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November 16, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I received a call from a homeowner asking if shrubs and trees planted during this time of the year should be watered in. The trees have dropped their leaves. I thought it would be a good question for your column because I’m sure other people are wondering the same thing. (e-mail reference)

A: If there is no rain in the forecast before winter temperatures close in, it is important that there be some moisture in the soil surrounding the root mass. Lethal temperatures can be reached in the root zone if the soil is too dry. This would be especially true of recently planted trees and shrubs. Thanks for the good question.

 

Q: I have a healthy marigold in my front yard. However, the frost soon will kill the plant. I was thinking about getting seeds from this plant for next year, but I'm not sure how to go about doing this. My dad says the seeds are in the flowers. If that's true, do I have to wait until a certain time to gather the seeds? Do I have to dry the seeds? I'm a little confused as to what I need to do, so your help would be appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: Tie a paper bag over the flower heads and cut them off. As the heads dry, the seeds will fall into the bag (hang the cut-off heads upside down). Next spring, plant the seeds in the soil or in a well-lit room. Hybrids will not reproduce the same type of flower, so don't expect the resulting plants to be like the one you harvested.

 

Q: A friend gave me some seedpods from what I believe is a datura she had growing in her yard. Do the seeds need to be frozen or chilled before they will germinate? Also, my son grew a Texas bluebonnet for me. It grew well and bloomed profusely through the summer. I have it in a pot now that Bismarck is headed into the deep freeze. How do I care for it? The plant is losing color and looks like it would benefit from a trim. I also would like to germinate this plant as well. Any suggestions? (Bismarck, N.D.)

A: Datura is an annual. If the seed is viable, it will germinate under the right heat, moisture and light conditions. As for the Texas bluebonnet, it is a wildflower and hardy to zone 7, which is three or four zones south of North Dakota. The seeds need to be scarified and planted somewhere where they can get chilled. An option is to store the seeds in the crisper of your refrigerator.

 

Q: My neighbor and I planted 13 hybrid poplar trees in our backyards in 1997. They have grown to about 35 feet and were healthy until last spring. All of the trees bloomed in early spring and had leaves. In May, one of the trees started to drop its leaves. A month later it started to grow new branches with some leaves, but as soon as the drought started, the leaves and branches died. The tree was dead by August. A few weeks ago, I cut down the tree. All the branches shattered when it hit the ground. The remaining 12 trees look good. What happened to the tree? Was it bugs, disease or physical damage from an ice storm last November? (Wahpeton, N.D.)

A: Generally, a broad environmental disaster, such as an ice storm, would have impacted more than one tree. From your description, it sounds like a vascular wilt fungus that killed the tree. If you haven't done so, take the stump and roots out or at least cut a trench between the roots of the dead tree and any adjacent poplars.

 

Q: What will happen if tulip bulbs are not planted 6 inches deep? I just planted a large bed of bulbs, but don't think I got the bulbs deep enough. I would rather
not have to dig them up. What do you think? (e-mail reference)

A: They will pop up and grow next spring anyway and should produce nice flowers. However, the tulips might grow earlier in the season than if they were planted at the proper depth. It depends on where they are located in the landscape. You always can reset them next fall.

 

Q: My husband has owned a beautiful jade plant for 12 years. It gets lots of natural light, but little direct sunlight. It sits on the north side of the house with a Christmas cactus. The plant was dusty and dirty, so a few weeks ago I took it outside and washed it with a hose. I had the water running very lightly. I then sprayed leaf shine on it. My husband also put more soil in the pot (on top of what was there). The soil was Scotts Potting Soil for Cactus and Succulents with bone meal added. Now a lot of leaves are turning yellow (most of them) and falling off. I was going to take the plant outside today and wash it as best I could. I don’t know what else to do. Should I not use the leaf shine on a jade? (e-mail reference)

A: Oh boy. I thought that leaf shine had been taken off the market. Leaf shine and jade plants don't get along well. A simple wipe with a damp cloth is sufficient enough to cause damage.

The best thing you can do is move the plant back to where it was and treat it as you had before the leaf shine event. All of the leaves probably will fall off, but with a little luck, new ones will regrow in six to eight weeks. It sounds like the plant was vigorous before this event, so there is a good chance it will recover.

 

Q: I hope you can help me with my once healthy schefflera plant that I’ve had for several years. It seemed to need increasing amounts of water, so I repotted it to a larger pot. As I was repotting, I noticed there was no crowding of the roots along the sides, but there was one extremely long root wrapping around the bottom. I thought that confirmed that the plant needed repotting. A few days after I repotted, one branch began to turn yellow and then fell off. I thought I bumped the branch. Then another branch turned yellow and fell off. It has been more than a month, and each week another branch turns yellow and falls off. The yellowing starts in the main vein of the leaf. A few of the leaves have brown spots. I don't see any bugs or mite webs. The leaves look healthy until the yellowing starts. I have taken the yellow leaves to two local plant stores. They said it could be over or underwatering. I don't think it is a watering problem. I did decrease the watering, but it didn’t make a difference. Your help is much appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: Yellowing and dropping of foliage also is an indication of too little light. Did you replace it in the same location? Did you cut off some of the root? There is a chance the plant will recover or at least quit dropping leaves. Try directing a grow light or two on the plant to see if that helps.

 

Q: Our family is yakking about some black spots on maple leaves. Some are saying the trees have cancer and are trying to breath in air just like a smoker. Others are saying there was too much rain in our area this year and the soil is too alkaline. What’s up, Ron? (e-mail reference)

A: Gossip or rumors are always more interesting than reality. This is actually one of the showiest fungi that maples get. Your tree has a fungus called tar spot (Rhytisma acerinum). Other than cosmetic degrading, it is usually harmless to most healthy trees. This is a fungus that is sensitive to air pollution, so the air must be clean in your area! The fungus is caused by extended wet periods. If the old leaves are not cleaned up in the fall, re-infection could occur the following year. Fungicide sprays are not recommended unless it comes back every year. If that happens, spray applications should be pre-emptive and done by a professional arborist.

 

Q: My anthurium has not bloomed since I brought it home from the store a year ago. Every leaf has brown edges, which I trim often. It is not in direct sunlight, so I do not believe it is getting too much sun. (e-mail reference)

A: Anthuriums are plants from the heart of the tropics, so they require about 80 percent humidity and 80-degree temperatures or better to thrive and bloom. Light sun is OK, but not direct, hot sunlight. Filter the sunlight through a sheer curtain if possible. In their native habitat, these are plants that thrive under the canopy of a tree. Typical home environments usually are too dry and cool to encourage much blooming of these beautiful plants. I have some suggestions if you want to try to mimic tropical conditions around the plant. Place a humidifier and space heater near the plant. Place the plant on top of a large tray of pebbles covered with water. Try fertilizing. You didn't mention if you did or not. Look for a blooming type of fertilizer that is high in phosphorus. The middle number should read something such as 15-30-15. Use it about once a month. This, along with some environmental manipulation and patience, should produce some blooms.

 

Q: I read with interest your reply to the wodarz apple question. I would like to get some trees, so I would appreciate the name of a good nursery. I live in Scranton, which is 50 miles south of Dickinson. Russell Wodarz was a relative of mine. My grandmother and Russell were cousins and were both into apples. Grandma grafted a lot and had one tree with 33 varieties on it. I now live on the same place. Unfortunately, during the last 32 years since she passed away, the trees are all gone. I can remember Russell coming out to the farm when I was young. Grandma talked about him a lot. We had a family reunion years ago on his farm near Wyndmere and had a chance to see all of his trees. Adelide, Patricia and Jerard Wodarz were living there at the time. Adelide mentioned the wodarz apple, but I never followed up on getting any. Thank you very much for your help. Your column is much appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: I did a quick Google search and came up with a source. The Urban Farmer has it listed on its Web site at www.theurbanfarmer.ca/products_services.html#plants. Apparently the company grows everything organically, so the stock should be stout.

 

Q: We inherited hollyhocks when we purchased our home. We don’t like them! We have tried digging them up and killing them with weed killer. Nothing seems to work. Now there are miniature hollyhocks starting to grow in the grass. What can we do to get rid of them? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! (e-mail reference)

A: This is the first time I have heard of hollyhocks being a problem. A good broadleaf weed killer should take them out of your lawn. Trimec is the most potent you can use on home lawns. Wait until they germinate in the spring and then hit the area. That should take care of the problem.

 

Q: I would like to know if the Saskatoon berry bush is the same as a Juneberry bush. If there is a difference, I would like to know the size of the bush and fruit. Is there more than one type of Juneberry? (Rugby, N.D.)

A: They are the same. There are at least six to eight Juneberry cultivars.

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Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


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