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June 1, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: Three trees in my front lawn were uprooted during a storm last August. The trees were removed after a couple of days. As a result, my lawn is now bumpy and very uneven. What is the best and easiest way to smooth out my lawn? Do I have to till and replant the grass or can I simply add topsoil and reseed? Grass is growing, but will not be easy to mow because of the uneven yard. I’d appreciate your help and love your Web site! (Brooklyn Park, Minn.)

A: Thank you for the nice compliment about the Web site! The best approach is to get some high-quality topsoil (loam or sandy loam) and spread it over the depressed area. Reseed if it covers the existing grass. Simple, inexpensive and effective!

 

Q: Three or four years ago, I moved a small sapling growing in our yard to a bed along the side of my house. It is a great tree, but I’d like to move it to a spot that would give us some much-needed shade. It’s about 16 feet tall. How wide and deep should I plan for the size of the rootball? (e-mail reference)

A: Get a professional tree mover to do the work for you. The mover will make it a piece of cake and be done in a matter of minutes. The mover probably will use a TS-44 to move a tree that size, which will provide for a good-sized rootball. Check the mover’s credentials and ask for references.

 

Q: I have six hybrid roses that I planted along the fence of my front yard. I tried to use a plant screen to keep the grass down, but it got infested with ants, so I took it out and mulched it. Now the grass is really growing around the roses. I need a suggestion as to what will kill the grass, but not hurt the roses. (e-mail reference)

A: Visit a local garden center and look for a product called "Grass Killer" put out by the Hi-Yield company. The active ingredient is sethoxydim, so if the company name is not easily found, look on the label of other grass killers to see if the active ingredient is the same. Follow the directions on the label and you will get selective control of the grass without hurting your roses.

 

Q: I don't want suckering plants that are hard to control. Will Hansen's bush cherries sucker? I haven't found anything on the Web that specifically addresses this issue. I've planted two Montmorency cherries and two North Star cherries. Thanks to your Web pages, I just returned two Canada red chokecherries because of the terrible time many people seem to have with black knot disease. However, with two different types of sour cherries and with the potential for me to also plant another prunus in the Hansen's bush cherry, will the density of the prunus species make them more at risk for diseases such as black knot? We're in a new housing development, so there are not many trees. (e-mail reference)

A: I don't think you have to worry about the Hansen bush cherry. All cherries will sucker if given the opportunity. That opportunity comes from being planted too deeply, excessively pruned or physically damaged. As for the black knot, you should be safe for about the next 10 to 20 years until the population builds up in your development. Black knot can be controlled pre-emptively with fungicidal sprays, such as a Bordeaux mixture or Funginex.

 

Q: I've researched, with no luck, to find out if it is safe to have arborvitae in a horse pasture. (e-mail reference)

A: It isn't listed in any of my poisonous plant references as being toxic. Besides, the deer feast on arborvitae anytime they can find it!

 

Q: I’ve had problems with my strawberry plants for the last four years. I have used Roundup and started over. I also have powdered the plants with Sevin. Last year I noticed a lot of ants in the plants and roots. I treated the plants to kill the ants and did not eat any of the fruit because of all the chemicals I used. I also noticed an ant problem in my grass. I am very frustrated and this year the strawberries are looking terrible right from the start. I pulled a few plants and noticed ants on the roots again. Do you have any suggestions? I would appreciate any advice. (e-mail reference)

A: It is apparent that the ants like the strawberry bed, so I would suggest getting rid of the berries to deprive them of such a cozy environment. Four years is a pretty long time to expect strawberries to go without a problem or two. Usually it is lygus bugs or a virus that get to them in that period of time. It is recommended that gardeners replant strawberries after three years to avoid frustrations. If you have another place to start a new berry bed, go ahead and do so. Buy fresh plants from a commercial supplier. Then get a commercial pest control operator to get rid of these critters. It sounds like you are going to be carried away by them!

 

Q: A large limb broke off of our maple tree during the 2005 Thanksgiving ice storm. It ripped the bark off the trunk as it came down. The tree has leafed out. Should we try to paint the large wound? If so, what kind of paint should we use? I looked at a small can of pruning paint and laughed. I would need a case of it. Thanks! (e-mail reference)

A: No painting needed. If the tree is going to recover, it will do just fine without paint. In fact, the tree will do better without paint!

 

Q: I have a question about cutting lilacs from a bush and putting them in a vase. What is the best way to help them last longer? Do I need to put anything in the water? I have a lilac bush and tulips that I put in the same vase because the flowers make my house smell great, but I want to know what would make the flowers last longer. (e-mail reference)

A: Go to a florist and ask for a packet of flower extender. The florist will give it to you or charge a small fee. Changing the water every day also will extend the life of the flowers. Moving them to a dark, cool location at the end of the day also works well.

 

Q: I love flowers, but I am not very knowledgeable about them. Last summer I bought a calla lily plant that had some flowers growing. It continued to grow quite nicely! At the end of June, I left for a week. When I got back, the plant was seriously lacking water. I tried and tried to help it, but I thought for sure it was a lost cause. About two weeks ago, I purchased a clematis to plant in that same pot I used last year for the lily plant. While digging the hole to plant it, I hit a bulb. It was moist and had many roots coming out of it. As I continued to poke around, I found three more and one really tiny bulb. They all had roots growing out of them and they were fairly moist. I had thought that spring was the time for lilies to be growing out of the dirt, so I am not sure if these bulbs are healthy. I repotted all of the bulbs in two pots. What do you think my chances are of these bulbs producing plants and flowering? If you think it is a strong possibility, when do you think I can expect to see something? (e-mail reference)

A: For lilies to die down is normal. You actually pushed the lily into a dormant period. The bulbs should be ready to come out. Increase the watering to keep the soil moist and place the containers in a sunny window. I don't gamble and don't try to predict plant behavior when I am not directly involved in caring for it. I would say that success depends on how patient you are. If nothing has started growing after 30 days, I would dump the bulbs.

 

Q: For Easter, I received a lovely basket containing daffodils, hyacinth and tulips. The flowers have now died. Can I transplant them in my yard for next year? If so, how would I go about doing this? They are in little, individual pots. I don't know if I made a mistake, but I did cut the dead flowers off. I thought I read somewhere that if you leave the flowers on, the plants will start to seed, therefore not giving any nourishment to the bulb for next year. Should I dump the plants or is there still hope? (e-mail reference)

A: You are doing OK. Allow the foliage to die down naturally. Keep the plants watered and in sunlight until then. Once the foliage has dried, remove it and store the bulbs in a cool, dark location until this fall. Sometime around Sept. 1 through 15, plant the bulbs outdoors where you want them. The plants should bloom for you next spring.

 

Q: I have three large spruce trees in my front yard that have been diagnosed with spider mites. I also have a blue spruce and another spruce tree in the side yard. We love these trees for the privacy they provide. The three large trees were planted in the 1950s. We would hate to lose these trees because there's no way they could be replaced. I'm guessing they are 50 to 60 feet tall. We were given an estimate from the company to apply a commercial insecticide. The insecticide would be applied twice, 14 days apart. What is the appropriate treatment for spruce spider mites? Is this something we can purchase and apply ourselves? The problem is getting access to the tops of the trees. Also, should I be concerned about these pests migrating to other trees? What is the life expectancy of these trees? I'm hoping they will be around long after I'm gone. (e-mail reference)

A: Actually, a strong spray of water will keep the spider mites in check. If you can get a high pressure hose that will reach the top of the tree and give it a thorough spraying with just water, it would be about as effective as using a miticide. Also, mites cannot build resistance to water as they can to a miticide! Unless the trees have some other deadly affliction that is undetected, the tree should outlast you easily.

 

Q: I'm a novice gardener and recently came across your Web site. I started tomatoes from seed and on the package it said to transplant the seedlings once they had two pairs of leaves. I planted all of the seeds in one big pot because I didn't anticipate that all of them would come up! I waited until they had two pairs of leaves, which I assumed were the first leaves and then the true leaves. The first leaves have started yellowing and I'm worried that I might have killed my plants. Should I have waited longer? Any advice you might have on growing tomatoes from seed would be much appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: Those first two leaves are called seed leaves or cotyledons. It is normal for the cotyledons to gradually die after the true leaves open up. Wait about two more weeks before planting outside, unless you live much farther south than North Dakota. Watch out for late-spring frosts because tomatoes are not tolerant of frost. If a frost is predicted, then cover the plants with an old sheet or newspaper for protection.

 

Q: I'm interested in getting a peace lily. I have a dog, so I’m wondering if peace lilies are poisonous to dogs. The dog tends to chew on everything, so I wanted to make sure before I bought the plant. (e-mail reference)

A: While not specifically listed in my poisonous plant references, the plant's family (Araceae) is listed as containing high levels of calcium oxalate, which can cause irritation of the mouth and tongue tissue. I would advise against getting this plant if the dog cannot be stopped from nibbling, so you don't have a panic veterinarian bill to pay!

 

Q: I would like to know how to start a new bush from a very old hydrangea bush that my grandmother had. It is at least 50 years old and still growing. (e-mail reference)

A: Hydrangeas root fairly easily from softwood cuttings taken in May through July. Stick them in a sand/peat mix (50/50) and keep them moist. Keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight until they root, which should take six or more weeks.

 

Q: I have some questions regarding crown of thorns and mammilaria pilcayensis. My crown of thorns is growing wonderfully and getting new leaves, but not blooming. I fertilized it recently and it sits at a west window. The mammilaria also is at the west window. It is growing, but not blooming. I water them every two weeks with a special fertilizer for cacti. What can I do to make them bloom? (e-mail reference)

A: Both will bloom in good time, so be patient. Don't overwater and don't add fertilizer until you see new growth or right after they’ve flowered.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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