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November 10, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: My oak tree leaves have brown spots. Is this a fungus? Can it be treated and with what? Maybe it is from the wet spring we had. Thanks and I enjoy your column. (Portland, N.D.)

A: It could be a fungal disease brought on by the wet weather. I would suggest getting a sample to the plant diagnosis lab at Waldron Hall on the NDSU campus as soon as possible for analysis and recommendations for control. Thanks for the nice comments about the column!

 

Q: I had a gorgeous silver birch in my front yard. I was getting very sick and discovered that I was allergic to the tree. To my regret, we had it cut down and the stump ground down. My problem is that there are millions of baby birch trees coming up in my yard. How can I get rid of them? I continue to get very sick. Even walking on my lawn and stepping on them give me a severe allergic reaction. I hope and pray that you can help me get rid of the baby trees and give me relief from my allergies. Any ideas are welcome. (e-mail reference)

A: Get a professional lawn care operator to apply broadleaf herbicide to your lawn to control the “weeds” that you have, which in this case are the sucker growths coming from the roots. Probably a material such as Trimec should be used, as it will translocate into the roots. Sorry to hear of this unusual allergy!

 

Q: Are horseradish leaves safe to use? I was told to put the leaves in a crock when making crock dill pickles, but I also was told they could be poisonous. (e-mail reference)

A: The leaves are considered poisonous to livestock. As little as eating 1 percent of the body weight has resulted in swine death within three hours. Whoever told you to use the leaves apparently has gotten away without poisoning anyone, so perhaps it is in the processing that the poison is eliminated or destroyed. I still wouldn’t use it if I were you. Why take a chance?

 

Q: We would like to plant thuja evergreens, but don’t know if they will survive in our climate. When is the best time to plant? We have tried evergreens before, but without luck. (Lehr, N.D.)

A: This cultivar very likely will turn bronze during the winter, but survive nonetheless. Be sure you give them plenty of room to mature, don’t plant them too deeply or overwater and be sure to spray them with Wilt-Pruf just before winter closes in.

 

Q: My husband bought two potentilla (goldfinger) shrubs at a local nursery during the first week of June. I planted them a few days later. I was concerned with all the hot weather we had, so I began to water them every other day by placing a small trickle at the base of the plant for a short time. They never flowered and recently have turned brown, but still seem to have life in the stems. I fertilized after a few weeks, thinking they would come back, but they never looked better. What am I doing wrong? I feel like I am doing too much or not enough of something. How do I know if they are dead? It is so hard to tell. (e-mail reference)

A: Potentillas are “xeric” plants that need very little water to survive and thrive. Your watering likely has caused the problems you describe. Scrape the bark tissue on a couple of stems. If the tissue beneath is still green, that means there is life! If it is not green, then the plant is dead and you are better off disposing of it and replanting.

 

Q: I have a peace lily. I replanted it to a bigger pot and ever since then it looks like it is dying. It has yellow leaves and looks like it is in distress. What should I do? I try not to water it every day, but I spray the leaves every day with water. (e-mail reference)

A: I would guess the plant is attempting to go into dormancy because of the transplanting. Back off on the watering and allow the foliage to dry down gradually. What you are doing right now is not helping one bit. Allow the soil to become dry, but keep it from drying completely with an occasional light watering. If it is going to recover, it should start to show new growth in six to eight weeks or so. When it does, resume the regular daily watering and misting as the leaves continue to unfold. Generally, repot during the winter months when dormancy can be a more natural occurrence.

 

Q: What is the best way to view and/or order various publications that are produced by your department? An example is the publication on strawberries (H-16). Can it be viewed online and printed out or is requesting a hard copy from your department the best way to go? (Valley City, N.D.)

A: Most can be viewed on the Web. Go to www.ag.ndsu.nodak.edu/horticulture.htm. There you will see the publications that can be downloaded. Thanks for your interest!

 

Q: Can you please tell me what vegetables have a short root system? I have an area behind my house that used to be an ally, so the soil is very hard. I put 6 to 7 inches of dirt on top of the hard soil, so I want to plant something that has “short roots.” (e-mail reference)

A: Leafy greens, such as Swiss chard, lettuce, collards, cabbage, broccoli and onions, have the shortest roots. Peppers may or may not work, but they are worth a try.

 

Q: My mother gave me a jade plant last winter when she moved into an apartment and didn’t have room for it. It was a good-sized plant with four main stems that were about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. The soil in the pot was down, so I repotted it. I was watering it, but it got quite dry on top. It was looking good, but there were some leaves that were shriveled, so that told me it needed more water. I started giving it more water, but still waited until it was dry on top and always turned it so it would get plenty of light on all sides. The leaves plumped up, so I thought I was on the right track. The last couple of weeks it has been so hot, so I put up a curtain in the door where I had it so the room won’t get so hot. I opened the curtain when I got home from work in the late afternoon. A few days ago, I came home and there were two big branches snapped off and lying on the floor. They were the main branches from the center of the plant. The center of the branch didn’t seem to be soft, so I am not sure what happen. I am just sick. I never have had a jade plant before, so I am not sure what to do or how to start a new one. Can I take the branches that broke off and put them in new soil? I have noticed there are a few leaves that have little white, dry specks on them that can be rubbed off. (e-mail reference)

A: Go to the following Web sites to have your questions answered, www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/houseplnts/jade.htm or www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257.pdf.

 

Q: I have raspberry canes that suddenly started wilting and dying. There are healthy canes among the dead ones. I could not find borers or girdlers, but did find many brown, rotting roots. Could this be rhizoctonia? The planting is at least five years old. Any suggestions on how to rejuvenate the canes? (e-mail reference)

A: Get the rejuvenation started early next spring. If they are dug and separated now, the loss would be heavy. Next spring, as they are about to break dormancy, would be best because the canes would have the vigor to be re-established.

 

Q: We have a silver maple that is doing fine, but has an irregular shape. The branches in the center of the tree have not grown as fast as those on the bottom and top. Is there anything that can be done to even out the shape of the tree? (Moorhead, Minn.)

A: Yes, contact a professional tree service to inspect the tree. The professional can give you pruning suggestions or can do it for you.

 

Q: I have an amur maple. It has done well until recently, when its leaves started to turn a lighter green. Now I have several leaves with black or dark brown around the edges. Another amur maple a short distance away does not have these symptoms. Any ideas about the problem? Should I trim off the branches that show these symptoms? (e-mail reference)

A: Get some Miracle-Gro or Miracid applied to the foliage and around the dripline of the tree. This is often a symptom of a micronutrient deficiency, which usually is iron. If not corrected quickly, it could lead to the decline of the tree. The foliage will not change this season, but applying it now will get the elements into the soil and vascular system of the tree. If applied again next spring, just as the leaves are opening, you may be able to reverse the problem.

 

Q: Much as I like fishing and acknowledge the necessity of nightcrawlers for that purpose, I have just discovered that I have them in my lawn. Do you have any tips for eradicating these pests? (Turtle Lake, N.D.)

A: Treat your lawn for grubs. In doing so, you will reduce the nightcrawler population by about 30 percent.

 

Q: My petunias turned yellow in August. It looks like iron deficiency. My purple wave plants do not get this problem as easily as other waves or other varieties. I also have wave petunias in baskets in soil substitute. They are fine. The area with the petunias had fresh peat moss incorporated into the soil this spring. This yellowing is a yearly problem. I had hoped that watering with rural water would help, but it didn’t. I fertilized every 10 days with Miracle-Gro. Is there a product that I can utilize before planting that will have long-term results? Should I also spray with a stemic to control leafhoppers? As I said, the purple waves growing in soil are not affected. (Langdon/Wales, N.D.)

A: When most people add peat moss, they don’t do it in sufficient quantity. The mixture should be 50 percent soil and 50 percent peat moss. Be sure it is sphagnum peat, which has a pH of about 4.8. Miracle-Gro now has a slow-release product on the market that may help as well. See if you can find that in your part of the country. If not, go to its Web site to see where the product can be obtained or order the product.

 

Q: Some people told me that cats like spider plants because it affects them like LSD. Did you find that to be true? I don’t have a cat, but I have a hamster that will do anything to get near my spider plants. If you could give me some insight into spider plants and cats, it would be very helpful! (e-mail reference)

A: Being a cat owner myself (or is it the other way around?), I noted the attraction between my furry friends and this particular species of plant. I checked into spider plant toxicity and found that it is listed as nontoxic. Apparently, cats are attracted to spider plants because, like catnip, spider plants are mildly hallucinogenic to cats. The same thing may be true of hamsters. While harmless, the cats need to be disciplined or they will trash the plant. When we bring ours indoors for the winter, we have to make sure the spiderettes do not hang low enough for the cats to reach!

 

Q: I read your column with interest and appreciate the advice and suggestions. I have a rather large plot in a Fargo community garden. This garden was flooded in June and my particular area was under Red River water for a day and a half. I had about 500 onion plants that, on average, were about the size of a pencil at the time of the flood. Most of the plants survived. In addition, I have been hearing some warning about the water possibly contaminating plants that were flooded, so I have avoided eating the onions. My question is whether there might be concern for eating the onion bulbs after they reached maturity, dried and were readied for storage. Would the two months time in the sun and rain eliminate any contamination? Some people irrigate their gardens with water straight out of the river and I haven’t heard of any problems. I realize that during a flood certain barnyard or other contaminants might have entered the river water. I suppose that cooking the onions would give more protection than eating them raw. Finally, if contamination might be an issue, is there any service where I could have the onions tested? (e-mail reference)

A: Not a problem. The worst time would be right after the flooding waters receded. Follow common sense. If something doesn’t taste right, stop eating it. Testing is possible, but for what? Besides, it is very expensive to do, even if you knew what you were looking for.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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