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September 29, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: Some of the leaves on my linden tree are curled and shrunken. When you peel the leaves, there is a white substance near where the leaf is attached to the stem. Can you identify the problem and what can be done to fix it? My next question is about my apple tree. I think it is being “nailed” by a woodpecker. It is full of holes that look like they were made by someone pounding a nail into the tree trunk. They follow the circumference of the tree in a nice even line. Also, where I had previously cut a branch off the tree (and sprayed the area with the black spray paint to seal tree wounds), something has hollowed out a nice little cave. Is it a woodpecker that is having its way with my tree? I heard woodpeckers attack trees when they are infested with bugs. I lost a pussy willow tree a few years ago. It had the same type of holes in the trunk that are now on my apple tree. When I cut the pussy willow down, the trunk had live worms or larva inside of it. (West Fargo, N.D.)

A: The linden looks like it could be showing the results of leafhopper damage or herbicide drift from lawn applications to control dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. The apple tree is being nailed by yellow-bellied sapsuckers, which are in the woodpecker family. They are doing it because it is a smorgasbord of insect larvae for them to feed on. Your apple tree is likely doomed, but I can say exactly when. As to what is going to deliver the fatal blow, my bet would be with the disease problems the tree appears to have. The sapsucker is doing only what comes naturally.

 

Q: Do you have any idea what would cause coleus leaves to dehydrate in the middle? The problem seems to start at the midrib (both sides) and work toward the edge of the leaves. The plants appeared healthy at purchase. (e-mail reference)

A: It sounds like it could be botrytis, a fungal disease brought on by too much water and high humidity. It is not unusual considering where coleus is planted, such as shaded locations where sunlight cannot dry the foliage quickly.

 

Q: Earlier this spring I requested manure for my garden. A farmer brought me too much manure and it was too fresh. Now my cabbage plants are not growing and the leaves on my tomato and peppers are turning yellow. Is there anything I can do for them? Will they snap out of it and start to improve? Some say give them lots of water and some say it will be better next year. What do you say? (Golden Valley, N.D.)

A: I doubt your plants will recover this year no matter how much water you apply. Give it a year to “weather” somewhat and next year’s crop should be fine.

 

Q: I read in your column where someone is asking how to keep deer out of your garden. I have tried a remedy and it seems to work. You buy a couple of bars of original Dial soap (or you can break them in half) and put a piece in an old nylon stocking. Tie them in trees close to the garden. The deer were tearing off the bark of some young trees with their horns. My remedy seemed to help a lot. I seldom see any deer in the yard anymore. (Enderlin, N.D.)

A: Thanks for the tip on deer control. I have heard that it works for some people, but not for others. Glad it worked for you!

 

Q: I think that my grapevine leaves have a disease or parasites (I see small worms on the leaves). I just moved into a house with a grape arbor, but I don’t know how to take care of it. It is growing like wildfire, but many leaves have holes. Some leaves are completely eaten away or destroyed. What does this mean? Can I save my grapes? (e-mail reference)

A: It means that you have some critter out that is finding your grape leaves very tasty! Spray the plant with Sevin insecticide. Be sure to cover all leaf surfaces.

 

Q: I have several peonies that were here when I bought my house (19 years ago). I’ve divided and shared a few times. The plants are very healthy and always covered with sweet flowers. I have no complaints. I am curious why, after they’ve bloomed, there are always a few flower buds that never open. (e-mail reference)

A: Good question! I could not find the answer in any of my references, so let’s explore some possibilities. Earlier, heavier blooming depleted the energy to open the last ones. It could be some sexual parts of the flower are underdeveloped. It could be a response to the shortening length of sunlight. That is all of the possibilities I can think of for now.

 

Q: We have a flowering crabapple tree that shades a large portion of our house. It was here when we moved in 15 years ago. It bloomed profusely this spring, but it is already losing its leaves. What does this indicate? There are several yellow leaves on the tree that I suspect will soon fall. I would hate to have it die. What are your suggestions? (Sioux Falls, S.D.)

A: The tree is obviously subject to a leaf spot (likely scab) disease problem. It will take a lot more than this to kill the tree, but it will weaken it and make it vulnerable to other problems. You can spray with a Funginex or Bordeaux mixture right now to help prevent the spread of the spores to the uninfected growth. Clean up all leaf and fruit liter this fall. Next spring spray the tree with lime-sulfur before leafing occurs. As they open, spray with the aforementioned fungicides or Captan.

 

Q: I plan to go searching the Burleigh County and Rock Hill Township area for Juneberry bushes to make pies. A friend says Juneberries aren’t ready until the middle or late July. Isn’t she thinking about chokecherries? Can you tell me when Juneberries ripen? I would think June since they are called Juneberries. (e-mail reference)

A: Judging from my own Juneberries, I would say that sometime around the middle of July is about right. Find one growing locally on someone’s property and gauge your visit to the wilds on that. The season can move a week or two based on weather conditions.

 

Q: Last year one of my miniature barberry bushes suffered about 90 percent winterkill and another about 60 percent. We replaced one and are waiting on the other to see if it turns out looking better than it does right now. Can I prune away the dead limbs? Will it eventually fill in with new limbs? Should I have mounded dirt or mulch at the base of the plants or covered them in leaves last fall to prevent winterkill? I just planted a dwarf fiesta forsythia. Since Bismarck is technically Zone 3 and the barberries and the forsythia have northern exposure, should I somehow cover the base this fall also to prevent winterkill? (Bismarck, N.D.)

A: Barberry bushes seldom do well in our region, so I would encourage you to opt for something else. They are the alternate host for stem rust on our cereal crops. Since the forsythia is being established this early, I see no need for providing cover. If it makes you feel better to do so, go ahead. I never have known any forsythia that died because of winter problems.

 

Q: I have horseradish that keeps coming back in my garden area. It is irritating me to no end. Since I have clay soil, I am thinking about pouring a concrete slab for a patio over the area where it is coming up. Do you think this will eliminate the horseradish or will it spread underneath and pop up somewhere else? Is there anything else I can do? (e-mail reference)

A: Thanks for the e-mail about horseradish! Let this be a good lesson for those who are contemplating growing this plant that is impossible to get rid of! Concrete has been known to do it in. If you can, prior to pouring the concrete slab, do all you can to dig out the remaining rhizomes. Then pour the concrete nice and thick!

 

Q: I live in North Branch, Minn., which is right on the border of Zone 3 and 4. We bought a royalty crab tree from our local nursery eight years ago. It has beautiful foliage in the spring and early summer. However, it begins to lose its leaves in early July. Is there something wrong with the tree? Is there something we can do to prevent this from happening? Our neighbors have the same tree and problem. (e-mail reference)

A: This is likely a foliar disease known as apple scab. There is a lot of it going around this year. Spray the tree with a Bordeaux mixture for now and be sure to pick up all the fallen fruit and leaf litter this fall. Next spring, spray the tree with lime-sulfur while dormant to protect and “sanitize” the tree. As the foliage unfolds, spray with Funginex, a Bordeaux mixture or Captan fungicide.

 

Q: I have an 11-year-old maple tree that has developed a long, vertical gash in its bark. I first noticed it when I saw rainwater flowing along a track that developed in a depression on that side of the tree. The bark became slightly rotted because water was trapped inside. I stripped it to good wood. Is the tree going to recover? Should I plug the gap (inch wide) with tar? The leaves this summer are perfect. (e-mail reference)

A: The tree should recover, but don’t touch the wound with anything resembling a sealer. The tree should form new bark tissue that slowly will roll over the wounded area. You did the right thing in cutting the rotted bark back to fresh wood.

 

Q: I started six leaves from three different African violets. Three of them are thriving and beginning to develop into real plants, but I have tiny gnatlike flying insects around the soil. They look like fruit flies. I don’t want to kill the plants. Can you suggest what I could do to get rid of the little flying pests? (e-mail reference)

A: Spray them with a pyrethrin-based houseplant insecticide. Get it in a pump container, not an aerosol type. The aerosol carrier tends to “burn” the foliage if sprayed too close. Get the flies when they are in flight because this is a contact-only material made from mum plants.

 

Q: What can I expect as far as the life expectancy of a highbush cranberry shrub? (Moorhead, Minn.)

A: It possibly will live longer than you, but with indifferent cultural care and bad weather, as short as a year. Most people end up pulling them out and replanting with something else after 15 to 20 years because they want a change of scenery!

 

Q: In my kitchen near a northern exposure window, I have a very pretty, braided trunk Eugenia (Syzygium Paniculatum) mini tree. I have had it for several years and am training it into a nice topiary-style ball. I have two problems that may or may not be related. Although I never let it completely dry out (having learned the hard way), every couple of months it decides to drop about 30 percent of its leaves. The fallen leaves feel crisp. For the past few months, most if not all, the new leaf growth is covered with a clear, very sticky sap-type substance. I also noticed that the top edge of the clay pot in which it lives is also sappy and sticky. The plant never has done this before. I see this lovely plant every day and it gives me a great deal of pleasure. I would love to help it. Any diagnostic clues you can give me would be most welcome. (e-mail reference)

A: This cause is spider mite feeding. Look closely at the plant with a reading (magnifying) glass if necessary. You should see their little webbing or crawlers on the foliage. They insert their stylets into the leaf tissue and start sucking out the liquid. The liquid passes through their bodies and becomes a sticky sap, which eventually causes the foliage to drop. Get a miticide at a local garden center and spray the plant. Mist the foliage on a regular basis or run the plant under a tepid shower every so often to help keep mites under control.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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