April 20, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I bought a house two years ago. The previous owner had cherry tomatoes. After I planted my vegetables, I also got more cherry tomatoes. Is there a way to keep the killer cherry tomatoes from returning this year? (e-mail reference)

A: Presprout them by solarizing the soil with clear plastic before planting your garden. Once sprouted, they are easily cultivated out. There should be diminishing plant populations over the years anyway if you are not planting any more cherry tomatoes. The solarization should take care of any seed left in the soil and you can grow your veggies free of invading cherry tomatoes!

Q: I cut a branch off a paper birch. In the spring, the tree began to drip sap. I panicked and called the local nursery. They recommended using a pruning seal. I raced to the hardware store and bought some. I sprayed on the sealer, but it immediately melted off. I called the nursery again and they suggested using a pruning tar. Again I raced to the hardware store, but the tar applied melted off as well. After several tries, I gave up. Using water and a paper towel, I tried to dab off the residue. I searched the Web and saw your question-and-answer column and decided to leave the tree alone. Now, a little over a week later, the cut has a white, lumpy mold growing on the surface. Should I do anything? (e-mail reference)

A: Shame on the nursery for telling you to attempt to stop the flow of sap! It won't work, as you discovered. The mold that is growing is a saprophyte, not a parasite. This nonthreatening fungus is feeding on the carbohydrate-rich sap coming from the cut. It will disappear with time. If it is still present in June and the tree is leafed out, go ahead and make a fresh cut to facilitate healing. The tree will not bleed at that time. I assure you the birch tree will not suffer any dire consequences from this early spring cut.

Q: Is there a grass seed that will do well with very little water during the summer? (e-mail reference)

A: If you are asking about a grass seed, the answer is no. If you are asking about a grass species that you sow in the spring that will tolerate low moisture in the summer, the answer is yes. In northern regions, that would be fine or tall fescue and buffalo grass. These should survive, but will go dormant during extended periods without water.

Q: I dug up some geraniums, but left dirt around the roots and left some in pots. Now I'm wondering if I should cut them down even with the dirt and then fertilize. (Marion, N.D.)

A: Trim the geraniums back to about 3- to 4-inch stems and then water. Fertilize when you see new growth emerging.

Q: I am interested in propagating a grapevine. Would you please mail me a copy of the publication on this subject? (e-mail reference)

A: You can download the propagation bulletin faster than I can mail it to you. Go to www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257.pdf. Go to P. 7 of the publication and take a look at sketch No.16, which shows simple layering. This is the easiest and fastest way to propagate grapevines.

Q: Is there is a spray that will stop apple trees from bearing fruit? I have two apple trees that are old and diseased. They produce a lot of apples, but aren't in very good shape. The trees look nice, but make such a mess every year. (e-mail reference)

A: There are several sprays that can be used, but have varying rates of success. B-Nine, Cycocel and Ethrel are the most common sprays. None will be 100 percent effective and results vary depending on the variety, so don't be discouraged.

Q: I recently found a bottle of Miracle-Gro liquid houseplant food under my kitchen sink that I don't even remember buying! I'm guessing it's probably at least five years old. Is it still good to use on my houseplants or should I toss it? On an unrelated note, I received some cuttings of a variegated creeping ficus from a friend. Do you have any information about how to care for this plant? Most of the information I can find about ficus plants discusses the large, upright varieties. (e-mail reference)

A: The Miracle-Gro will be OK. The ficus you have is F. sagittata. Caring for it is the same as with other ficus plants. Ficus need bright light, but not direct sun. Water it moderately in spring and summer, but sparingly in winter. Mist the plant mostly while the central heating system is being used. Fertilize lightly while new growth is taking place.

Q: We have 12 apricot trees. When the trees were smaller, the rabbits would eat the trees, so in the spring the trees would grow from the roots. The trees are about 15 feet tall now, but don’t have a main trunk, only spindly branches coming from the root. Can I cut all of the branches except one of the stronger stems so it will grow and produce fruit? The rabbits still eat the bark as high as they can reach. (Nome, N.D.)

A: Go ahead and cut all the branches except one strong stem. Next fall, wrap the stem with paper or some other protection. Spray the portion that is not wrapped with Hinder or Plantskydd repellent.

Q: We are in the process of moving and would love to take a few tulips with us (for special reasons). Can I transfer the tulips into a pot until we move into our new house? The tulips have started to sprout. (e-mail reference)

A: You can try, but keep your expectations low. I have found that moving tulips after they have started growing is a loser, but perhaps you will have better luck. If possible, try to come back later in the spring, as the foliage turns yellow, to move them.

Q: I have a raspberry patch that came across the fence years ago from my neighbor. The patch used to produce lots of berries, but we've had water restrictions the last three years that hampered development, but the restrictions have ended. I used to cut the patch back in the fall, but was told not to. Now I don't know what is right. I do not know the variety. Do I cut the patch back in the fall? Since I didn't last fall, can I do it now? What fertilizer should I be using? Is there a way, except pulling, to get rid of the bindweed that has come? (e-mail reference)

A: Raspberry plants produce biennial canes, which means that the first year they are vegetative only and don't produce fruit. The second year, they flower and produce fruit, but then die. The plants that fruited for you last year can be removed because they are dead anyway. Those that were vegetative last year will or should produce fruit this season. It is best to get the old canes removed as soon as possible. Most people get around to it in the fall after a couple of hard frosts. Carefully spraying the bindweed with Roundup eventually will take it out. The operative word is "carefully" because the Roundup also could take out the raspberries. A 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 fertilizer applied as new growth starts showing is all that is needed.

Q: A couple of years ago I put a raised flowerbed in my backyard. We brought some top soil in from our farm and I planted tulips and perennials in it. Last fall I wanted to plant some more tulips, but the soil was so hard I couldn't get a hole dug. Is there anything I can add to the soil to loosen it? I don't want to dig everything up if I don't have to. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. I have learned more from your columns than anywhere else. It's the first thing I look for when our paper comes. (Ashley, N.D.)

A: Sandy loam is always the best soil to use for raised beds. Add a lot of organic matter, preferably in the form of sphagnum peat moss. Work the organic matter into the bed, but don't worry about adding too much. Keep working it into the soil until it gets to the consistency with which you want to work. Avoid sand unless you are able to make the proportion of sand 80 percent or better. Thank you for the nice comment about the column. I appreciate you being a faithful reader and I am glad you find the information useful!

Q: This year and last, you spoke at the Bismarck Garden Club and talked about navigator creeping red grass seed. I wanted to make sure I wrote down the right name. You also talked about a place in Fargo that sold the seed. I thought it was Agassiz. I am going to Fargo next week and would like to pick up the seed. If you could let me know the place that you mentioned, I would appreciate it. (e-mail reference)

A: It is navigator creeping red fescue and can be purchased at Agassiz Seed in West Fargo, which is at 445 7th St. N.W. Its phone number is (701) 282-8118. It only sells the seed in 50- pound bags.

Q: I have a peace lily that I need to transplant. What kind of soil do they need? (e-mail reference)

A: Peace lilies are tropical plants and need soil that is rich in organic matter. Any houseplant soil that is high in organic matter would be ideal. Anything that says on the package that it is good for flowering plants, such as African violets or gloxinias, would be suitable for peace lilies as well.

Q: I am getting ready to plant some Colorado blue spruce trees. I am planning on using some Miracle-Gro for trees and shrubs around the plants. The type I will be using is supposed to last three months. I used this fertilizer around some arborvitae that I planted and it seemed to help.
Will this Miracle-Gro fertilizer be OK for blue spruce? I heard there is something I can put around the trees to make sure they keep their blue tint. (e-mail reference)

A: Any fertilizer that will aid arborvitae likewise will help Colorado spruce. As to the blue tint, I don't know of anything that can be used, unless it is an acid-based fertilizer.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor: Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu

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