Submitted by: agcomm, Thu Dec 18 12:35:24 1997 Hortiscope Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist North Dakota State University Q. I am inquiring about the Fern Leaf Memorial Day Peony and what you might know about it. Where does it originate? A friend of ours from North Dakota said they were brought from Norway in the 1800s. We have been raising them for a number of years now. With the cold weather this past spring, they bloomed one to two weeks late. We would appreciate any information you could provide us. Thank you. (McIntosh, Minn.) A. I am afraid you have stumped me on this question and shown me a hole in my reference library. Everything I have is on culture or propagation. My Hortus III only refers to the Paeonia tenuifolia (fern leaf peony) as coming from southeast Europe to Caucasus. Sorry I could not be of more assistance. Q. We really appreciate your Hortiscope in the Country Peddler. You have been a great help to those of us who enjoy plants and trees. We have all learned from the suggestions and advice that you have given to people who write in to you. Please continue your columns. I am enclosing a sample of leaves and berries (picked 10-16-97) from a tree in my yard which was supposed to be a magnolia tree, but at this point I am wondering. It is interesting to think I planted a so-called magnolia tree and find out later that maybe it isn't what I thought. Please let me know what you think. (Sheyenne, N.D.) A. The sample was fairly beat up with the berry juice squashed over everything, but this I know--it isn't a magnolia. The hardiest magnolia is the Star Magnolia, which makes it marginally into zone 4. I have seen the fruit, but if you could please send me some more leaves attached to a branch, I would stand a better chance of identifying the plant. Thank you for the nice card and comments about the column. Q. Thank you for your help before. If I get to Fargo, I hope my son can help me find you and show you a couple of plants. It seems like there are little spiders, but my vision is slipping (at 91 that happens, they say) so I can't quite know. Red spots occur and then the leaf turns yellow and dries up on the calla and several amaryllis plants. I don't water and feed the plants as well as I should. Actually, I should dispose of most of them. The Christmas cactus is 67 years old and a gift from my Mother and most plants are gifts. Have you suggestions for what to do with tuberous begonias? It's too windy here to hang them out. Thank you. We read all your comments and learn from them. (Rolette, N.D.) A. Wow, 91 and still going strong--nice to have you around and asking questions. Calla and amaryllis need an annual rest period. Allow the foliage to dry down and the plants to stay dormant for about six weeks. Then repot, place in a sunny location and water. It appears you are fighting a natural tendency of the plant to shut down. Christmas cactus is a jungle species as well and needs to go through a wet/dry cycle with growth and need for abundant water from spring to fall. When flowering is over, allow the top part of the soil to dry before watering again. During active growth, they need a tomato-type fertilization on a regular basis. Try tuberous begonias as pot or bedding plants. Thanks for writing. Q. We have had rhubarb growing in the same bed for 50 plus years that my husband can remember. Never has been moved or transplanted. Just gets mulched with straw in spring and fall. It is very thick and nice stalks. Enjoy your column. (Winner, S.D.) A. That's outstanding. If that isn't a record, it must be close to being one. Thanks for writing. Q. Awhile ago I read somewhere that you could put something around the base of crabapple trees in the fall and they wouldn't flower or bear fruit the next spring and summer. I have misplaced the article so am wondering if you have any advice for me. I was told to spray the blooms in the spring with Sevin, but I don't care to use that method if there is another that will work. I am afraid of the spray business. (Wishek, N.D.) A. I am afraid that is the only choice, unless someone knows something I don't, which is always possible (and even probable). Properly handled, Sevin or any other pesticide will not create problems. Q. I have a problem with one of our apple trees. I am not sure what kind of apple it is. I am enclosing the leaves from this tree. They get this way every year and don't bear very many, if any. There is another tree which is a Haralson that does not get these kind of leaves on it. Was wondering what is causing the problem. My other sample is from a pine tree or cedar tree whichever it is that gets these little clumps all over. This spring it had these all over about as big as small eggs. We pulled them all off, but this fall they are coming back. Is this normal, or is there something I should be doing to prevent this? The cedar tree and the apple trees are both in the same area. Is there any connection to the two problems, and if so why does it affect the one apple tree and not the others? I have never used any spray on any of the trees. Is there something I should be using? I enjoy your column in the green sheet every week. (Wessington Springs, S.D.) A. Your apple tree has scab, and the juniper has female cones. Apple scab develops on some tree species due to weather conditions and the vulnerability of some trees. Haralson and Red Duchess are good examples that are resistant. The fungus overwinters in infected leaves, so autumn sanitation is the first step in control. Get all fallen leaves removed. Next, spray in the spring before leaf-out with lime sulfur, covering the entire tree, if possible. Then as the leaves unfold spray with Captan. See the enclosed extension publication, PP454, "Diseases of Apples and Other Pome Fruits," for more information. The juniper is simply making normal sexual expression bearing fruits. Thank you for writing. ### NDSU Agriculture Communication Source: Ron Smith (701) 231-8161 Editor: Barry Brissman (701) 231-7866