Submitted by: agcomm,  Thu Sep 18 11:24:29 1997


Hortiscope
 
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist                 
North Dakota State University
                                                 
Q. Can you tell me if there is something to put on my garden
ground before I plant next year? I have blight in my garden. It
is on my tomato and cucumber plants.                 
 
Enclosed are the leaves. Please let me know what the disease is.
(Pettibone, N.D.)                 
 
A. The disease is known as late blight or Phytophthora. There
isn't much you can do about it now. The best bet next year is to
get into crop rotation and avoid overhead or splashing water when
irrigating. 
                
I have enclosed extension circular PP-469, "Plant Disease
Management in the Home Garden," which will also help you. Others
may obtain a copy of this publication at their local county
extension office or by contacting the NDSU Extension          
Distribution Center, Box 5655, Morrill 10, NDSU, Fargo, ND
58105-5655.                
                
 
Q. These are leaves from our maple tree. Can you tell me what
causes this and what effect it will have on it in future years?
(Kindred, N.D.)                 
 
A. Your maple has bladder gall, caused by a mite back in the
early spring as the leaves were unfolding.
                
This generally is a cosmetic problem and will not affect the
health of the tree. They come and go naturally, so no action is
suggested.                
                
 
Q. Our greenhouse tomatoes, grown hydroponically, are showing
this leaf problem. Could you identify it and how to treat it?
                
Thank you. I always look for your column in the Sun Country
paper. (Carrington, N.D.)
                
A. From the visual symptoms alone, I would say your solution is
likely to be low in potassium. You definitely have some kind of
nutrient salt imbalance. Have your water checked for naturally
occurring salts, and adjust your nutrient input accordingly.
                
The variation in water quality over the period of a year is often
overlooked with hydroponic growing.
               
                
Q. I never miss reading your column in the Sun Country. It is
very helpful. I want to plant old-fashioned lilacs, either a
sugar maple or Norway maple, and an American linden, all
purchased from Gurney's. Can I still plant them this fall, and do
you have any hints that will help them survive our winters? Thank
you. (Sykeston, N.D.)                 
 
A. Gurney's is a regional mail-order supplier, and their stock is
usually quite successful at getting established in our area.
                
First, I suggest you stay away from those two maples and go with
the linden. The biggest mistake people make is planting too
deeply. When the stock comes in, note the soil line on the trunk
and plant to that depth, water in well, but do not fertilize for  
the first year.
                
Healthy stock should take off next year.
               
                
Q. I would like to know what kind of plant or weed I have been
feeding this summer. I potted a geranium from the local floral
shop and this plant sprung up and is now about three feet high.
It has small yellow flowers close to the trunk or stem. The
leaves are large. I will take a picture of this before I pull it
out, but first I am curious as to what this really is. Thanks.
(Lisbon, N.D.)                 
 
A. These start showing up in my office every year at this time.
You have a velvet leaf, an annual that can produce seeds that
will last 50 plus years in the soil.                
                
Q. Could you please tell me if this is a wild flower or a weed?
It is in my flower garden.  To me it looks like a hollyhock.
Thank you.
                
Enjoy your column in Sun Country. (Wimbledon, N.D.)               
 
A. I am sorry, but your sample was too rotted to make any kind of
identification. Please try again and this time ship it dry. Try
wrapping it in a paper towel, then ship in a ziplock bag.
                
 
Q. Please tell me how to get grass out of iris beds--fast. Thank
you. (Rosholt, S.D.)                 
 
A. It all depends on the grass. If it is quack, it may prove too
difficult to remove chemically, but give it a try anyway.
                
Use Poast or a similar product that will selectively remove most
grasses. If it is a heavy infestation of quack, the only way may
be to dig everything out and begin all over.
                                 ###
NDSU Agriculture Communication       
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Naomi Dahlberg (701) 231-6263