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October 5, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: Is there any way to keep a flowering crab from producing apples? It's a good looking yard tree, but I absolutely despise all those useless, little, messy apples in my yard. (Rothsay, Minn.)

A: There are several products on the market that you spray in the early spring as the tree is in flower. None are 100 percent effective and it depends on the cultivar as well. Most sprays are hormonal in action, resulting in an abortion of the fruit. I've heard some people swear by the products and others swear at them! I gave up and took my crab apple down because I couldn't find anything that would control the fruit set, so good luck! Florel is the most known product available on the market and just may do the trick for you. Be sure to follow label directions.

 

Q: I was curious to know if mowing in different directions each time is necessary. (e-mail reference)

A: Not necessary, but desirable from the plant's point of view. Mowing in different directions spreads out compaction and helps keep the grass growing in a more upright manner.

 

Q: We have a massive infestation of crab grass in our lawn. We had someone come to look at it and were advised to treat it with a pre-emergence in the spring. However, we are wondering if there is something we could do now to prevent it from spreading further or to at least prevent it from transferring nutrients to the roots. Thanks for any help you can give us. (Jamestown, N.D.)

A: Don't waste your money doing it now because the frost will kill it. A pre-emergent is the best treatment for control. If you are planning to reseed at the same time, by sure to use Siduron (Tupersan) as the material so the desirable grass seed will not be inhibited from germinating.

 

Q: I planted cannas in large containers in front of my house. They gave me a very nice show of foliage and flowers this summer. I would like to replant them next year under the same conditions. When should I cut off the foliage and how should I try to preserve the rhizomes for use next year? Do I wait for a hard frost and then cut the plants down or stop watering and wait for them to dry off? Thank you. (Bismarck, N.D.)

A: Allow the cannas to dry down a little and then let a frost blacken the foliage. Dig up the plants and bring them indoors. Shake off the soil, but don't wash it off. Place them in a basket or netted bag with dusting sulfur and store them in a cool location for the winter.

 

Q: We have cleared some chokecherry trees from a lakeside steep and rocky hill. We would like some recommendations on what low-growing ground cover we could plant now or in the spring. It is a south-facing hillside at Spiritwood Lake, which is near Jamestown. I called the Extension office here and he suggested creeping junipers, but also said I should contact you because you have more ideas about ground cover. It is a large, rocky area. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thank you. (e-mail reference)

A: Creeping junipers are a good start. Thrift or several phlox ground covers, such as moss pink and blue phlox, also are possibilities. Some other ideas are lily of the valley, daylilies (the common ones) and crested iris.

 

Q: After reading your column on the subject, I noticed what looks like cottony maple scale on our linden trees. This is the first time I've noticed it. The trees were planted on our boulevard more than 10 years ago, so the trees are large. Would the same form of treatment be recommended? Where do I find Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control? Does the cottony scale kill the tree if left untreated? We have one in the row that looks yellowish and is not as full of leaves as the others, but I could not find evidence of the scale on it. (Milnor, N.D.)

A: You are better off taking care of this pest next spring as the trees begin to leaf out. The product is available at most private garden centers in our area. Something else is affecting the tree with yellow foliage because there is no evidence of the scale infestation.

 

Q: What can a homeowner use to prevent white grubs in their garden? The homeowner’s potatoes have been chomped on by grubs. I also found the little buggers when I dug some of my potatoes. (Forman, N.D.)

A: Granular Sevin will do the trick. Use it next year at planting time.

 

Q: I would like some advice about what kind of trees we should plant on our property. We have had to take out many old elm and ash trees. We have come to appreciate the box elders. Does anyone plant them anymore? Last fall we planted two oak trees. They are doing well, but it seems wise to plant another variety. Native trees make sense, but we'd be open to other varieties that would do well. Thanks. I always read your columns and appreciate your advice. (e-mail reference)

A: You can go to an excellent site posted by Todd Weinmann, Cass County horticulturist, at www.ext.nodak.edu/county/cass/horticulture/treeshrub/decidtrees.htm for a snapshot of many trees, along with basic information about each species. You also can go to the Tree Information Handbook at www.ag.ndsu.edu/trees/ to check out the comments made by the authors on even more trees. This manual was edited by some of the state's top horticulturists who have an interest in trees. Enjoy and thanks for making contact!

 

Q: I put in a row of simplicity roses last year. I covered the root area with flax straw just before freeze-up and uncovered the plants in the spring. I mulched with bark. Do I need to use the flax straw again or would they be fine just using mulch? This fall I've noticed black spots on the leaves and some light gray to white discoloration. I thought the problem might be black spot and mildew, so I cut away the affected leaves and stems and burned it. Then I sprayed with Daconil. I see by your column that I should not have sprinkled it right on the plants. Someone told me that roses need lots of water and it's good to keep the plants and soil damp, but water early in the day. (Munich, N.D.)

A: If you want to practice "safe gardening," I would suggest mulching with straw every year. Why take chances? Keep the roots moist, but not the foliage. There are systemic fungicides out there that will keep the plant protected through the growing season.

 

Q: I was reading your page on chokecherry trees, but still have a question. I need to clear some of the trees. Is chokecherry wood good for anything, such as furniture or tables, or is firewood the best option? From what I have been able to gather, it seems to be a very hard wood.
(Alexandria, Minn.)

A: I'm not an expert on the use of wood for furniture purposes, but I have been told by those who know more than I do that cherry wood makes very good, durable furniture.

 

Q: I bought a fern-looking plant called multi majesty. Now it has a strong, thin veil of web spread across the majority of leaves. The plant also has a large amount of tiny orange bugs. I think the bugs are spider mites. Is there a way to kill the bugs without killing the plant? So far the only suggestions have been to use very rare and pricey miticides or high water pressure. Do you have any suggestions? (e-mail reference)

A: Place the entire plant in the shower and run cold water over the foliage. If water from a shower head ruins the plant, then it is too wimpy to survive even in a household environment. If you can do this at least once a week until you see no bug activity, you will have won the battle. Schultz and other companies make earth-friendly miticides, insecticides and fungicides that can be used on houseplants. They also are not that expensive. I would suggest getting one of those at a local retail outlet to use after washing the plant in the shower has brought the mite population down to tolerable numbers.

 

Q: What is the best way to prep for sod? When is the best time to put it down? We also have a lot of monster squirrels that have been digging in the yard. Any suggestions on how to stop them from digging up the new sod? (Minneapolis, Minn.)

A: Prep for sodding exactly the same way you would for seeding, except that you use sod instead of seed. Now is the perfect time to get it installed. As for the squirrels, good luck. I would try live trapping them and moving them somewhere else, such as miles away in a natural, but not landscaped environment. They won't like being trapped, but don't allow their anger to intimidate you. Be sure to wear thick gloves when handling the cages.

 

Q: My wife has been picking nightshade berries from a plant that grew in our flower bed. I have no idea where it came from. Are the berries edible? I have heard many stories that they are poisonous. My wife claims her mother made jelly from the berries. I read your column every week, so I trust your answer. Keep up the good work. (Rothsay, Minn.)

A: If the fruit is completely ripe, it is not poisonous. Only the ripe fruits should be used because the unripe fruits contain a toxin called solanine. If your wife is absolutely certain of the fruit, then it should be OK. A fellow professor (not a plant person) caught up with me the other day to ask me if what he was eating was a chokecherry fruit. I took one look and told him it was buckthorn fruit - Rhamnus cathartica. One doesn't need to be competent in Latin to understand what the species name implies. When I told him of the functional effect continued consumption of this fruit would lead to, he quickly lost interest in eating any more! Thank you for your loyal readership. It is appreciated!

 

Q: Last summer I received a fall fiesta maple tree as a gift. I planted it about 5 feet from the lake shore as a replacement to a large, diseased elm tree that had to be cut down. When I planted it, I used tree fertilizer and fertilized again early this summer. This year, some of the branches never leafed out. Most of the leaves it does have are irregular-shaped and have rust-colored spots. What is the problem and what can I do to solve it? (Pelican Rapids, Minn.)

A: First thing you should do is stop fertilizing. Prune out the dead branches and then send a sample to our plant diagnostic lab here on the NDSU campus because I cannot make a diagnosis based on what you have told me. Send the sample to the NDSU Plant Diagnostic Lab, 206 Waldron Hall, Fargo, ND 58105. There is a nominal charge for examining the culture and making a determination.

 

Q: I am a 1997 alumni of NDSU. I now live in the Black Hills about five miles from Sturgis, S.D. It is a mountain area with big pine trees and soil that has lots of sandstone rocks. I have a retaining wall that is made out of railroad ties. I want to cover up the ties with some sort of ivy or vine. I was thinking I could attach lattice or chicken wire to the wall and then plant some ivy and vines at the base. Some parts of the wall get lots of sun and other parts get light at certain parts of the day. Can you help me out with a vine that will grow fast, has a long yearly life and spreads out a lot? (e-mail reference)

A: Some possibilities are Virginia creeper, Hall's honeysuckle, hops, clematis, trumpet vine and possibly wisteria. All require slightly differing environments to thrive and all have good points to consider.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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