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October 26, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: A client has ant problems in his carrots. The ants ate his red and orange carrots, but left the yellow carrots alone. One could say just plant yellow carrots, but I don't think that's the answer he wants. What can be done to prevent this from happening again? (e-mail reference)

A: In my dealings with ants, it is effective to tempt them with another source of food that has a poison in it. Being foragers, they will take the bait back to their nests for use as food, which kills them. The client needs to find bait that can be used in vegetable gardens. Whether this will stop them completely this fall remains to be seen, but I would sure use it next spring when planting carrots.

 

Q: As a Hortiscope fan, I thought I might ask you what I can do with a date palm. I love the dried fruit during the winter. I never thought that the handful of pits I tossed into a planter would sprout, but they did! There are four spears standing anywhere from 4 inches to 16 inches tall. Who knows, maybe more will sprout! I tossed the pits into the planter thinking they might compost and help the rather poor soil. The spears appear healthy and vigorous. I hate the thought of destroying anything tough enough to sprout like this. I'd appreciate any advice you can provide. (Ashton, S.D.)

A: Having spent almost three years in Saudi Arabia, I am well aware of the toughness of the date palm! Move the plants to a sunny location and augment the weakening sunlight with a strong plant light. If you can, keep the temperature to at least 72 degrees in that area. Date palms like and thrive in heat and desertlike conditions. They are oasis trees, so don't be too short on the water.

 

Q: My geraniums bloom, but the flowers dry out in the center. Is there something I am doing wrong? (e-mail reference)

A: It sounds like it could be botrytis fungus. The fungus usually is caused overwatering and/or poor air circulation. If you are watering using an overhead method, change the technique and keep the water off the blossoms.

 

Q: Even though I'm not from North Dakota, your Web site came up when I searched for answers on fertilizing strawberries. I read through the page and appreciate the information. One of the questions I often saw dealt with squirrels, deer and other furry invaders. I offer this solution, which seems to work well for me. I purchased a couple of pounds of ground cayenne peppers. I took an empty jar, put the cayenne in and then drilled 1/8-inch holes in the lid. I then sprinkled this liberally around the perimeter of my strawberry beds, fruit trees and sunflower plantings. This ended the furry pilfering. I reapply after a heavy rain. I also mixed 1/2 cup of cayenne powder and an equal amount of Vaseline. I spread a thin layer of the mixture on the top rail of my chain link fence. It works like a charm. The squirrels are still around, but leave my garden alone.
Hope this helps some of your readers. (Vancouver, Wash.)

A: Thanks for the tip! We have plenty of furry friends who think they should help themselves to whatever we grow in our gardens.

 

Q: I have a few American elm that have leaves coated with sap and tiny aphids under the leaves. I don't know what Dutch elm disease looks like and there is no forester around to help. The sap coated the leaves of my flowers under the canopy of the tree. (Benedict, N.D.)

A: Leaf-feeding insects, such as you describe, can cause a mess under the canopy of the tree. The insects also are not doing the tree any good. I suggest you try to locate a relatively new product on the market known as Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control. It is applied around the base of the tree and absorbed systemically to kill the insects as they feed. It has a reported effectiveness of 12 months. Be sure to follow label directions or the results will not be satisfactory.

 

Q: I will be moving out of my home this fall. I have many bulbs that I want to dig up while I still can find them. Can you tell me a safe way to dig them up? I’m sure that some of them will be too small to bloom, but they could be planted and cared for at the edge of a garden so they bloom in a year or two. Many of the larger bulbs should bloom next year, if they receive the proper care. What are the optimum conditions for storing bulbs until planting time? When is the best planting time? (Minot, N.D.)

A: Carefully dig them up and store them in the crisper of your refrigerator or in the coolest location in your basement. Discard any that are injured during digging or that appear diseased. Separate any bulblets from the parent bulb to allow it to develop into a future plant. Plant them this fall after a couple of good frosts have slowed things down and water in.

 

Q: I have planted impatiens in the same flowerbed for a number of years. The last couple of years, I have had problems with parts of some plants suddenly wilting and dying. They appear to have been cut at the stem. Sometimes the whole plant dies. Is this a fungus or insect problem? I have some planted in a window box that never has had this problem. (e-mail reference)

A: This sounds like cutworm activity. By now, the larvae probably have morphed into the adult moth and laid eggs for next year's feeding. You can place a granular insecticide, such as Sevin, into the soil at planting time to take care of this pest. It is a good idea to alternate your plant species each year to prevent insect and disease problems from developing. Window box plantings almost always use pasteurized, fresh soil each year, which eliminates this problem.

 

Q: I found your Web site and I've done some other research on the Internet, but I'm still having trouble figuring out what exactly is on my ash tree. I noticed some dried, curled leaves a couple of days ago. Upon close examination, it looked like tiny, white larvae or secretions were on the underside of the leaf. Do you know what this could be? I'm wondering if I need to be concerned and take some action. (West Fargo, N.D.)

A: This looks like mealybug activity, which is a type of scale insect. I would suggest using Bayers Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control. It is applied around the base of the tree and is absorbed systemically through the tree's vascular system and then kills the feeding insects. It has a reported effectiveness of 12 months. For it to be effective, be sure to follow label directions

 

Q: Can peony bulbs be stored? If so, what is the proper method? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes they can, but only temporarily. Wait until they go dormant after several good frosts, then dig them out and shake as much of the soil off the roots as possible. Do not wash the bulbs. Store them in a dark, cool and dry location. Frequently check the bulbs for root-rot development. If you live in a climate with mild winters, you can pot them and store them outdoors on the north side of the house. If the buds or eyes appear to begin elongating, then get them planted as soon as possible.

 

Q: I have some scotch pine trees planted in sandy soil. I noticed the interior needles are browning and falling off. During the summer, the edges of the leaves on my quacking aspens turned brown and developed a slight curl. Also, I had a large portion of my yard turn brown and die. Are these symptoms the result of disease or the dry conditions? (Carrington, N.D.)

A: These are the result of the heat and drought the region went through this past summer. This will not be lethal to the trees, unless drought conditions are repeated several more times.

 

Q: I have two bushes that bloomed, but had dark spots all over the leaves, branches and blooms. Any insight as to what this might be? I trimmed both bushes all the way down. Should I treat the plants with something so that this does not happen again? (e-mail reference)

A: Yes, but not now. Wait until next spring when the new growth begins emerging. Spray with Funginex or a Bordeaux mixture. Three treatments like this through the growing season, about a month apart, should keep whatever the disease is in check. You did the right thing in cutting everything back at this time. Good sanitation pays dividends.

 

Q: My mother, who lives in south-central North Dakota, has a pear tree. It is very old and is probably 40 feet tall. It produces delicious, abundant pears each year. I also would like to start a pear tree. Can I take a cutting/branch from this tree and start a new one or do you know of a hardy pear tree that will grow here in North Dakota? (Jamestown, N.D.)

A: You can collect the seeds from your mom's tree and plant them in a bed enriched with sphagnum peat moss. They need to go through a cold period to germinate. Planting them this fall in Jamestown will do that! You also can take terminal cuttings about 6 to 9 inches long. Dip the ends in a rooting hormone to see if that will give you some rooted cuttings. Generally, a 50/50 combo of sphagnum peat and sand will do the trick. For details, go to my site on Home Propagation Techniques at www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257.pdf.

 

Q: Should I cut down my hydrangeas? They did not do well this year for some reason, so I am not sure what to do with them. Also, is now the time to cut my mock orange? If so, how far from the ground should they be cut? There have been a couple of light frosts, but they still have a lot of green leaves. My husband says I should wait until the leaves fall off, but then we never will get it done. Will it hurt to trim my evergreens a little now? I have one more question. In your column, you listed something that could be used to kill grass in a flower bed, but won't kill the flowers. I could not find it around here and now I lost the name of the product. (e-mail reference)

A: Your husband is right. If you forget again this fall, then do it early next spring. It would be better for the plants anyway. Leave your evergreens alone for now and save the pruning energy for next spring. The material that is the active ingredient is sethoxydim, which is found in a number of grass control products, such as Hi-Yield grass killer.

 

Q: I have four, small arborvitae. I assume it is too late to plant them this fall. Would I be better off to try to keep them in the garage and water them through the winter? (e-mail reference)

A: Plant them as soon as possible because the soil is still warm. As long as it remains above 40 degrees in the roots, they will function in getting the trees established by picking up some water and nutrients and growing somewhat. Protect them from exposure with coarse burlap before freeze-up takes place.

 

Q: I bought a beautiful hybrid cyclamen at a horticultural show last fall. It flowered until the spring. At that time, the leaf stalks became limp and I thought it was heading for a rest. However, before the old growth died down, a new crop of dark green leaves emerged. Soon after that came masses of flower buds. The plant now has 30 distinctive red and white flowers, but the leaves are pale. Is this chlororis and would it benefit from a shot of chelated iron? (e-mail reference)

A: It would be better to use a complete houseplant fertilizer with iron. The crown of this plant had a storehouse of energy. It will need a rest after this blast, so back off on the watering and fertilization when it starts to show those symptoms.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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