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June 22, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I have noticed that some of the old leaves on my jade plant look wrinkled, but the new leaves look perfectly healthy. I have not moved the plant or changed anything else out of the ordinary. Any ideas what could be wrong or is this normal? (e-mail reference)

A: There is seldom anything "normal" in the dying of an organism. You might want to check my Web site at www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/houseplnts/jade.htm for lots of information on jade plants.

 

Q: I have a fiddle leaf that I have had for many years in the same pot. I would like to move the tree to a larger pot and possibly tie the branches in a way to help them from tipping over. Do you have any suggestions on how to relocate the tree in a new pot? (e-mail reference)

A: Do some pruning to cut down on damage to the branches. Then lift or knock the plant out of the pot and then plant the tree in a larger pot using fresh potting soil. It is a piece of cake.

 

Q: Until two years ago, my apple tree was my pride and joy, but now I get many cotton-type buds along the branches. I can blow them off, but they keep returning. Some of the apples go bad and fall off. (e-mail reference)

A: The tree has a cottony cushion scale or spittlebug problem. Either way, horticultural oil will take care of them. Just follow the directions on the label.

 

Q: I am getting brown spots on my arborvitae. These bushes have a gold tip on the end. (e-mail reference)

A: Based on the information provided, I cannot advise you. I suggest visiting my Web site on arborvitae at www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/tree/arbrvtae.htm to see if you can find information about your problem.

 

Q: I was looking at information on peonies and transplanting because I would like to relocate six plants. The plants are very full and almost made a small hedge last summer. I would like to move the peonies now, but if there is a chance I might kill the plants, I will wait until fall. However, as you said, life is short and seasons seem to pass quicker. I have a plan for these peonies and I would like to implement it this year. In one of your answers, you said transplanting is generally recommended in fall, but you have had good luck doing it now. When is now? I would hate to plunge ahead and find out I am reading something outdated. Thank you for your help. (e-mail reference)

A: That would have been about two to three weeks ago in North Dakota. It is too late to move the plants now because they have emerged and would wilt and die if moved at this stage. I had to tell my wife the same thing this weekend, so you are not alone.

 

Q: Is there a spray that will make the fruit seed of an ash sterile? I have hundreds of saplings growing in the yard, so it is quite a task to remove them. (e-mail reference)

A: There is, but it is difficult for a homeowner to apply. You are better off hiring a professional arborist to do the application for you. Such applications, even when timed correctly, only give about 50 percent control.

 

Q: I have autumn clematis that grows beautifully all summer. However, this year the buds set, but then dried up on the still growing vine. Last year I replaced the old and falling apart trellis. The plant does not seem to be wrapping around the trellis very well. Could this be the problem? I am mystified and obsessed by this problem. Can you help me? Thanks. (e-mail reference)

A: You might be thanking me too soon because I'm not sure what the problem is with your clematis. The plant needs alkaline soil and cool roots, which usually is accomplished with a little mulch. I don't think the trellis has anything to do with the problem.

 

Q: I would like to replant many of my fall bulbs (daffodils and hyacinths). The plants have bloomed and are planted under trees and bushes. I would like to dig them up now because I know where the flowers are and then transplant them to better locations. (e-mail reference)

A: Mark where they are or be a little more patient and dig them as soon as the foliage turns yellow. If you dig them up now, the foliage will wilt and you probably won’t get any flowers next year.

 

Q: I have a question about my paper birch. The kids next door ripped off half the bark on one side of the tree. The tree seems to be doing fine, but it is older and probably more resilient. Is there anything I can put on the exposed wood to help the tree grow back the bark? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes, tie those obnoxious kids to the tree until it heals! Just kidding of course, but the tree should be able to heal itself without anything being done to it other than keeping the kids away. Healthy trees can compartmentalize wounds better without any interference from us. Tell the kids they have attacked one of my favorite trees and I will not put up with them doing that! I have a special punishment for thoughtless people who deliberately vandalize trees.

 

Q: About four years ago, I received a lilac bush from my mother-in-law for Mother's Day. The lilac keeps getting better and better, but it has yet to bloom. Each year it gets a little taller and has more and more green leaves on it. I've never done anything to it since it was planted. Should it be pruned? Please help. I'm terrible with plants, but I really want to get better because we're finally landscaping around the new house we built. That leads me to my hydrangeas. I purchased two forever pink and one PG hydrangea that I want to plant in one area and five Sister Theresa hydrangeas to be planted somewhere else. How far apart should I plant them? Any tips would be appreciated. When will they start to bloom? (e-mail reference)

A: The lilac may not be blooming because it is getting too much shade or nitrogen-rich fertilizer. You might be able to stimulate it to set flower buds by driving a straightedge spade into the ground around the edge of the spread of the foliage. Do that in about six places. This mildly shocks the plant into a reproductive cycle. I would suggest planting the hydrangeas about three to four feet apart. They are among the easiest plants on earth to grow. Plant them at the right depth, keep them watered, but not soggy, and they should bloom for you.

 

Q: I purchased six hydrangeas about three weeks ago. They are single-flower plants in a pink coloration. Five of the six seem OK, but the sixth is losing its color and looks sick. The flowers are planted next to the house in a mostly shaded area. How can I rejuvenate this plant and how should I fertilize the others? Will they always be single-flowered plants? Will a new bloom replace the existing one or will I have to wait until next year? The shop I purchased the plants from does not have any answers. (e-mail reference)

A: I'd find a new place to purchase plant material in the future. The sick plant may be past saving. Prune it and give it a shot of Miracle-Gro or something similar. These plants will always be single flower. Depending on the type of hydrangea, the blooms may be replaced with new ones. Some cultivars will do both, but only time will tell. Be patient.

 

Q: I have read your answers regarding black knot. In most cases, you recommend removing the infected tree. I have a Schubert chokecherry tree that is old and close to 30-feet tall, so it would be a shame to lose it. It has developed black knot on a number of small, young shoots, but not on any main branches. I neglected to prune the tree during the dormant season. The tree has just started blooming. Should I be pruning out the black knot at this point or should I wait until winter? If now is a good time to prune, do you have any suggestions on how to do it? I've been told that I should be rinsing my pruning shears with a mild bleach solution after each cut to avoid spreading the disease. (e-mail reference)

A: Please, prune it as soon as possible. Cut back beyond the black knot by at least six or more inches to be sure you are not cutting into any infected tissue. Bleach is tough on pruning shears. Alcohol is better, but not the kind you drink of course. Use good, old-fashioned rubbing alcohol. Spray the tree with a Bordeaux mixture at least twice a year about 10 to 14 days apart.

 

Q: I care for a woman more than 100 years old who wanted me to plant her some peony plants last year. I did it knowing they would not flower for the first year and she might not live to see the flowers. Last week I took her out to see them and showed her the three buds that would be opening in the near future. Last night, after I came to work, I found someone had picked the buds and put them in a vase of water. Are they going to bloom? I asked the little lady if she knew something about peonies that I didn't because she had buds in the vase. She said it was a dirty trick!

I don't know if I can tell her that the peonies will open. Should I drop the subject and hope she forgets about the plants? What a disappointment! (e-mail reference)

A: If the buds are too tight, they may not open. I certainly cannot tell from an e-mail message. At this stage in her life, I would drop the subject. Find out if a neighbor has some peonies they could donate to put in her vase and enjoy. If not, forget it. There is no sense causing any more stress than necessary.

 

Q: I accidentally sprayed portions of my large, beautiful phlox with Weed-B-Gone. The entire plant is not dead, but the large center area is brown and appears to be dead. I have tried saturating the plant with water once a week. It has been 2 1/2 weeks and I am worried that I will have to replace the whole plant. It's beautiful and has been growing for four years. Can you recommend anything to save the plant? Will it come back next year? (e-mail reference)

A: The only answer I can give you is to wait and see. Once the herbicide has been absorbed by the plant, very little can be done to reverse the action.

 

Q: Is it possible to plant hostas under evergreen trees? Is there any type of ground cover that works under evergreens? Thanks for the information. (e-mail reference)

A: Planting hostas under evergreen trees happens all the time. Depending on where you live, so are many other ground covers.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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