cultivar of the common lilac that should provide a beautiful show for you. Everyone gets impatient for plants to grow. Lilacs are not slow growers, but they are not fast growers, either. Healthy plants will have decent growth every year, depending on the conditions existing at the site. Growth that is too fast is more susceptible to insect, disease and environmental problems.

 

Q: I have heard there are certain types of plants that like to grow with rose bushes and actually help them grow better. Any ideas? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes, supposedly there are. What you are referring to is companion planting. This is the principle that one species of plant will attract either beneficial insects that will aid in controlling plant-destructive ones or will provide a scent so that the destructive insect cannot locate the crop to be preyed upon. I would suggest reading “Roses Love Garlic” by Louise Riotte. It is a very interesting and educational read. The book contains useful information for any serious gardeners who are looking to reduce pesticide use in their garden.

 

Q: Two years ago, I activated a well, hoping to cut down on the water bill. Instead of saving, we lost big time. The water tested 2,300 parts sodium chloride and 100 parts sodium. You can imagine what happened. We lost 38 of the 89 arborvitae trees and close to 30 flowering plants. I replaced all the badly burned shrubs. Is there any help for the remaining arborvitae? I’ve been giving them Miracle-Gro. They are coming back, but the bottoms are still bare (where the water was hitting them). (e-mail reference)

A: There is always hope, if they are showing signs of response. Keep up the treatments, but don’t overdo it!

 

Q: I bought a ponderosa pine and was told not to disturb the roots when planting. It is in a wooden basket-type pot. They said to take the bands off and cut off at least the top half or more and leave the rest. It should then decay and not disturb the roots. Is this a good way to plant it? (e-mail reference)

A: It happens all the time and with success, too! If you can peel or pull the sides of the basket back and leave it that way, it also would help. The wood breaks down quickly when it is surrounded by soil.

 

Q: We have a block retaining wall that is 36 inches high. We are looking for something that would cling to the walls or possibly hang over the walls. We want to fill it in as naturally as possible. Hopefully, the plant isn’t too invasive and it can survive our Minnesota climate. We were considering clematis, ivy or climbing roses. What would you suggest? (Prior Lake, Minn.)

A: The Virginia creeper - Parthenocissus quinquefolia - is probably the best bet for what you want.

 

Q: Where can I get winter onions? I think they also are known as Egyptian onions or spreading onions. My neighbors grew them and I was a most appreciative recipient of that early spring treat. The new owners of the property are not gardeners and have destroyed the parent plants. I can recall my neighbor giving me some while there still was snow on the ground. They seem to come up about the same time as tulips, crocuses, etc. (e-mail reference)

A: I’m sorry, but I don’t know! Perhaps a reader will know and inform me so I can pass the information on to you.

 

Q: I recently potted my scindaspus aures in soil that I dislike. How I can get rid of the soil without harming the roots? (e-mail reference)

A: Carefully wash the soil off the roots and immediately repot with the desired soil.

 

Q: I would like some information on clematis. What varieties are hardy to southeast North Dakota? Could you also please tell me the colors of these varieties and give me hints on growing them? (e-mail reference)

A: Clematis (Clematis hybrids) is probably the showiest of the vines that can be grown in the Upper Midwest. It grows best where it doesn’t get too hot. It does well with an exposure to the east, but if it is grown on the south and west side of a structure, the clematis will benefit from midday shade. Clematis does best in a cool, moist soil, but the soil must have good drainage. The soil can be kept cool during the growing season by using organic mulch, such as sphagnum peat moss, which also will help keep the soil more acidic. Clematis climbs by leaf petioles that act like tendrils. Most clematis will bloom on the current season’s growth, if cut to the ground in the spring before growth starts. Some clematis is useful as ground cover. I would encourage you to visit local garden centers, but not the national chains, to see what they have for sale. Small- business owners will not sell anything that is not hardy to the area and you can then choose the plants you want. I do not suggest making mail-order catalog purchases of this vine.

 

Q: My husband was listening to you on the radio the other day. His ears perked up when you mentioned some products for keeping rabbits at bay. However, he couldn’t write them down at the time because he was in the car. Could you please give me the names of these products? The rabbits ate all three of my bridal wreath bushes. I’ve been cutting Irish Spring soap and sprinkling it over the ground; however, the smell is enough to drive the entire neighborhood indoors. After the sun shines on the soap, it turns white and looks like mold. Therefore, I’m out to find something else. (Fargo, N.D.)

A: Thanks for being a listener! The products you want to look for are Hinder or Plantskydd. Go to www.plantskydd.com for specific information on field trial results.

 

Q: We planted our first bulbs last fall. We were just admiring them yesterday, but last night a deer ate them. Will they bloom next year or do I have to replace them? (e-mail reference)

A: Good question! If the deer ate the flowers and leaves with no green left behind, then they are finished and need to be replaced. If the deer ate the flowers, but not the leaves, they will come back next year, provided the leaves can die off naturally. If you do replant, spray the flowers and foliage next spring with a hot pepper spray, such as Hinder or Plantskydd.

 

Q: The branches on my Schubert chokecherry tree are dying. I have seen some pictures of black knot, but I don’t think that is the problem. There seem to be webs on some of the branches and the bark is peeling away in spots. Can you tell me what the problem is and how I can treat it? I’ve attached a photo of the problem. (e-mail reference)

A: Your tree has stem canker. Everything above the canker will die this season or next season. Because the canker is on a main stem and not a side branch, cutting it off would not control it. Sorry about the bad news!

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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