What impurities will chlorination remove?
Chlorination is a water treatment that destroys disease-causing bacteria, nuisance
bacteria, parasites and other organisms. Chlorination also removes soluble iron, manganese
and hydrogen sulfide from water.
Disease-causing bacteria can infect humans and animals in several ways. Fecal waste
from an infected host frequently carries organisms which cause diseases such as typhoid
fever, paratyphoid fever, bacillary dysentary, infectious hepatitis and others.
Disease-causing organisms are transmitted from host to host in many ways including through
a contaminated water supply. Human and/or livestock populations concentrated together with
improperly located or constructed wells may result in contamination of water supplies by
sewage or fecal wastes.
There is no substitute for a safe and sanitary water supply. If your water supply
becomes contaminated, elimination of the source of contamination is the most permanent
solution. Continuous chlorination to kill disease-causing bacteria in a contaminated water
source should be a temporary measure used only until you can develop a new, sanitary water
supply.
How to test your water
Most water testing for chlorination purposes is done to detect the presence of coliform
bacteria. Coliform bacteria testing is used as an indicator of the possible presence of
disease-causing bacteria. Tests for the presence of coliform bacteria may be made by the
most probable number (MPN) method or the membrane filter (MF) method. If no coliform
bacteria are detected in a test, the MPN will be reported as less than 2.2 and the
MF as zero. If any bacteria are present, the number will be stated.
If bacteria are present, you should thoroughly shock chlorinate the water supply and
system. After chlorinating you should wait 2 to 7 days after all chlorine has been removed
from the system and then collect a sample for retesting. If this retest does not detect
the presence of coliform bacteria it is likely that the bacteria are not entering on a
continuous basis. However, some authorities suggest that at least 3 consecutive tests
spaced 3 to 6 months apart should report no bacteria presence before resuming normal
testing intervals. If repeated tests show the presence of bacteria, you may have a
continuous source of contamination.
Detergents, nitrates and coliform bacteria are all indicators of well con-tamination.
None of these indicators are necessarily harmful but they do suggest that disease may
occur if con-ditions are favorable. If a test indicates that your water is contaminated
you should locate the source of pollution and eliminate it from your water supply.
Shock chlorination procedures
For shock chlorination, an initial chlorine concentration of 50 to 100 parts per
million (ppm) with a contact time of at least 6 hours is recommended. To obtain a
concentration of 100 ppm you need to know (or estimate) the diameter of your well and the
depth of water in the well. Note: Do not use the total depth of the well. The depth of
water is the distance from the water surface to the bottom of the well. Your well driller
may have this information or you can determine it yourself by lowering a weighted string
to the bottom of the well. Table 1 shows the amounts of chlorine bleach to add for an
initial concentration of about 100 ppm.
Table 1. Chlorine Bleach Additive Quantities
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Well Diameter Depth of Water in Well (feet)
(inches) less than 50 100 150 200
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Quarts of Laundry Bleach
2 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4
4 1/4 1/2 3/4 1
6 1/2 1 1.5 2
8 1 2 2 3
10 1.5 3 3 3
12 2 3 4 4
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Any type of laundry bleach containing 5.25% hypochlorite solution will work. Because
bleach is corrosive to metals it should be diluted in the ratio of 12 parts of water to 1
part bleach prior to adding to the well water. These corrosive properties also mean that
care should be taken in handling to avoid contact with skin and especially eyes. Rubber
gloves and goggles are recommended when handling chlorine solutions. If you are exposed,
flush repeatedly with clean water. This should be done immediately after exposure.
Follow the steps below to properly shock chlorinate your well:
Step 1. Determine the amount of bleach and dilution water to use (see Table 1).
For example if you have a 4 inch diameter well with 40 feet of water, Table 1 recommends
using 1/4 quart of bleach. To dilute, use 3 quarts of water (12 times 1/4 quart).
Step 2. Remove the cap from your well. There are many types of well caps. If you
have questions or need instructions to remove the cap, contact your well driller.
Step 3. Pour the mixture of chlorine and water down the well. Try to coat the
casing (sides of the well) as you pour. To get good distribution in the well, attach a
hose to a nearby hydrant or faucet and put the discharge end of the hose in the well. Then
start the pump to recirculate chlorinated water back into the well. The recirculating
water should have a strong odor of chlorine if the chlorine demand has been met.
Step 4. Run water through the service lines in the house until you detect the
odor of chlorine at each tap. Make sure you run the chlorinated water through every line
in the system. You may also want to flush toilets. Note: If you have an activated carbon
filter in the system, temporarily remove the cartridge or bypass the filter completely.
Step 5. Let the chlorinated water stand in the system for at least 6 hours,
preferably 8 to 12 hours.
Step 6. Flush out the system beginning with the well. Use a hose connected to an
outside hydrant and discharge the water to an appropriate waste system. Note: This large
volume of chlorinated water should not be put into a septic system or onto delicate plants
or lawns. After water from the well is free from chlorine odor, flush the rest of the
piping system. Draining this volume of water into your septic system should be acceptable.
Depending on the age and condition of your well, you may want to shock chlorinate the
well up to 10 times before abandoning the well. If you must use the present contaminated
water supply until the new supply can be developed, be sure to follow a process of
continuous chlorination.
Single-pipe Packer Jet Water Systems
If your well has a single-pipe packer jet water system you can disinfect it thoroughly
only by removing the drop pipe from the well. Add the chlorine solution into the jet pump
by disconnecting the tube at the air charging device and placing it in the chlorine
solution (see Figure 1). The solution will be drawn through the pump, the jet fittings,
the upper portion of the well, the drop pipe and the distribution system.
Because there is a foot valve at the bottom of the drop pipe, very little, if any,
chlorine solution can enter the well below the packer leathers (see Figure 2). Therefore
you must pull the drop pipe to disinfect the well thoroughly. With a packer jet water
pump, chlorinate the water system before you remove the jet fitting from the well.

Figure 1. Tube From Air-Charging Device Is
Used to Introduce Chlorine Solution Into Water System. (Note: This process does not
adequately disinfect the well.)

Figure 2. Packer-type Jet Used For Small Wells
(2-4 inch).
Chlorination and Water Heaters
If your hot water smells worse than the cold, you may want to add a small amount of
bleach directly to the water heater or drain the water heater before chlorinating. Turn
off the water heater first. Chlorine is not as effective in hot water. Always turn off the
heater before draining the tank.
Continuous chlorination procedures
Continuous chlorination is a necessity for surface water supplies such as ponds,
springs, lakes or cisterns. You can use chemical feed pumps to inject chlorine into your
system. Wire the feed pump to the water pump pressure switch so that the pumps operate
simultaneously. Other proportioning devices are available to feed chemicals into the
water. If you are chlorinating to control disease-causing bacteria, you will need an alarm
device that indicates when the chlorine solution supply needs replenishing.
Because effective organism kill is a function of contact time, the chlorine solution
should be injected into the water as close to the source as possible. Adequate contact
time for disease-causing bacterial kill depends upon free chlorine residual, water
temperature, water pH (acidity), and the specific organism. Continuous chlorination
typically uses a chlorine residual of 3 to 5 ppm. This level is considerably higher than
that of municipalities (0.2 to 0.5 ppm) where the large distribution system provides a
long contact time. This level of residual chlorine may cause a taste and/or odor that is
objectionable.
At the 3 to 5 ppm level, adequate contact time for surface water supplies is in the
range of 2 to 7 minutes to develop the proper bacterial kill factor. For well water, a
contact time of 2 to 3 minutes is normally sufficient. In any case where disease-causing
bacteria are involved, tests should be conducted after installation and continued on a
regular basis to insure a safe water supply.
Research has shown that there is no dependable contact time calculation that can be
used to test the pressure tank of the water system. The piping in home water systems
usually provides little contact time. The time between the pump and the nearest faucet is
usually one minute or less. A coil of plastic pipe can be used to increase contact time.
The length of pipe required depends on the pipe diameter and the flow rate. For example,
to achieve a 4-minute contact time with a 10 gallon per minute flow rate, you would need
128 feet of 3 inch nominal diameter pipe or 480 feet of 1.5 inch nominal diameter pipe.
Your pipe supplier should be able to assist you in selecting the proper size and length
for your required contact time and flow rate.
Continuous chlorination is expensive and requires frequent and intelligent management.
It should not be considered for disease-causing bacteria control until other alternatives
have been fully explored.
Funding for this publication was by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Extension
Service, under project number 90-EWQI-19252.