Submitted by: agcomm,  Thu Oct 30 10:09:12 1997


Hortiscope
 
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
 
  Q. I am enclosing a limb from an apple tree in our shelter
     belt. There are apples on one side of the tree but the other
     side looks dead. I am assuming it has a fungus and am
     wondering if you can identify it and tell me if there is a
     treatment for it, or if it has to be destroyed. The trees
     around it, including a crab apple tree, seem unaffected.     
     
     I enjoy your column. It has proven to be a source of
     invaluable information for me.  (Tolna, N.D.)
 
  A. The reason this fungus doesn't spread to other trees is
     because it is a saprophyte, not a parasite. Unlike a
     parasite, this organism lives off of decaying organic
     matter, the dead branch in this case, and does not move to
     parasitize the living branches.           
 
     The best treatment for this is to prune on an annual basis.
     This is carried out in the early spring, just prior to
     budbreak.
 
     Thank you for the compliment about the column.
         
 
  Q. Enjoy your column in the Green Sheet of the Aberdeen
     American News.           
 
     Enclosed is a clipping of a gladiolus stem. Nearly all my
     flowers got buds, but then would sort of dry up. If these
     had a disease on them will this hurt the bulb? What can I    
     do? Thank you. (Hosmer, S.D.)
          
  A. Your glads had typical thrip symptom damage. After the
     first fall frost blackens the tops, bring in the corms and
     dust with sulfur during the storage period. Next spring,
     follow a rigorous spray program for their control with
     Orthene, Malathion or Sevin. Their feeding activity causes
     discoloration of flowers, foliage, and in most cases keeps
     the buds from opening.
          
     Try also to plant the glads in another location next year.
     Crop rotation helps keep insect and disease problems to a
     tolerable level.
          
          
  Q. Could you please identify the enclosed leaf specimen? This
     was found in a pasture 1/2 mile from the Sheyenne River. It
     was a shrub-like plant. We are curious as to what it would
     be. Thank you. (Pekin, N.D.)
          
  A. Thank you for sending in such a perfect sample of Sambucus
     canadensis or American elderberry. This is a vigorous,
     spreading shrub that is good more for wildlife habitat than  
     landscaping.
         
     
  Q. This bush is getting browner by the day. I don't know what
     it has or what to do. Should I cut it down or leave it? 
          
     These flowers came up by my mailbox. I would like to know
     what they are and if they will come up next year.
          
     I read your column all the time and really enjoy it. Thanks.
     (Glenfield, N.D.)           
 
  A. Give your potentilla a good, hard cut-back to ground level
     this fall and see what happens next spring. Many times they
     recover nicely. At least you are giving it a chance. It will 
     not flower next year if it survives, but should in
     subsequent years.           
  
     I was unable to identify your sample due to specimen damage.
     Judging from the seed produced, you should see them again
     next year.
         
 
  Q. We are wondering what this grass is that has invaded our
     lawn in a few areas. Also, what can be done to get rid of
     it--besides digging it up by hand. It grows low to the
     ground and spreads out very readily.  We read the articles
     all the time. Thank you. (Litchville, N.D.)           
 
  A. Your lawn is being invaded by an annual grass known as
     crabgrass. The best defense for this is a healthy, dense
     turfgrass.
          
 
 
     I suggest an application of Pre-M (preemergent grassy weed
     control product) about the time the lilacs come into bloom.
     You also need to become aggressive in rejuvenating your      
     lawn: fertilize, mow at three inches and as needed, water to
     keep the grass from going dormant, and reseed the bare
     spots.
         
 
  Q. This hibiscus plant got sprayed, but I didn't see the spray
     name. Will the plant die?  Should I cut it off? Would some
     of the spray damage the soil? Should I throw it out? I      
     would appreciate an answer and thank you very much. What
     spray is it? (Niagara, N.D.)           
 
  A. I have no way of knowing what was sprayed on your hibiscus
     plant. It didn't appear to cause any significant damage,
     whatever was used.
          
     Other than some leaf spot and feeding insect damage, the
     foliage appears normal for this time of year. I suggest
     cutting it back and fertilizing with Miracle-Gro next year
     as the new growth is emerging. Repeat every four to six
     weeks.                                  
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NDSU Agriculture Communication 
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Naomi Dahlberg (701) 231-6263