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June 29, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I had a landscaper move a Japanese red maple tree about 10 feet. It has been a week and the leaves are starting to dry up. I was told to give it lots of water and I used some fertilizer tree spikes.When we moved it, we made sure the hole was big enough, but not too deep. The landscaper filed the hole with soil and put mulch on top. The landscaper told me not to worry because the tree is in shock, so I was told to keep watering it and the tree would come back. Is there anything else I should do? Should I water the tree daily, twice a day or every other day? Should I be using anything else? (e-mail reference)

A: Don't overwater the tree! Soaking the tree once a week is fine in most instances. The objective should be to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Forget the fertilizer spikes because they are a waste of money. It remains to be seen if the tree will recover from the move. Ideally, it should have been moved while it was dormant, not freshly leafed out.

 

Q: I have been reading about schefflera plants. I have a schefflera that I water once a week. However, some leaves fall off almost every day. I figured out that direct sunlight is bad, so I moved it. Do you have any other suggestions? You mentioned strong, indirect sunlight, but what is that? (e-mail reference)

A: Strong, indirect sunlight means that you keep the plant just outside of the reach of direct light.

 

Q: I am looking for design plans for an elevated gardening bed. The care facility at Rolette is interested in building gardening stands that residents in wheelchairs could garden. Could you direct me to plans for raised beds that would accommodate wheel chairs and also recommendations on what soil mixture to use? (e-mail reference)

A: One book has it all. The book is "Square Foot Gardening" by Mel Bartholomew. It is available in book stores.

 

Q: I am cutting lilacs for my wedding and need to know where on the branch to cut. I do not want to damage the tree or discourage it from blooming in the future. (e-mail reference)

A: Cut it anywhere you wish in order to get the flowers. The lilac will send out new growth after the blooms fade and then set new flower buds for next year. Get the cutting done as soon as possible.

 

Q: Thank you very much for the helpful information included in the article about popular peonies. I enjoy peonies very much for sentimental reasons. I brought two plants from my old house to where I now live. The previous owner also had several, which I have moved to various locations. This year, however, most of the plants are not blooming, which is bothersome. Your article was the first that provided solutions. Thank you! Do you have a regular gardening e-letter? Please add me to your distribution list if you have such a publication. Keep up the good work! (e-mail reference)

A: Hortiscope is published weekly and can be found at www.ag.ndsu.edu and then click on news topic.

 

Q: We share a 20-year-old lilac bush on our property line with our neighbor. For more privacy, our neighbor has tied a few of the branches near the top of the bush down to the ground so the branches are bowed over. I am concerned that the bending pressure is going to stress the plant. Will this kill the plant or prevent blooming? Thanks for your help. (e-mail reference)

A: The only major stress would be the material the neighbor tied to the branches. The neighbor or you need to keep an eye on the bush to make sure that it doesn't start to girdle or chaff the bark on the branches. I suggest that the two of you go shopping for another lilac to fill that spot. It must look weird to see the shrub bent over. The aesthetics of another plant would complement both properties.

 

Q: A lady called me about eating avocado seeds. Are they edible? Can they be used for anything other than growing other avocado plants? (e-mail reference)

A: Do not eat the seeds because avocado seeds and leaves are considered poisonous.

 

Q: I was pulling up what I thought was grass in my garden, but then I noticed a bulb on the end of it. I planted a bunch of tulip bulbs, which I did not think would come up because of their age. Could it be the tulips that I am pulling up? I stopped pulling it up, but I have a ton of it growing. (e-mail reference)

A: If it is a grasslike plant with a small bulb at the end, it is probably nutsedge, which is a weed.

 

Q: For our bushes, my husband wants to buy wood chips and tree shreds from a company that cuts down trees and use the materials as mulch. We would put down a plastic weed guard for control and then cover it with the mixture of wood chips. The company has free delivery. Any problem with this plan? (e-mail reference)

A: If I was the company, I also would deliver at no cost! You are saving them disposal charges, but you will benefit, too. Keep in mind that you don't want to lay plastic for weed control. Buy a woven geotextile material that will allow air and water to penetrate. Keep the mulch layer no thicker than 2 to 3 inches. If you go thicker, you begin running into anaerobic problems in the root zone. Keep an eye on the plants because uncomposted wood chips tend to tie up available nitrogen to the plants. If at all possible, try to compost the chips for three to four months before applying. This is to get the internal temperature up to pasteurization levels that will kill most harmful organisms (insects and diseases).

 

Q: I have a question concerning arborvitae. We sold and installed 10 super-nice techny pyramidal arborvitaes last fall. The plants looked green and lush at the time. The client called me to take a look at the plants today. The arborvitaes look haggard. The plants have a lot of browning, especially on the south side. I suspect sun damage, although he sprayed them with Wilt-Pruf late in the fall. This problem seems to occur every year. What can be done about it? Is there a chemical, fertilizer or some product that could be sprayed on the trees to bring the plants back? Is it going to take wrapping them in burlap to protect them during the winter? (e-mail reference)

A: This is the most commonly asked question about arborvitae. It is winter desiccation that is causing the discoloration. For now, this is a problem your client will have to accept. In nearly every case, the arborvitae recovers. I would stay away from using Wilt-Pruf in the future because the product doesn’t seem to do arborvitae any good for some reason. A couple of tricks can be used before winter to help minimize winter damage. Don't baby these plants with perpetual watering right up to freeze-up and do not fertilize the plants any more than absolutely necessary. The objective is to get them "conditioned" for the winter by slowing or stopping cell growth, getting the cell protoplasm more viscous and less apt to be lost to winter desiccation.

Also, take some wooden stakes and build an open-top tepee around the arborvitae. In this case, build it along the south side of the plants to intercept the direct rays of the sun from raising the foliage temperature to the point of causing transpiration. These plants are native to North America and established ones put up with the continent's worst weather and barely shed a single bit of foliage. It is the overly cautious action with good intentions that we pursue the establishment and growth of these trees. We simply keep them too soft. I would advise that after August, additional water should not be applied. If it rains, so be it. By that time, the plant is reading the shortening days and beginning to close down physiologically for winter. We "confuse" the plants by attempting to overwater and using those blasted fertilizer spikes! I hope this explanation (tirade?) helps!

 

Q: Do you know if hollyhocks are safe for animals to eat? Our horse seems to love them, but I can't find anything in horse literature if they are safe to eat. (e-mail reference)

A: Hollyhocks are not listed as a poisonous plant to animals. That means that hollyhocks are not poisonous or that no data has been recorded on them being so.

 

Q: I read that you have suggested getting a certified arborist from the International Society of Arboriculture to get rid of quaking Aspen. I had some people come last year and take out six of my quaking Aspen. Yesterday, I went out to work in that area and removed the ground cloth. Under the cloth, I found many Aspen roots. Most of the roots were 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick. It was like a nightmare. I only worked in a small section, but my back is hurting and I really didn't accomplish much. I need help getting rid of it. Can a regular landscaper do the job? Would using Trimec work for me? Is it found in local nurseries? I have another quick question. My dad read something about growing tomato plants upside down. I tried it, but the plant didn't thrive and quickly dried out. Any suggestions on what I did wrong? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes to your questions. Trimec will kill the roots when applied to the suckers. Hire a landscaping company to remove those roots. They usually have crews of young people whose backs are more nimble than anyone older than 40 and can get the job done quickly. There is a gimmick unit that you can purchase somewhere to grow tomatoes upside down, but why in blue blazes would anyone want to do that? Save your money and grow them the conventional way and enjoy their goodness.

 

Q: I have a horrible problem with morning glory/bindweed. It is invading my yard and the roots seem to never end. Is there a solution to getting rid of this monster? (e-mail reference)

A: Do repeat applications of Trimec.

 

Q: Everything I read is so contradictory. Are nightcrawlers a good thing to have in a healthy lawn? I have found a few dead spots in my lawn lately and wonder if the problem is caused by nightcrawlers. (e-mail reference)

A: Like most things in life, having some nightcrawlers is a good thing, but having too many can cause mowing and even walking problems. Dead spots in your lawn can be caused by beetle grubs, dog urine, ice encasement during winter, fertilizer spill or overapplication and any number of diseases.

 

Q: At my place of employment, there was a beautiful buckeye tree. Last fall, as the nuts fell off, I collected some to bring home to see if the squirrels would eat them. I put the nuts on the tray of a bird feeder and they all disappeared. This spring, as I was preparing my flower beds, I found a plant that I didn't recognize. I dug it up and found attached to the roots a nut from a buckeye tree. I promptly found a place for it and planted it. I found six more of these baby buckeye trees and also planted a second one. So far, both trees are thriving. I guess the squirrels were burying the nuts instead of eating them. I thought this tidbit might be interesting to other gardeners wondering if the nuts (seeds) will grow. I love your Web site because I have learned a lot from it. (Grafton, N.D.)

A: Thanks for the kind words. Yes, squirrels are "nature's landscapers." Their intent is to bury nuts as a future food source. However, like humans, they forget where they put half of what they hide!

 

Q: Can tulips grow through new sod or do I have to relocate them in the fall? (e-mail reference)

A: Tulips can grow through new sod.

 

Q: I enjoyed reading your Hortiscope articles very much. The column is a great resource for a beginning gardener, especially the information on lilacs. I now know I'm not alone in almost killing these tough beauties. I have two Miss Kim lilacs that were planted in the wrong location last spring. The soil was heavy clay with poor drainage. We installed a French drain along the bed and hoped that would help. The plants struggled for most of last year, with shriveled leaves on almost bare branches. Several of the branches died. I pruned the rest of the branches down to 3-inch stumps last fall. This spring, the lilacs put out nice green leaves, bloomed for a few days and promptly turned brown! When I checked two weeks ago, there was a puddle of standing water in the planting hole. My guess is the lilacs were drowning after extensive spring rains, so I moved them to another spot and planted them on a raised mound. Since the lilacs were recently moved, should I heavily prune the plants to rejuvenate growth? The plants do not have leaves, but the branches have some green under the bark. With all that has happened to these lilacs, can they survive? (e-mail reference)

A: The plants are reacting to the trauma of being moved and flooded. As long as the cambium is still green beneath the bark, there is a chance for recovery. Don't overwater or prune anything and certainly don't fertilize. If the plants are going to recover, they will with normal care.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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