 |
|
|
|||||
|
|
September 28, 2006 Hortiscope
Q: Two weeks ago, a very large tree came down and landed on a row of mature lilac bushes. Will the lilac bushes survive? When removing the fallen tree, what care should be given to the lilac bushes? If they survive, I would like to transplant them about 20 miles from where they are now. The new area has more sandy soil. What care should I take to transplant the bushes? What is the best time of year to transplant? (e-mail reference)
Q: Can you tell me why the echinacea plants I have in my garden bloom with pale-colored flowers? They appear almost whitish-pink instead of the normal purple. I believe I bought them as purple coneflowers. My garden gets moderate sun and average rain. Do I need to add something to the soil? (e-mail reference)
Q: Do you recommend Wilt-Pruf for arborvitaes? Last year, they died after winter. They are not very protected from the wind and snow. Would burlap work better? (Sioux Falls, S.D.)
Q: We live in Pembina County. Five years ago, we planted 25 bur oak trees that are growing well. However, there is one tree that leafs out with a burgundy-red color. I have not been able to find out why or what species of oak tree it is. Can you tell me what this is? (e-mail reference)
Q: I was hoping you could advise me about transplanting cottonwoods. We're located on a ranch in the sand hills along the Nebraska/South Dakota border. We'd like to plant cottonwoods for shade and windbreaks in our pastures. There are hundreds of little cottonwoods by our house that we could transplant. When would be the best time of year to dig up the trees? When would be the best time to plant? Can they be stored for some stretch of time while they are dormant? (e-mail reference)
Q: We bought a red maple tree last fall. It was staked, but with new growth it could hold its own. The last couple of months we have been fighting bees, flies and tiny ants that love the leaves. At this point, the leaves are green, but the tips are brown and dry. We see no other visible sign of stress, but some of the leaves have tiny spots on them. We apply Sevin, Daconil, fertilizer and water, but not daily. (e-mail reference)
Q: I have a lilac bush that has leaf rollers on the leaves. How do I get rid of them without hurting the lilac bush and the environment? When is the best time to do it? (e-mail reference)
Q: I have several volunteer trees on my land (cottonwood, ash, elm and hackberry). I would like to transplant them to another area and keep them growing. Can you tell me how and when to do this? (e-mail reference)
Q: I just bought a home in West Fargo. The previous owner neglected the front lawn and two large evergreen trees. We have tried vigorously raking the grass numerous times and planting grass, but nothing grows. I am removing one of the trees next spring. What steps should I take to get the grass to grow? (e-mail reference)
Q: My mom was telling me that when grandma was gardening with her, they used to soak gladiola bulbs in Lysol and water before they planted them. She has no idea why. What would be the reason? Does the Lysol act as an insecticide? (e-mail reference)
Q: I just planted a new fern leaf peony in a fairly sunny place. I made sure it had plenty of water to establish itself. Was I wrong to do that? It is turning yellow. It's even crisping off near the bottom of the plant. Did all the water take something out of the soil or drown the poor thing? I've doused it with Miracle-Gro a few times. Oh dear. Now what? (Fargo, N.D.)
Q: A homeowner in Harvey has an unwanted vine. She is concerned it may be poisonous. It is nonwoody, with new or young leaves that are a buckwheat type and close to the same size. The mature leaves are about 3 inches wide and 4 inches long with a small subleaf at the bottom on each side of the stem. The petals are purple to lavender, with a yellow center. The berries are reddish/orange in a teardrop shape. The berries have several small, soft seeds. (e-mail reference)
Q: We enjoy your Hortiscope column. What is the best time to overseed my lawn? We have several thin spots, so I planned to thatch it first, then seed the spots and toss in some lawn food (10-10-10). I'm worried that in the spring, the old grass will shade the seed from germinating. Should I do it now and let the new seeds germinate before winter? I plan on using Kentucky Bluegrass. Thanks again for all your wonderful information in your Hortiscope column. Go Bison! (e-mail reference)
Q: We have a green ash tree with a crack in the fork. The crack extends about halfway down the trunk. It appears that the wood on both sides of the inside of the crack is rotted, but otherwise the tree appears healthy. I checked your archives and found that you told someone with a similar problem to drill and bolt the tree together in March or April. Can we do this now or is it too late in the season? Also, we've been told that our spruce trees have needlecast. The remedy we were given is to spray the entire tree with Dacinin in the spring for the next two to three years. In your archives, I see that you recommend spraying with Bravo (chlorothalonil) or a bordeau mixture for two years in early June and early July. Which is the best solution to this problem? We would hate to lose these beautiful trees. (Jamestown, N.D.)
### Source: Ron
Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu |
Market Advisor: |
|
North Dakota State University |
