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February 2, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: During the last growing season, I had blades of grass in my lawn that turned yellow. I fertilized in the spring and fall, but that did not make a difference. Any idea as to what might be going on? I am trying to stay organic with my lawn care. (e-mail reference)

A: This usually is nothing to worry about, as long as the rest of the lawn looked OK. This problem is often seen in the spring, before the soil warms sufficiently. It is due to immature roots being unable to supply sufficient nutrients and compacted or waterlogged soil. Since lance nematodes have been identified as existing in our region, it could be this root-feeding pest that is causing the problem. I would suggest aerating your lawn this spring or early summer and follow that up with an organic fertilizer to see if this takes care of the problem.

 

Q: My house is infested with boxelder bugs this winter. I have been killing them with a mixture of water and dish soap. I cut down the tree that had the bugs. Is there anything else I can do to get rid of the bugs? If not, will they continue to enter my house in future years? (e-mail reference)

A: Boxelder bug infestations seem to be on the rise because of our mild winter. I would encourage you to hire a professional exterminator. The exterminator can place a protective barrier around your house to keep them at bay. This pest should disappear with the tree removed, but I've seen where they have congregated where no boxelder trees are nearby. Only time will tell.

 

Q: I have several arborvitae that need to be cut down a bit. Would it be OK to cut them in half? If so, what is the best way to do it so they will survive and look nice? (e-mail reference)

A: Do it in the spring, before new growth appears. Cut them back without leaving a bare stub. As for looking nice, try to remember your boot camp GI haircut. Not too many of us thought it looked nice, but the hair grew back and did look nice! In other words, don't expect it to look like a silk purse upon finishing. However, with flushes of new growth, it should look decent by midsummer and continue to improve from that point on.

 

Q: In preserving flowers with antifreeze, do you mix it with water or use it straight? (e-mail reference)

A: The ratio is two parts water to one part antifreeze.

 

Q: I’m going to plant some eastern red cedar on my property as part of a larger wildlife planting. I also have several apple trees of various varieties on my land. The apple trees would be a quarter-mile from the cedars. Do you think I should be concerned about cedar apple rust? The cedars would be southeast of the apples. There are very few cedars in our area. (e-mail reference)

A: It shouldn’t be a problem. If a breakout of cedar apple rust does occur, it easily could be controlled because you would know the source of the innoculum. It is controlled by picking the fruiting bodies off the junipers.

 

Q: I have a beloved 35-year-old jade plant. My nephew and daughter knocked the plant over one day and broke off quite a few branches. The pot was broken in half and the roots definitely were disturbed. I repotted it in the only pot I had that was big enough. It is struggling, but I thought it was going to make it. It has quite a few new leaves, but some of the branches have started to shrivel and fall off. The inside of the branch is slightly brown (in the center circle of the branch). The plant fell over at least three months ago. (e-mail reference)

A: Carefully cut the branches that are deteriorating back to healthy tissue. The plant very likely was bruised. Be patient because a plant that old has a lot going for it, except youthful vigor, so recovery will be slow.

 

Q: My brother has just moved here from Illinois. He is a gardening enthusiast. He would like to know what the average date of the last frost is in the spring and the average date of the first frost in the fall. (Leeds, N.D.)

A: Going by averages is a little dangerous at times. The data I have is from Minot, so give it a day or two either way. The last frost in the spring is approximately May 31 and the average date of the first fall frost is Sept. 2. That gives your brother about 90 frost-free days of gardening to enjoy, if the averages hold close.

 

Q: We planted a 150-foot row of bare-root common lilac along the sidewalk on the back of our lot. We hoped it would grow to be a hedge and provide some privacy. Eight years later, the tallest lilac is about 4 1/2 feet tall, but many are less than 2 feet. They have bloomed every year since the first spring after we planted them. The soil is regular Red River Valley clay and the lilacs are not in a low spot. I've tried watering, pruning and fertilizing, but nothing seems to make the plants grow faster. After eight years, we thought we would be pruning them regularly to keep them at about 8 feet. I have thought of sending in soil samples, mulching or using more fertilizer. Is it possible there was a mix up at the nursery and these are some sort of miniature lilacs? (Fargo, N.D.)

A: Very much so! If you can send a sample of a branch with buds on it to my attention at the NDSU Department of Plants Sciences, Box 5051, Fargo, ND 58105, we will attempt to identify if it is a common lilac or a dwarf cultivar. Make the sample 10 to 12 inches long.

 

Q: I would like to plant blueberries on my property adjacent to Lake of the Woods. The plants would be about 300 feet from the lake. Do you have any suggestions on variety, elevated planting, peat moss, distance between plants, etc? (Warren, Minn.)

A: The University of Minnesota has done the work on blueberries for you. Go to www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG3463.html and download the publication. I think you'll find everything you are looking for. Thanks for making contact.

 

Q: I was given a jade plant as a gift about six months ago. The plant thrived through late summer and fall. I kept it in a location that was at 65 to 70 degrees and watered it every week or two. I moved it about two months ago to a spot where it doesn't get as much light and one side was turned toward the wall, so it probably wasn't getting any light. It was still thriving for a month and a half. I decided that wasn't the best place for it, so I moved it back near a window on the west side of the house. All of a sudden, all the leaves on the side that was once turned toward the wall began to shrivel and fall off. The stems on that side are getting very flaccid and rubbery. I don't know what to do. Please help! (e-mail reference)

A: Just let it alone! Jade plants, as with humans, resist change in their environment (unless it is their choice, which is a characteristic jade plants lack!). In six weeks or so, new leaves should be re-emerging. After the leaves come back, keep the plant in that location.

 

Q: I have a friend who wants to plant lilac bushes. I told her she could have clippings from mine. I have looked at different Web sites and books for information. Some say to dig up the suckers and others say to get leaf or stem clippings. The bushes in my yard have white decorative stone around them for drainage and weed prevention. My bushes are very healthy and I’ve had them for more than 40 years. What would be the best way for me to give my friend some of my bushes without damaging the plants? (e-mail reference)

A: Generally, softwood cuttings will work best with a dip of the ends into a rooting hormone, such as IBA. Place them in a well-drained medium of coarse, clean sand. Keep the plants misted or kept in the shade and hand misted during the day. Go to www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257.pdf to download information on propagation techniques.

 

Q: Does cloudberry, also known as bakeapple, grow in North Dakota? If so, would you know where I could obtain some seed or plants? (e-mail reference)

A: I doubt it. They require or are found in native peat bogs, which indicate a highly organic and acid soil. The question is not hardiness, as they are said to grow in Minnesota, New York and New England. Cloudberry also can be found in subarctic tundra. I checked a 2006 catalog from St. Lawrence Nurseries, in Potsdam, N.Y., but it doesn't have cloudberry listed.

 

Q: I planted a weeping willow in my front yard about four years ago. It has gotten large really fast. I am thinking about heavy pruning or removing it. It is planted about 15 to 20 feet from my water supply and sewage lines. Is this a safe distance or should I take it out before things get ugly? (e-mail reference)

A: Taking the tree out would rob your landscape of the beauty this tree contributes, but the roots can become a problem anywhere there is any leakage in a sewer or water line. You could have a root barrier installed by a competent landscape contractor. The barrier would keep the roots at a safe distance and not impede the natural flow of water across your property and through the soil.

 

Q: I recently snipped off a spider plant baby and put it in water to root. The baby has developed a small clear spot near the base of one of its leaves. What does this mean? (e-mail reference)

A: I have no idea, but it doesn't sound good. They are better rooted in a sterilized or pasteurized potting media and kept moist.

 

Q: I have a question about my ficus plant (weeping variety rather than a rubber plant). It's an indoor plant and is in a bright, but north-facing room. Over the last couple of months, the plant has started to get yellow spots on its leaves. Otherwise, it seems healthy and there's plenty of new growth. It isn't losing an undue number of leaves. I've had the plant for about 15 years, so it really is part of the family! What could be the problem? (e-mail reference)

A: A number of things can cause yellow spots on leaves. It could be caused by water splashing on the leaves or watering with hard water. Underwatering often causes yellow spotting.
The problem could be aerosol "burn" from spraying insecticides, etc. Cold drafts may cause yellowing. Perhaps, just the older, mature leaves are turning yellow. Sort of like humans losing hair, but not going completely bald!

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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