Submitted by: agcomm,  Thu Nov 20 09:45:32 1997


Hortiscope
 
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist
North Dakota State University
 
Q. Enclosed is another sample of the plant I sent about two
   weeks ago for you to identify. Hope this is in satisfactory
   condition.
        
   I had one plant get real large this spring or early summer
   with lots of white flowers, before I realized it was not a
   flower. It seems to have a sticky residue on the plant.       
      
   How do I get rid of this in my flower beds?
          
   Enjoy your weekly column. Thank you. (Rutland, N.D.)          
   
A. Thank you for the much better sample.
          
   With the help of Duane Berglund, extension agronomist, and
   one of his fine reference texts, we were able to determine
   that what you sent is known as nightflowering catchfly      
   or sticky cockle (Silene noctiflora).
          
   Being an annual, it is easily controlled with pre-emergent
   herbicides. If you can "harvest" as much of the plant as
   possible in fall before the seeds drop, it would make control
   much easier, as each plant can produce up to 1,600 viable
   seeds!           
   
   Thanks for writing.
         
          
Q. I enjoy your column very much. 
          
   Could you please help me with this problem? I have a Superior
   and a Waneta plum tree. This year some of the plums had what
   looked like a brown weevil forming in the pit and      
   working its way to the outside. How do I deal with this so it
   doesn't happen next year?           
 
   Thank you. (Tioga, N.D.)
          
A. The only thing I can think of is the plum curculio. It
   damages the fruit from egg laying punctures, larval feeding
   within the fruits and the fall feeding of adult beetles.      
       
   Controls are directed toward sanitation and mechanical
   measures.           
 
   Clean up all fallen fruit this fall, spray with dormant oil
   early next spring before leaf-out. Then spray the trees with
   Malathion when the leaves are half open. Discourage any weed  
   growth around the tree and prune to open the crown to allow
   predatory birds access to any beetles.
         
          
Q. I'm not very good at writing letters, but will do my best. I
   had a vine growing in a flower bed this summer and can find
   nobody in Williston who can tell me what it is. The vine      
   looks like a cucumber with blossoms. It tastes like a mild
   cucumber also. Will send sample and a leaf from the vine.
   Sure hope you can help me. Many thanks. (Williston, N.D.)
          
A. The plant you sent in is a cucumber, but it doesn't quite
   know how to look like one! The baseball shape is an
   indication of something going haywire with the development of
   the fruit--incomplete pollination, weather extremes, etc. The
   fact that it showed up in your flower bed could be due to
   animal activity--birds or rodents, most likely. You could
   also be seeing a second generation from a hybrid cucumber;
   that would allow for the shape.          
          
Q. I really enjoy your column in the Farm Forum of the Aberdeen
   American News. It is the first thing I look at in there.
          
   Could you please tell me what this is on the apples? I had
   some last year, but much worse this year. I know I have sooty
   blotch, but what is on the flower end? I always rake up      
   leaves in the fall, but since the leaves didn't fall until
   after the snow last fall, it didn't get done. I also keep all
   the windfalls picked up all summer. We juice the apples so
   don't want that in the juice as we use it raw and freeze it.  
           
   Can I spray with lime sulfur this fall even before the leaves
   all fall? Thank you. (Faulkton, S.D.)
          
A. Your fruits have been dimpled from apparent hail damage and
   some apple scab. You have nothing to worry about as far as
   consumption goes. Simply cut out the affected parts      
   around the blossom end and you should be able to use the
   rest.           
 
   Spraying with lime sulfur is more effective in early spring
   when the spores are becoming active.
         
          
Q. I have several questions concerning a patch of red
   raspberries that blossom but don't bear. They are an old
   variety I planted about 15 years ago. I have cut down the
   entire patch and still no raspberries. They are behind a
   building so I know they need to be moved out in the open.
   When should I transplant them, and how far apart should the   
   shoots be? Do I prune every year? Do I cut out the suckers
   and leave only one cane? When do I fertilize and is a bulb
   fertilizer the right kind? How deep do I plant them and      
   any other information you can give me would be appreciated.
   Maybe I should get some new plants.
          
   Also, what should I add to my black dirt?
          
   Thank you. (Alpena, S.D.)
          
A. Raspberries need a full dose of sunshine, something I suspect
   they are not getting, in order to set fruit. They should also
   be located at least 50 feet from shade trees, as the roots
   would compete for nutrients and water, reducing yield. Avoid
   planting where potatoes or tomatoes were previously grown due
   to the possibility of verticillium wilt infection.
          
   Plant in early spring for best results. In your spot on the
   prairie, I would suggest late April. Set them so your
   cultivation equipment can till without damaging the plants.
   Application of 5-10-50 as a side dressing should be carried
   out right after planting. Figure 15 to 20 pounds per 1,000
   square feet.
          
   The best approach for you is to purchase new plants, as the
   present ones could have a virus disease that is affecting
   yield. 
          
   I have enclosed our extension publication H-38, "Refreshing
   Raspberries," to give you further information.
          
   No need to add more soil.
                                 ###
NDSU Agriculture Communication
Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161
Editor: Barry Brissman (701) 231-7866