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August 24, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: The bark is coming off my honey locust tree. The tree seems to be rotting and has small holes in it. There are some ants on it by the holes. Can you tell me what’s wrong and what I should do? (e-mail reference)

A: It doesn't sound good. The problem could be bark beetles or borers. You have to make a judgment call to decide if the tree is worth trying to save. Use Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control (Merit) as a drench around the base of the tree. The product is taken up and translocated systemically through the tree's vascular system to get an effective kill. There is a chance the tree may recover after using the product. Be sure to follow label directions.

 

Q: I have a question about my potatoes. I have one plant with three small "fruits" the size of cherry tomatoes. What are they? (e-mail reference)

A: These are the potato fruits. Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant are in the same family. The fruit is not edible, so don't eat it. The fruit will not interfere with tuber development under the soil.

 

Q: Is your publication, "Amaryllis Care in the Home," available for download? If not, how can I get a copy? (e-mail reference)

A: The publication is available at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h811.pdf. Thanks for the interest!

 

Q: I had a client bring me a poplar tree sample. The leaves turn brown and leathery before falling off. The infected leaves start to yellow from the outside edge. When you cut open the ball on the leaf, it is full of little bugs in various stages of life. The mature bugs have wings and look like green fruit flies. Any information on what these bugs are and how to control them would be great. (e-mail reference)

A: This is a case of the "barn door" syndrome. There is nothing that can be done at this time. Next spring, prior to leafing out, have the tree spayed with dormant oil. This will kill the emerging insects and their overwintering eggs. Cottonwoods are tough plants once they are established, so the tree probably will come back OK.

 

Q: I have a silver maple that is having problems. The tree is about 18 years old. This spring, it put out a huge number of seeds (it never had seeds before), which I understand is not a good thing. Many of the inner leaves started to wither and die. Any idea what this is and if I need to be concerned? (e-mail reference)

A: This looks like tar spot, which is a fungal disease that occasionally hits silver maples. I suspect the tree has more serious problems because this particular fungus is not lethal to most trees, unless the infection is very heavy. You might want to get a sample of the foliage and send it to the NDSU Plant Diagnostic Lab for analysis. Send the sample to Waldron Hall, P.O. box 5012, Fargo, ND 58105.

 

Q: I have hydrangea bushes that have a white, fungus-type disease growing on the bark. It is brilliant white in color and clustered over the bark. Any ideas? (e-mail reference)

A: This could be a fungus or cottony cushion scale. You need to determine which or just cut off the infected/infested branches and dispose. Hydrangeas are great at coming back from the crown.

 

Q: We have a few stalks of lucky bamboo in our house. The stalks have grown a little out of control. How do I prune them without killing the bamboo? Can I replant the trimmed stalks? The plant is in water. Any help will be appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: You should be able cut back the stalks and root the cut pieces.

 

Q: I had your Hortiscope column Web site on my favorites list, but I have been unable to access the page recently. Is the problem on my end or did your Web address change? (e-mail reference)

A: To my knowledge, nothing has changed, but in case it has been a subtle one, the address is
www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/contents.htm. Thanks for your continued interest.

 

Q: I am very happy to have found your Web site because it has all sorts of great information.

I purchased a bird's nest fern as a houseplant. I replanted it in organic potting soil the day I bought it and fertilized it once (I've had it about a month now). It is miserable. Its color is fading and a few of the leaves look burned on the edges. The plant has not grown (I can see a new leaf ready to unfurl at the inside base, but it is completely dormant). I'm almost sure it is salt-burned because salt residue comes out the base of the terra cotta pot when I water, but I don't know how to remedy that. Also, I'm unsure of how much light it requires. I have it in a medium (no direct sun) setting. (e-mail reference)

A: Keep the water coming to leach out the salts. If necessary, use distilled water to accelerate the leaching process. Ferns need fertilization often, but use very little each time. Try misting the foliage with distilled water on a regular basis.

 

Q: The leaves on several of my trees are falling off. It seems like there are webs on them, with little aphids or bugs. What can I use to spray the trees? Are they in danger of dying? (Binford, N.D.)

A: It is doubtful that your trees will expire from this one-time defoliation, but the problem should not go unattended. Based on your description, I cannot tell what the insect is that is doing the feeding. I suggest you obtain a broad-spectrum insecticide, such as Sevin, that is approved for garden or fruit tree use. It should control the problem. Next spring, before leafing out takes place, spray the trees with dormant oil to kill off overwintering eggs and cocoons.

 

Q: I planted a white ash last September. This summer, numerous shoots grew and circled the base of the tree. I assume the shoots are coming off the rootball. Should I trim these back or is this a part of the growing process? Could this be an indication that the tree has a problem? The leaves on the shoots are larger than the leaves on the branches. Thank you for your help and your Web site is very informative. (Dickinson, N.D.)

A: These are suckers coming from the crown of the rootball. It could be an indication of something wrong with the tree because ash trees typically do not sucker in this fashion. Get some Sucker Stopper RTU from a local garden center or supply store. Cut the suckers back as far as possible and then spray the cut surfaces with the sucker stopper. The tree will stop suckering for the remainder of the growing season. Thanks for the nice comment about the Web site!

 

Q: I have lots of black oak trees. When the wind blows fairly strongly, small clumps of leaves from the end of the branches break off and litter the yard. The branches are hollow, so I cut a branch to inspect it and found a worm inside. What type of worm is this and can I do anything to prevent the problem? (Berwick, N.D.)

A: This is a stem borer problem, but I cannot say what type of borer it is without an examination. Get some Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control. It is a systemic that will kill any further intruders, such as the one you described. The material is available at local garden stores.

 

Q: I have three evergreen trees bushes or shrubs (I don't know what to call them) close to the house. They were here when we bought the house 25 years ago. Two have flat, soft needle formations spread out, such as a hand. The trees are producing some sort of seed on their sunny side. The other tree has short, spike needles and small, dark-blue berries. It also is bare on the side next to the house. One tree has grown taller than the eaves, so I want to trim it. Can this be done in the heat of the summer or should I wait until fall or spring? (Williston, N.D.)

A: It sounds like you are talking about junipers and arborvitaes. Pruning now, with the hot temperatures, is not the best time. You are better off trimming in early spring to give the cuts a chance to heal quickly.

 

Q: About a year ago, you really helped us with a lawn problem. Now we have a problem with a mountain ash tree. We have two trees in our front yard. One is fine, but the leaves on the other tree have started turning yellow and the tops of the leaves look rusty. Any help would be greatly appreciated. (Tioga, N.D.)

A: Glad to help. The tree is showing signs of iron chlorosis. Correct the problem with an application of chelated iron in water-soluble form. Spray it on the foliage and under the tree canopy. If you are unable to locate this material, look for Miracle-Gro that is for rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. It will temporarily acidify the soil and make the iron available to the plant. Hopefully, you are catching the problem in time to save the tree.

 

Q: Many of the leaves on my tomato plants began to yellow and the green tomatoes that were emerging began splitting on the bottom. The tomatoes were smaller than golf balls when this began happening. It appears that new fruit also is affected. We recently had heavy rains, so I am wondering if that might have something to do with it. (e-mail reference)

A: No doubt about it. Tomatoes need a rather consistent supply of water in order to produce well and not split. When it doesn't rain, the gardener must accept the responsibility of providing adequate water for normal growth.

 

Q: Due to the dry conditions, I have been watering my garden more than usual, but the water is high in sodium. It seems as though my plants reach a point where they stalemate. I'm assuming it’s from the high sodium in the water. What, if anything, can I fertilize with or put on my garden to counteract the sodium problem? (Kensal, N.D.)

A: Nothing, except distilled or high-quality (low-sodium) water. Don't fertilize because that will compound the problem. Hope for some good soaking rains to come soon!

 

Q: Is it a good idea to fertilize tomatoes as they set fruit or will it result in more foliage? The plants are huge and look healthy. Also, my neighbor has a plum tree that is sending up many shoots in my yard. If I spray them, will it damage her tree? If not, what should I use? They are a real nuisance! Thanks for your advice. I enjoy your column and find it helpful. (Fargo, N.D.)

A: Regular fertilization with a balanced fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro, will improve growth and fruit set. As long as they are not showing any signs of deficiency and are setting fruit to your satisfaction, don't worry or fertilize. As for the plum suckers, cut them back and then spray with Sucker Stopper RTU. This will stop the suckering. I took my plum trees down years ago because of the continual suckering problem. Thanks for the nice comments about the column!

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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