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December 22, 2005

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: My mother and I have a lucky bamboo that was given to her a year ago. Since that time, I have changed the water and washed the stones before repotting the plant. The bamboo is in a clear glass container and we are trying to use pure water, rather than tap. The problem is that every week after the water has been changed, the plant or the water starts to stink. What is going on? Can I transplant the lucky bamboo to potting soil instead of using stones? (e-mail reference)

A: Lucky bamboo is putting products of photosynthesis into the water through the roots. Get it moved into some potting soil. If you aerated the water, which is usually a pain in the neck to do for just one plant, you wouldn't have the smell problem.

 

Q: Four years ago, I bought my daughter a "bulb in a box" at Christmas time. It turned out to be a calla lily. The plant came up, but didn't get very large and never bloomed. Since then, I've planted it in my garden. Each summer the calla lily grows larger, but never produces blooms. Why doesn't it bloom and how should I be storing it during the winter? I've been digging it up, repotting it, and moving it to a sunny window in the house until it’s time to plant it outdoors in the spring. (e-mail reference)

A: Based on what you have told me, I don't know. I suggest that you go to my Web site, www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/flowers/lily.htm, where I have a question-and-answer page on calla lilies.

 

Q: I planted some very beautiful dahlias, but it is getting cold and I want to save them. What do I need to do to preserve my flowers? Do I have to dig up the bulbs? If so, how do I store them? (e-mail reference)

A: Allow the tops to be nipped by the frost. That shuts everything down. Then dig and clean them by hand, but don’t use water, and dust each one with powdered sulfur for insect and disease protection. Store the dahlias in paper bags in a dark, cool location that will not freeze. Plant them again in the spring when the danger of frost is past.

 

Q: My wife was having problems with deer eating various plants in her gardens. By chance, she tried cutting scented dryer sheets into strips about an inch wide and tying the strips on her plants. She has not had a problem with the deer since. It seems the deer don't like the smell and so they stay away. I thought you might want to pass this along to your readers to see if they have the same results. (e-mail reference)

A: Thanks for the good information. I'm sure plenty of people will be employing your wife's methods this winter when these hungry critters come around.

 

Q: We have a dogwood bush that is approximately 8 years old and stands about 4 1/2 feet tall. I would like to move it to another location in our yard. What type of roots do dogwoods have, can they withstand being cut to be moved and how deep are the roots? (e-mail reference)

A: Dogwoods are easy to move. If you can get to the bush right after a hard frost stops growth for the season, go ahead and cut it back and get the plant moved as soon as possible. Water it well at the new location and the plant should be all right, surging with new growth next spring.

 

Q: Is it possible for dead corn stalks (used for decoration) to emit pollen? (e-mail reference)

A: I really doubt it because the pollen was dispersed long ago. The likelihood of any being left is very remote. Also, it is very dense pollen by comparison, so the pollen would have washed away or decayed by now.

 

Q: A couple of years ago we removed a pine tree next to the house. We did not replant for a year. Since then, we have planted hosta and snow on the mountain in this area, but they are very slow growing and seem dwarfed compared with other hosta and snow on the mountain planted nearby. Is the soil too acidic? How can we fix this? (Jamestown, N.D.)

A: Bring in some fresh topsoil and work it into the existing soil. In time, the growth inhibitors in the soil should break down and allow the other plants to grow normally. Acidity easily can be tested by a local garden center or by sending a small sample to the soil-testing lab at NDSU in Waldron Hall. You county Extension Service agent, Tom Olson, should have a soil test bag available for you to use. If the pH comes back at 5 or lower, acidity may be the problem. The addition of any lime product would help correct it.

 

Q: I subscribe to putting trees to bed wet in the winter but the Oct. 5 snowstorm carried things a bit too far. We have a beautiful Scotch pine in the back yard. The top third broke from the weight of the snow and wind. Will it recover and is there anything we should do to help it recover? As usual, we value your advice. You haven't steered me wrong yet. (Turtle Lake, N.D.)

A: Glad I haven't steered you wrong! For now, there is nothing that can be done to help the tree recover. The Scotch pine should recover, but it might have a slight crook in the stem as a new leader takes over. I assume you made a clean cut of the break. If not, do so.

 

Q: I enjoy reading your weekly columns. Several years ago, violets started growing in my yard. I sprayed them with 2,4-D. The violets were not deterred, so I sprayed them with Trimex with about the same result. Then I sent for Confront, which eventually may kill them, but it takes time. The company recommends spraying Confront in late summer or early fall. I did this, but noted that the violets already had sent up seed heads. I noted that each seed head had about 60 seeds and about 30 percent had already set seed. With hundreds of seed heads in my yard, I had thousands of seeds dispersed this year, so spraying violets in late summer is not going to reduce the number because they seed before they die. Is there another solution to eliminating violets?

Several years ago, I wrote you and indicated that my spruce limbs were drying and dying on the northwest side of the trees. This is not spider mites or any other insect that I can see. The limbs continue to suffer and I have friends with limbs succumbing also predominantly on the northwest side of the trees. Do you have any idea what the problem might be? (e-mail reference)

A: I never said the battle would be easy; at least the parent plants, which are perennial, are dying. Next spring, hit the young seedlings with Trimec as they emerge. That is the most vulnerable part of their life cycle. You eventually will win if you persist! All I can advise you about the spruce trees is to send a sample to our plant diagnostic lab in Waldron Hall on the NDSU campus. Send along a full description of what is going on. Don't just send dead tissue, but some that is at the dying/living interface. Thanks for the nice comment about the column. It is appreciated!

 

Q: I heard through a friend of a florist that jade plants affect the immune system and that households with young children should not have these plants in the house. Is there any truth to this? (e-mail reference)

A: It is not true. If they can cite chapter and verse of controlled, double-blind, randomized and replicated data from legitimate research, then I might buy into it. Otherwise, it is an empty rumor with no substance. There isn't one piece of literature that I have that substantiates this hearsay.

 

Q: I want to thin out some iris bulbs and transplant them to a different location. What is the proper procedure for dividing bulbs? (e-mail reference)

A: Let me give you a technical correction. Iris are rhizomes, not bulbs. They should be cut, trimmed and free of any weedy rhizomes, such as quackgrass or thistle, and then set into the new location as soon as possible. Plant just below the soil surface and water in. Go to my publication on iris care at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h113w.htm for more detailed information.

 

Q: I need your advice on what fertilizers I should use for my rose and lilac bushes. I planted them in July. I am going to mulch them before winter sets in and I wasn't sure if I should give them some food before I put the mulch down. (e-mail reference)

A: There is nothing needed, so go ahead and mulch. When they begin growing next spring, fertilize the bushes with any commercially available product that is labeled for flowering shrubs.

 

Q: I have several variegated dogwood shrubs that I cut back about every three years. I have done it in the fall. Is it better to do it in the spring? (e-mail reference)

A: It makes little difference, but I believe the fall is easier because our spring weather is so fickle and often keeps us from getting out to do yard or field work as much as we would like. If you have done it this way in the past, there is no reason to change.

 

Q: My father-in-law is an incredible gardener. Year after year he grows beautiful, tasty, juicy tomatoes. He keeps seeds from the year before to plant the next year. This year his crop of tomatoes looked amazing. The plants were healthy, they flowered, tomatoes appeared and grew to amazing sizes, but they did not fully ripen. Most of the tomatoes stayed green. He didn't do anything differently from other years. We have looked high and low on the Internet for an answer, but could not find one. (e-mail reference)

A: The main problem is the fact that your father-in-law saves the seed each year. Not that this is a bad thing, but tomatoes are bred for certain climate conditions. When the genetic information is erased or lost, as it would be in saving the seed from year to year, that characteristic of ripening within a certain time period and day length is lost. For example, the tomato hybrids that grow and produce well in a greenhouse in Florida or south Texas will not do well in our northern gardens and vice versa. Another factor that influences the ripening of tomatoes is the heat units. If Toronto were short on heat units, the tomatoes would be slower to ripen. We had that problem in North Dakota last year when our summer was cool through August, so very few tomatoes had ripened to that point. I was telling everybody to dig out their grandmother's green tomato recipes, but September turned warm and we had an extended growing season through October. The extended season allowed the tomatoes to ripen before the killing frosts killed the plants. Tell your father-in-law not to give up, but try some hybrids next year.

 

Q: I have an English ivy plant that has been doing very well, but suddenly the vines started drying out from the bottom up. The leaves are turning brown and withering. I've fertilized it, but that isn't helping. Do I need to repot it? It's also in a window that, with the change in weather, has gotten quite a bit colder. (e-mail reference)

A: I would suggest repotting it, if for no other reason than to see if the roots are still alive. It may be overwatered or in a poorly drained container. If you fertilized when it didn't need it (only fertilize when new growth is evident), you could have reached a toxic salt level in the soil.

 

Q: I happened upon your Web site and am wondering if you could tell me how to transplant my staghorn. It weighs about 250 pounds. The basket I started it in is rusty and basically gone. I don't want to hurt it. (e-mail reference)

A: My advice? Don't touch it! Contract out the project to someone who would know how to handle such a monster. If it is still doing OK without the basket, why mess with it?

 

Q: I purchased a valiant grape plant this spring. I asked the garden center about the beta grape because I would like to plant one or two of those along with the valiant. Because the garden center did not know anything about the beta, I gave them your name as a source of information. I hope that they will do that because I plan to go back this spring to purchase the beta. The climbing area is 8 or 10 feet long and equally as high. It appears that three plants (including the valiant I already have) would be appropriate for that space, judging by the size the valiant got to the first year. Does my thinking seem reasonable? Will beta and valiant plants get along in the space I will provide? Can you please send me any information you have on how to care for my grape plants and any information on how to process the grapes into jams, juice or wine? (Osnabrock, N.D.)

A: Here is a Web site for you to check, www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/askext/mainlist.htm. For specifics on grape varieties, go to www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1103.html.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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