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February 9, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: A year ago, I helped scrub 75 pounds of potatoes for a pancake feed. I washed the splatter from my glasses, but not immediately from my cheeks. They became quite red. With time, the redness has reduced, but not gone away. I’ve tried to learn what potatoes are washed in before marketing (everyone says just water) or what chemical is used to fertilize potatoes. Thank you for any advice. (Waseca, Minn.)

A: There is nothing on a potato skin that would cause this sort of reaction. I suspect that it may have come from the cleaning agent in the wash water. In either instance, the reaction should not have lasted this long. Surely, a dermatologist can provide something that will give you relief.

 

Q: We have a small plant on the south side of our house. It gets very hot and dry there, but it seems to be doing well. The person I got it from called it a "gas plant" because it has a very strong odor. It flowers in midsummer with pink blooms. If you can, please let me know the name of this plant. (McLeod, N.D.)

A: I’m glad to hear that it has done well for you. It is botanically known as Dictamnus albus and is the cultivar Purpureus, which has the purple/pink flower. The Rubrus cultivar has red flowers. Be sure to plant it where you want. They are not keen on being moved.

 

Q: We have five emerald arborvitae that have been diagnosed with phomopsis twig blight and alternaria as a secondary infection. Do you know of any arborvitae varieties that are not susceptible to these diseases? (e-mail reference)

A: The Nigra (dark green American) and Techny (mission) are noted for their cold hardiness and disease resistance. Keep in mind that it is not entirely the fault of the host that it became infected. Environmental conditions and planting quality play major roles in increasing susceptibility to pathogens. Be sure the soil is well drained, the plants get as much direct sunlight as possible and the area has good air circulation. Whatever you do, do not allow the foliage to be impacted by water from an automatic irrigation system!

 

Q: We transplanted two peony bushes last summer, but something ate most of the leaves. I never saw any sign of the culprits, but they stripped the stems. What (and when) should I spray them with to protect the bushes this year? (e-mail reference)

A: That could have been any hungry varmint! Spray with Orthene as the foliage emerges and repeat in two weeks. This leaves a residual and is systemic, which should take care of anything that decides to pick on them for lunch.

 

Q: I got a croton as a wedding gift, so it has huge sentimental value. It got too cold, so its leaves are dead and the plant is barely alive (if that). Is there anything I can do? Please let me know what other details may be helpful. (e-mail reference)

A: These are tough plants. If it was not completely frozen, chances are it will start to grow again if given enough time. Place it where it can get lots of light, keep it at room temperature and water it when the soil gets dry, but not before. Do not fertilize the plant until you see some new growth emerging.

 

Q: I have three ficus trees that we inherited with the house we bought. They have done well until recently. Two of them seem to be dying. One is very large and is forked into two main trunks about 18 inches above the pot. The branches of the trunk are about 2 1/2 inches in diameter. One of the branches is dead and the other is not doing well. Where do I cut off the dead portion of the trunk? The other troubled plant has three trunks growing up out of the same pot. One has died. Do I cut it off above or below the soil? I will probably cut one of the other trunks out as well, leaving only the tallest and best one. There is a dark discoloration from the soil up the trunk of each tree about 6 or 8 inches. (e-mail reference)

A: Cut the dead trunk of the first one back to the other trunk, about a quarter inch out. On the other tree, cut the dead trunk back as close to the soil as possible. The dark discoloration you refer to could be some superficial mold. See if you can wipe it off with a soapy cloth. It is probably a saprophyte (nonparasitic) growth.

 

Q: I have a young, potted Norwegian spruce as a Christmas tree and wish to keep it alive. I have noticed that it is starting to drop many needles. The soil is damp. I have it indoors because I have nowhere to put it outside for the moment. It is near a window, so it gets plenty of natural light. I try to keep the room at an average temperature of 20 degrees. Is this too warm? (e-mail reference)

A: You are killing the tree with human kindness. Norway spruce need the cold to survive. Get it outdoors and into the ground or surround the pot with snow and straw. There is no way it will survive where you now have it. Potted, temperate evergreens used as Christmas trees need to spend as little time indoors as possible.

 

Q: I have numerous hackberry trees coming up between my fence and my neighbor's fence. To kill the trees, is there something I can spray on them? They are difficult to get at to cut them down. (e-mail reference)

A: Allow them to leaf out this spring to drain some of their stored energy. After that, spray the trees with a brush or shrub killer available at most garden supply stores or use a legal dose of Roundup.

 

Q: I have three birch trees within about 5 feet of my house. I bought the house two years ago and I believe the trees are about the same age. They are approximately 30 feet tall. Are birch tree roots aggressive? Can I expect damage to the foundation of my house? Thanks for your time. (e-mail reference)

A: Nothing to worry about unless you have a leaky foundation, which you obviously don't or you would have noticed root damage by now. I've had a cutleaf weeping birch growing next to the foundation of my house for the past 20 years, but have not experienced any damage. Enjoy these beautiful, majestic trees.

 

Q: I recently bought an old farm with some big lilac bushes close to the house. We want to put a porch on the house, but the bushes are in the way. I don't want to kill them because I enjoy lilacs. Is there a way to move them with a spade? Thanks for the help. (e-mail reference)

A: Lilacs move and survive easily, if they are moved when dormant. Try to move as much of the root system as possible.

 

Q: I cut back two plants and brought them in for the winter. The plants are doing great, but they have some very small, black flies that resemble fruit flies. These are mostly in the dirt. What can I do to get rid of them? (e-mail reference)

A: The flies could be fungus gnats or fruit flies. Spray the flies with a houseplant insect spray while they are active. Several products are available on the market. If they persist, try repotting with fresh, pasteurized or sterilized potting soil. They are more of an annoyance than a threat to the plants.

 

Q: I have three amaryllis bulbs that I purchased two years ago. They bloomed right after I purchased them. I let them grow outside during the summer. They bloomed again in July of the same year, which surprised me. I let them rest and then put them outside all summer last year. I left them out until it was very cold at night and then put them in the fridge for five weeks. I brought them out again, but they are just growing leaves without any flowers. What did I do wrong? (e-mail reference)

A: You ran out of patience. Wait a year to build up carbohydrates in the bulb. Then go through the same process to see if they will bloom for you.

 

Q: Rabbits ate much of the bark off my sandcherry bushes. Are the bushes toast or will they come back? I know new shoots will come up, but are the mature stems gone? The rabbits didn’t eat the bark very deeply. The rabbits paid the supreme sacrifice for their actions. (e-mail reference)

A: If there is even a thin strip of bark connecting the top of the shrubs to the base, the bushes likely will releaf and survive. If the bark is denuded a great deal, you are better off cutting them back heavily this March or April and allowing the plants to sucker. Next fall, be a little wiser by applying a rabbit repellent, such as Plantskydd, before the snow arrives. Even though you've taken care of the current offenders, others will arrive soon to take their place.

 

Q: I have a landowner who has a newly planted one-row shelterbelt of flame willow trees. The trees are showing signs of having a high pH level (yellowing and smaller leaves). He would like to neutralize the soil. What would you recommend to amend the soil to lower the pH? (e-mail reference)

A: I promise you it would be an act of futility. Lowering the pH level in highly alkaline soils is like attempting to empty Lake Superior with a coffee cup! The soil should be tested for pH, N,P, K, soluble salts and possibly the iron and sulfur content. Deficiencies in nitrogen, iron or sulfur can cause the symptoms you describe. It would be easier to nail down the deficient element through testing. If it turns out to be a microelement, corrections can be made by adding chelated forms to the soil.

 

Q: I just read your answer in today’s column about nut trees in North Dakota. Are there any kinds of nut trees that will survive in western North Dakota? We live in a sheltered area. What varieties are the least likely to perish? (e-mail reference)

A: Black walnut would be good, but be sure the seed or plant source is from local stock, not from somewhere 200 miles south.

 

Q: I am moving to a new home and would like to take my 30-year-old Harrison apple tree with me. Is it possible to dig it out and transplant it at my new place? Would it work to have a tree mover move it? Would it be better to move it in the spring or fall? (Kulm, N.D.)

A: For a tree that old, get a professional tree mover to do the job. If possible, have the mover come this spring, before the tree leafs out. Prune the roots with his tree spade. Then, come back this fall, before the soil freezes, and have it moved. This will give the tree a chance to generate some new roots behind the cuts that the spade made, which may increase the chance of the tree’s survival.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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