news
North Dakota State UniversitySearch
NDSU Extension Service
ND Agricultural Experiment Station
NDSU Agriculture CommunicationArchive

November 30, 2006

Hortiscope

Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist
NDSU Extension Service

Q: I have a Christmas cactus that is full of buds, but the soil is very dry. I am afraid to water it because last year I gave it a nice drink and the buds started to fall off. Should I give it a drink? (e-mail reference)

A: You need to maintain a fairly constant watering schedule with any flowering plant. Reduce the watering a little at this time, but do not eliminate it. I would suggest watering enough to moisten the top few inches of soil, not a good soaking after a dry period. Flowers (leaves too) often will abscise if an extended period of dryness is followed by an irrigation event that completely saturates the roots.

 

Q: We planted a honey crisp apple tree about six years ago. We had a few apples last year and a ton this year. However, many of the apples have what appears to be bug or worm damage. What a disappointment after waiting all these years for the tree to bear fruit. I overheard someone in a grocery store say that honey crisp apples cost more because they are hard to grow. I would be interested in hearing your views and whether others have had the same problems with their apples. Honey crisp apples are the best tasting apples we have raised. Do we need to spray next spring to avoid the problem? Also, we have two Hazen trees that we are thinking of taking out. They are heavy bearing, but the apples don't keep and actually get soft while on the tree. What would be a good replacement? Thanks. (Fessenden, N.D.)

A: Honey crisp apples are popular with the apple-consuming public, so demand is challenging supply, which is good old-fashioned American business. Good sanitation, trapping devices using pheromones and sticky traps will keep the apple maggots at bay. As a last resort, use sprays, but try the other nontoxic methods first. Hazen apples taste good, but do not keep well. I would suggest that you select another cultivar, such as Haralson, haralred, fireside, honeygold or Lodi.

 

Q: I bought a jade plant while I was visiting my mother-in-law two years ago. Sadly, she claimed the plant when she spotted it in the back of our truck. I went to visit her today and found the poor plant in a horrible state. I was so angry I took the plant home with me. She has not watered it for at least seven months. Most of the leaves have fallen off, the stalks are beginning to shrivel and the dirt has turned to dust. Surprisingly, there are a few green leaves, although they are paper thin. Is there anything I can do to save this poor plant? (e-mail reference)

A: If you haven't done so, give it a good watering to see what happens. If there is no response or improvement in two weeks, I would say it is ready for the compost pile. Give your mother-in-law a book on houseplant care this Christmas.

 

Q: Is it OK to use cedar mulch with crabapple trees? I heard there is a possibility of cedar apple rust infection. If so, what would you recommend? (e-mail reference)

A: This shouldn't be a problem because the mulch goes into a composting or weathering process before being used. Also, the pathogen needs living tissue, which mulch is not.

 

Q: I have several Gerber daisy plants. The blossoms have been great, but suddenly four of my plants have turned a grayish color and the blooms are not doing well. Is there something that I can do or should I cut them back? Any information would be greatly appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: While I cannot make an accurate diagnosis based on what you have told me, it sounds like this could be gray mold, so that is what my advice is going to be based upon. However, I could be wrong with this guess! Cool, damp weather favors the development and spread of gray mold, but it is not difficult to control. Following good sanitation practices is one of the best ways to reduce this disease. Faded flower blossoms and fallen petals should be collected and discarded. Plant tissue that is stressed, aging or inactive is a great host for gray mold. Keep the leaves dry and avoid overhead watering. If possible, increase the air circulation. Don't overwater or over-fertilize. Neem oil or Schultz's Fungicide 3 is all that I will recommend at this point.

 

Q: I love your column and read it weekly. What should I do with my hibiscus plant during the winter months? Should I keep it in a south window and continue to water or should it go to a cool room so it can rest? (Valley City, N.D.)

A: Thank you for the kind comment and for being a faithful reader! If the plant is vigorous and growing well, keep it going. If it starts to develop lethargy as far as growth, then let it dry down and place it in a cool room. Next spring, as the days begin to become noticeably longer, bring it back to the south window, cut it back and begin watering.

 

Q: Can you advise me on how often to water a China doll plant I just purchased? My plant has been dropping leaves at night. My daughter thinks I’m not watering the plant enough. I have the plant sitting where it receives afternoon sun for a couple of hours a day. I only use heat to warm up the house in the morning (propane).We have spider mites in our house, so I put granules on the plant. Was that the wrong thing to do? (e-mail reference)

A: China doll is a fussy plant. It didn't like being taken from the florist shop. It absolutely doesn't tolerate cigarette smoke or inconsistent watering. Allow the soil to dry between watering. Overwatering will result in the leaves turning black and dropping off. Underwatering will cause the leaves to turn crisp and eventually drop off. This plant also is susceptible to mealy bugs and spider mites. The best way to control these pests is to mist the plant regularly with tepid water. Make sure the plant gets as much winter sunshine as possible.

 

Q: I have a Colorado blue spruce that was planted this spring. The bottom branches turned brown, so I had it replaced, but the same thing happened. It gets plenty of water. Ever heard of this problem? (e-mail reference)

A: The tree could be overwatered, planted too deeply or both. This is a common problem when either situation exists.

 

Q: We inherited a ficus tree from the previous owners of our house. It was doing well outside. However, after we moved it inside, the leaves fell off and the branches became brittle. The bark is green underneath, so I don't think it is dead. Prior to all the leaves falling off, my friend pointed out that there was a white substance underneath the leaves which indicated overwatering. He told me there is a spray that I could buy to help. Any advice about this spray (my friend didn't know the name of it) or advice on how to save my tree would be appreciated. (e-mail reference)

A: The white that you see probably is a scale infestation, which has nothing to do with watering.

There is a catch-all spray called Schultz's Fungicide 3. The product is a fungicide, miticide and insecticide. Also, the tree could be dropping its leaves because it was moved to a lower light situation. If that is the case, it should releaf in a few weeks after adjusting to an indoor environment.

 

Q: I found your Web site while looking up information on how to salvage my schefflera. My question is similar to those on the site, but I'm confused (I know nothing about plants). What do I do with the long stalks that don't have leaves? Does cutting the thick stalks induce branching and foliage? If I cut them off, will new growth start? (e-mail reference)

A: Your poor schefflera needs two changes. The plant needs a heavy pruning and more light! Cut those old stalks back to 3 or 4 inches. Move the pot to an area where there is more light. If you can't do it with natural sources, get some plant lights. Turn on the lights for at least 12 hours a day.

###

Source: Ron Smith, (701) 231-8161, ronsmith@ndsuext.nodak.edu
Editor:
Rich Mattern, (701) 231-6136, richard.mattern@ndsu.nodak.edu


Columns

BeefTalk

Prairie Fare

Plains Folk

Hortiscope

Market Advisor:

Crop

Livestock

 

North Dakota State University
NDSU Agriculture Communication
NDSU Extension Service
ND Agricultural Experiment Station