January 19, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: The red maple tree I have is overgrown. Is it harmful to prune it during the winter months? (e-mail reference)

A: Not at all. In fact, late winter is the best time to carry out deciduous tree pruning because it is easier to get to the branches that need pruning, you have better working temperatures, no biting bugs and there is less chance of disease spread. I would wait until mid-February to do it.

Q: I used to have a snake plant in my old house. I had it for more than 13 years, but I was moving to a house with poor lighting, so I gave it to my neighbor. It never flowered the entire time I had it, but I miss it! After I moved, I discovered that I had a perfect window for plants and a new friend gave me a cutting that I was able to grow. I’ve had it for more than a year. The plant lives in a bathroom window (southern exposure) near my shower stall. Tonight, when I went to see if it needed water, it was blooming! I thought this happened in February. When will I get the berry (fruit)? I saw that you told someone to cut off the bloom. Why should I do that? I never water the plant until it grabs my leg when I am leaving the shower! (e-mail reference)

A: It sounds like a fresh snake plant to me. Are you sure you want it to be in the bathroom with you when you shower? Blooming can take place anytime the energy reserves are at a high enough level to do so. Also, some blooming depends on day length. Some bloom during long daylight hours (short nights), while others bloom on short days (long nights). Others are indifferent and bloom whenever conditions within the plant will allow it to do so, as in the case of your snake plant. Putting energy into fruit production is wasteful with houseplants, especially the snake plant because it spends most of its life as a foliage plant. Admire the bloom while you can, then remove it as the flower begins fading.

Q: I haven’t seen your question-and-answer column in any of the local newspapers for some time, but I assume that you are still in business. I am inquiring about two species of nut trees I have long been interested in. I am enclosing an old issue of the Raintree catalog. In my opinion, it is one of the best and most reliable nurseries. It offers the Turkish tree hazel and seedling plants of the American chestnut. Both of these are listed as Zone 3 hardy. What do you know about these two nut species? Are they reasonably hardy in sheltered areas of this region? If so, can you tell me about their planting requirements? I know that the bush hazelnut grows in northern parts of North Dakota and in Minnesota. (Turtle Lake, N.D.)

A: Thank you for your support! Whether a paper publishes the column is up to it. I supply the column to whoever wants to use it. Both species of woody plants would be marginally hardy in North Dakota. My texts list them as hardy in Zone 4, being killed back when temperatures reach minus 30 degrees. My experience with both species dates back to my time in Ohio, where they thrived. To try them out in North Dakota is a gamble, but where would humankind be today if limits were not pushed?

Q: I have several questions for you. The questions might be more appropriate for springtime, but they are pertinent to me now as I begin to think of this coming spring. I have a couple of patches of asparagus that are healthy and bearing well. I do have a problem with grass in both patches. I have been told that Poast will control the grass. You also have suggested Vantage. Are asparagus plants dicots? Can I use either of the herbicides on raspberries to control grass? Lastly, can I use either of them on horseradish plants to control grasses? I enjoy your column and look forward to reading it. (Richville, Minn.)

A: All I can tell you is to follow label instructions and guidelines for use of Poast and/or Vantage. I don’t have the current label, so I am unsure which crops are on the list. If horseradish is not listed, it is against the law to use it on that crop. Asparagus is in the lily family.

Q: I planted a Pagoda dogwood last August and amended our horrible clay soil with sphagnum peat moss and compost from the Fargo recycling facility. Not long after planting, the leaves began to curl, turn black and drop off. There were no signs of insects or disease and I provided adequate water. New growth soon emerged, but suffered the same fate up to fall frost. Is the nitrogen content of the compost from the landfill abnormally high due to fertilizer application? Could that have caused the burning and leaf drop? (Fargo, N.D.)

A: It sounds like a total dissolved salts problem. The likely source is the compost. Years ago, I ran a salt spectrum on the material and found it to be abnormally high. I usually recommend that no more than 10 percent to 15 percent of the compost be used in any planting mix because the nutrients are high enough to cause the burning you describe with many plant species. Chances are the Pagoda dogwood will recover this spring, given the amount of moisture we had this fall and the subsequent snowfall we’ve had. You can use the city compost, but do so in limited amounts because of its nutrient-rich character.

Q: My wife and I just bought a new home. It has a lovely corkscrew willow in the front. Unfortunately, the person doing our lawn trimmed off most of the lower branches that where corkscrewing! He trimmed high, so the lower branches are now straight and narrow and all the corkscrews are on top. Of course, this ruins the look. Will new growth occur on the lower branches in the spring? Is there anything we can do to help it? (e-mail reference)

A: Your inquiry reinforces my contention that pruning is definitely an art and a science. One without the other leads to what you described. It may come back if there wasn’t too much pruned off. In other words, if he didn't remove the grafted stock, which it sounds like he didn't, the plant should set out some new buds this spring that will have the corkscrew character that you desire. If it doesn't appear that is going to happen, then nip off the terminal bud back to the first lateral bud to stimulate lateral bud breaking further down the stem.

Q: I live in the tri-state area and want to top a Norwegian spruce that is about 80 feet tall. I want to take off about 6 to 10 feet. Some people say I should not because the tree will die. Some say it will survive. (e-mail reference)

A: Taking that much off an 80-foot Norway spruce that is healthy will not kill it. What will happen, is that one or more of the lateral branches will bend up to take over the terminal growth of the tree. It might look weird, but it will not hurt the tree.

Q: I obtained a young, white ash in the late fall. I was going to plant it, but the weather took a turn for the worse (as in snow and ice) and I was unable to plant the tree. Do you have any suggestions on how I can keep the tree alive during the winter? (e-mail reference)

A: Keep the rootball frozen, mulched with lots of straw and covered with a tarp until the soil thaws. Plant it as soon as possible.

Q: We received some potted tulips and (daffodils?). They're in a very light potting soil. There are 15 to 18 plants or bulbs. They're sprouting in the kitchen window and I want to keep them healthy. I'm assuming that they're old enough to bloom. I need to know how to keep them healthy and blooming. I'm guessing that they should be very lightly watered and left in their pot until they die back, then planted in very light soil with lots of sunlight. When would be the best time to put them into the ground to insure their survival and health? We have heavy soil. Do I need to amend the soil to the same consistency as the potting soil? When and how often should the bulbs be dug up and split? Is it OK to leave them in the ground and not bother with splitting them? (e-mail reference)

A: You are right in all of your assumptions while they are indoors. When spring weather arrives where you live, you can plant them about 6 inches deep (from the tip of the bulb) without amending the soil. They will go through the winter cold and flower for you again the following spring. Dig and divide the bulbs when the blooms begin to become less vigorous, or about every three to five years. I have tulip bulbs that were planted 20 years ago. Unless they were dug up when we planted annuals, perennials or other woody plants in the area, they never have been dug up. While their blooming is not as fantastic as it once was, it is good enough for us. It is a lot easier than digging them up and trying to decide where to plant again.

Q: I have a question about my jade that doesn't seem to appear on your Web site. Its leaves are starting to turn yellow and drop off. Any idea what might be causing this? The soil seems dry (at least down an inch or 2) and it gets as much sunshine as Columbus, Ohio, allows. It sits in a southern exposed window. I have no idea how old it is, but there are four main stems in the pot. There are new plants growing from the green leaves that have dropped into the soil. The one thing I saw on your Web site is that I shouldn't have rocks at the bottom of my pot. I do. Should I replant now or wait until spring? What about the yellow leaves? (e-mail reference)

A: You identified the problem. The stones at the bottom of the pot have created a false water table that is causing the jade's root system to suffer anaerobic (airless) conditions, so that’s why the leaves are turning yellow. In essence, the plant is suffering from poor drainage and should be repotted in a freely draining container as soon as possible. Preferably, the pot should be made of porous clay. While you are at it, you might pot some of the small propagules that have established themselves around the base of the mother plant.

Q: I purchased a Madagascar palm last summer. It has been doing great. Now that it is winter, half of its leaves on one side have fallen off. I keep it indoors. I water it when the soil is completely dry (two to three times a month). The trunk was silverlike when I got it, but the top part is still green. Is it supposed to do this? Are the leaves going to grow back? Am I doing something wrong? What can I do to help it? (e-mail reference)

A: This species is as tough as it is ugly in my opinion. It will recover the foliage when you set it outside this spring. I view growing Madagascar palms like raising piranhas in a swimming pool. You eventually will live to regret it. I'll give you three to four years of moving it in and out of doors without body armor. If you don't use armor, you may want to notify the local blood bank when you are planning to move it. This is a tough, xericlike plant, so keep it on the dry side. You are providing the right cultural care for it. If you get around to repotting, make sure it is in a porous clay pot.

Q: I am trying to locate cloudberry seeds or the plants. I know they grow in Alaska and Vermont, as well as Canada, Finland and Scandinavia. Any suggestions on where I might be able to purchase these plants or seeds? (e-mail reference)

A: Try the St. Lawrence Nursery in Potsdam, N.Y. E-mail the nursery at trees@sln.potsdam.ny.us or call (315) 265-6739. Its Web site is www.sln.potsdam.ny.us.
This is a small, organically run, family-owned business. Bill MacKentley is the proprietor. He knows his plant material and delights in growing some fringe material. If he doesn't have it in his nursery, he might know someone who would be able to supply it for you.

Q: I have two jade plants. One is sitting on the widow sill of my living room and the other is in a hallway, which has plenty of light. During the past week, I have noticed that the leaves on the jade plant in the hall are falling off and the plant looks limp. Why is this happening and what am I doing wrong? The plant in the hall is sitting next to a radiator. Could that be the problem? (e-mail reference)

A: The radiator is the problem. Thank you for mentioning this in your note. If you can, move it to another location away from this direct-heat source. With normal care, it likely will recover and releaf.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu

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