Turfgrass Establishment and Maintenance for
Home Lawns and Athletic Fields
H-1170, May 1999
Ron Smith, Extension Horticulturist and Turfgrass
Specialist
Dale Herman, Professor of Horticulture
Department of Plant Sciences
The diversity of turfgrasses
available means we have a selection to meet almost any need. They
can be used to control erosion and filter out non-source
pollution, protect the home from fire hazards, help control
vermin problems, provide an aesthetic canvas for other landscape
plants, allow a golfer to sink the perfect putt, and help the
athlete perform at their best without fear of non-contact injury.
Grasses cover a greater portion of the earth's surface than
any other plant material. North America is the natural habitat
for approximately 1400 species, with hundreds of them thriving in
our Great Plains environment. For turfgrass culture in our
region, however, we are working with fewer than a dozen different
species for home, recreational, athletic, and roadside use. Our
society insists on high-quality environments for work, play, and
relaxation, and the right turfgrass, properly maintained, will
help meet that expectation.
The grass that is suitable for the home lawn isn't necessarily
the best one for use on athletic fields. The grass that thrives
on athletic fields may also be a poor choice for roadsides or
parks that have dappled shade from mature trees. Generally, for
all areas in the northern Great Plains, cool-season grasses
predominate for most purposes. The warm-season grasses that are
winter-hardy are used in low-maintenance or low-water-requiring
sites (generally referred to as "xeric" landscapes).
Grasses Suitable for Home Lawns
The grass species used for home lawns include many cultivars
of Kentucky bluegrass, red fescue, chewings fescue, hard fescue,
tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass. These are grasses that are
most attractive and grow vigorously during the cooler months of
spring and autumn. For the home lawn, mixtures are often the best
choice, with the Kentucky bluegrass cultivars making up 55 to 60%
of the mixture, followed by a cultivar or two of red fescue
(30-35%), with perennial ryegrass (10-15%) making up the smallest
portion. Generally, after a year or two, perennial ryegrass is
crowded out by the more aggressive Kentucky bluegrass. Avoid the
"bargain mixes" that have annual or Italian ryegrass (Lolium
multiflorum) as a component. The coarse grass blades, rank
growth, and yellowish-green color do not make a good mix for even
temporary mixing.
Kentucky bluegrass is the most adaptable cold-hardy,
cool-season grass species to use for home lawns. It has excellent
recuperative and competitive capacity. The rhizomatous nature of
Kentucky bluegrass allows it to virtually repair itself, a
quality that is lacking in most grasses. Red fescue also produces
rhizomes, but it lacks the extensive recuperative potential of
Kentucky bluegrass. Red fescue is sometimes referred to as
creeping red fescue.
Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue are not as cold hardy as
Kentucky bluegrass. Care should be taken in choosing cultivar
selections of these two species. Only cultivars that have proven
winter hardiness in turfgrass trials should be selected.
Buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides), a warm-season
stoloniferous species, is often used in conjunction with blue
grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis) as a xeric lawn. Seed of
buffalograss is expensive and a successful planting is difficult
to establish. It stays dormant until the temperatures warm
consistently and goes back into dormancy when the temperatures
drop to the low 40s. It is the only grass species that is
dioecious (male/female plants). It establishes rather quickly
from plugs when provided with supplemental irrigation and hand
weeding. Blue grama is also a warm-season grass.
The following recommended cultivars have been evaluated in
NDSU turfgrass trials at either Fargo, Dickinson, or Carrington.
Kentucky bluegrass cultivars are divided into two broad
classifications, improved (high-maintenance) or common
(low-maintenance). In some instances, the improved cultivars were
found to be adaptable to both high-maintenance and
low-maintenance inputs. Generally, the cultivars that are classed
as high-maintenance need supplemental irrigation and scheduled
fertilization (two to three times per growing season) to perform
and look their best. The common types receive no supplemental
irrigation and are allowed to enter dormancy during the summer
and recover when rainfall and cooler temperatures return in late
summer or early autumn. For a xeric landscape setting, select the
common cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass.
Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis)
cultivars recommended for high- and
low-maintenance areas
------------------------------------
High Low
------------------- -------------
Glade Parade Kenblue
Ram-I Nassau S.D. Common
Merit Harmony Plush
Bristol Welcome Park
Touchdown Trenton Ram-I
Victa Baron Fylking
Adelphi Nugget Victa
Barblue
Monopoly
Parade
------------------------------------
Fine fescue species/cultivars that have shown low
maintenance tolerance (1- rhizomatous, 2 - tufted
or bunch grass)
------------------------------------------------------
Botanical Name Common Name
------------------------------------------------------
1 - Festuca rubra `Dawson' Dawson Red Fescue
1 - Festuca rubra `Pennlawn' Pennlawn Red Fescue
1 - Festuca rubra `Cindy' Cindy Red Fescue
1 - Festuca rubra `Ruby' Ruby Red Fescue
2 - Festuca rubra var. fallax Jamestown Chewings
`Jamestown Chewings' Fescue
2 - Festuca brevipila `Scaldis' Scaldis Hard Fescue
2 - Festuca brevipila `Reliant' Reliant Hard Fescue
2 - Festuca ovina `MX-86' MX-86 Sheep Fescue
------------------------------------------------------
Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne)
cultivars recommended that have shown
good winter survival in North Dakota
trials. All are bunchgrasses.
--------------------------------------
Dandy Goalie
Dimension PS-8990
Gettysburg Stallion
--------------------------------------
Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) cultivars
recommended that have shown good quality
and winter survival in North Dakota trials.
All are bunchgrasses.
-------------------------------------------
Amigo Rebel Jr.
Arid Rebel II
Bonanza Wrangler II
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Establishment and Maintenance of Home
Lawns
Make sure the area is free of rhizomatous weeds like
quackgrass (Elymus repens) or Canada thistle (Cirsium
arvense). If such weeds are present, make sure a complete
kill is achieved using glyphosate (Roundup) applications prior to
seeding or sodding. This may take more than one application to be
successful, so allow sufficient time prior to grass
establishment.
Whether seeding or sodding, proper soil preparation is
necessary to reduce maintenance problems later on. The topsoil
should be spread at a constant depth, to match the original
contours of the subsoil (or roughgrade). Once the contours of the
finished grade are established, do not add additional topsoil, as
this would alter the movement of water through the soil profile.
Any fertilizer needed, based on soil test results, should be
mixed into the topsoil.
Establishment of a lawn by seeding is a task that should not
be taken lightly. Purchase only the highest quality seed
available on the market with known species and cultivars adapted
to this region. Determine the seed quality by noting the
germination and purity percentages — the higher the better.
For example, if a seed label containing `Kenblue' Kentucky
bluegrass, has a purity of 97% and a germination of 89%, the pure
live seed (PLS) percentage would be over 86% (0.97 x 0.89 x 100 =
86.3%). The higher the PLS percentage, the higher the quality of
the seed.
Timing is very important when establishing turf by seed. In
the Northern Plains the best time is mid-August to mid-September.
The warm days and cool nights are ideal for germination and
seedling growth, with greatly reduced weed competition when
compared to spring seeding. Weed invasion is the major problem
when establishing turf by seeding, although annuals will be
killed by fall frosts. Control of annual grass-type weeds like
crabgrass, foxtails, and barnyard grass can be attained with the
preemergence herbicide Siduron (Tupersan) at seeding without any
detrimental effects on the desirable grasses.
It is a good idea to have the soil tested prior to either the
initial seeding or a renovation seeding. Request a form and soil
test bag from the NDSU soil testing lab, and have the pH, N,P,K,
organic matter content, and electrical conductivity (EC) tested.
This will cost about $20. It provides an excellent snapshot of
the fertility status of the soil at the time of sowing, and helps
determine whether any additional nutrients are needed.
If no soil test is done it is a good practice to apply a
"starter fertilizer" during seedbed preparation. Such a
fertilizer will have an analysis similar to 16-25-12 (N,P,K)
where the major element is phosphorus, which aids in seedling
development, but does not overstimulate foliage growth. Till and
rake the area to be seeded to create a gradual slope that will
carry surface water slowly to the perimeter of the area,
preferably to a grass swale away from the house.
Tilling will leave the topsoil too soft. Once the final grade
is established, it is advisable to lightly roll the area with a
half-filled ballast roller to firm it up. The surface should
leave a footprint, not a hole where one has stepped.
Turfgrass seed mixtures are made up of different species of
seed, typically Kentucky bluegrass, red fescue, and perennial
ryegrass. Seed blends consist of one grass species but two or
more cultivars such as `Adelphi' and `Glade' Kentucky bluegrass.
Although differences exist among cultivars, on average Kentucky
bluegrass has about 2.1 million seeds per pound, while red fescue
has 0.546 million, and perennial ryegrass has 0.227 million seeds
per pound. Therefore, to have the same number of seeds of each
species, a much higher seeding rate of perennial ryegrass is
needed.
-----------------------------------------
lb/1,000
Seed Mixture sq.ft. lb/acre
-----------------------------------------
100% Kentucky bluegrass 1-1� 45-65
20% perennial rye +
80% Kentucky bluegrass 2-2� 85-110
50/50% perennial rye &
Kentucky bluegrass 3-3� 130-150
50/50% red fescue &
Kentucky bluegrass 2�-3 110-130
100% red fescue 3-4 130-175
100% tall fescue 6-8 260-345
-----------------------------------------
It is a good practice to divide the total amount of seed to be
used in half and seed in directions perpendicular to each other.
Once the fertilizer and seed have been spread, lightly rake to
slightly cover the seed. Rolling with a light ballast roller will
help firm the soil around the seed, facilitating better
establishment. Many grass species require light for germination.
Do not cover with more than a quarter inch of topsoil.
Keep the soil surface moist (not soaking wet!) to prevent
drying out during germination. It is a good practice to mulch the
seeded area with either hydro mulch (virgin wood fiber) or clean
straw to help conserve moisture and prevent runoff during heavy
rains. Perennial ryegrass will germinate in about five to seven
days, red fescue in about 12 to 14 days, and bluegrass in about
14 to 22 days.
Begin mowing as soon as the grass has grown to a height of
about 3 to 3� inches. Mow at no lower than 2� inches. Try to
avoid making any sharp turns on the new grass during the first
few mowings. Mow as often as necessary to keep from removing any
more than one-third of the grass blade length at one time. This
will help the grass to tiller and thicken into a healthy,
attractive turf.
Broadleaf weeds will appear among the emerging grass
seedlings. After three or more mowings, a post-emergence
herbicide can be applied that will provide control (see Extension
circular H-1009 revised, "Weed Control In North Dakota
Lawns").
In subsequent seasons, the turfgrass will respond to the care
it receives. Neglect will result in a somewhat thinner, weedier
lawn that does not complement the property or landscape. Regular
mowing on an as-needed basis is the most important on-going
maintenance operation. Select the mower suited to your property
size (see Extension circular H-1034 revised, "Looking Over
Lawn Mowers"). Be sure the blade is kept sharp!
Fertilization on common, low-maintenance lawns is best done
around Labor Day weekend, at a rate of 1.0 pound of nitrogen per
1000 square feet. A 50 pound bag of 28-3-10 would have 14 pounds
of actual N and would cover 14,000 square feet at that rate. With
high-maintenance lawns that are under irrigation, generally two
to three fertilizations are made. In the fall, around Labor Day,
in the spring, around Memorial Day, and in the summer around July
4. An alternative date for the third application is around
Columbus Day (October 12).
Fertilizers come in two basic forms — water soluble
nitrogen (WSN) and water insoluble nitrogen (WIN). The fall and
spring forms should have about 30 to 35% of their nitrogen coming
from WIN sources, and the July or October application should be
essentially 100% organic source.
Many new homeowners arrive to a freshly sodded lawn, or they
are given the option to have their lawn installed by sodding.
There are a number of advantages to sodding. First, the battle
with weeds is instantly over (assuming high-quality sod). Next,
the total water consumption to get the sod established is much
lower than that of a seeded lawn. Mud being dragged into the
house is eliminated and the need for pesticides is greatly
reduced. If a monetary value is assigned to the effort and time
required to establish a seeded lawn, the cost is nearly
break-even with having sod professionally installed.
One of the disadvantages of sod is that it is often grown on
soil that is different from that found on your property. This
creates an interface problem which can inhibit adequate root
penetration into the new soil. A remedy for this would be to core
aerate after the first year for at least three years in a row,
and either pick up the cores, pulverize them with a power rake,
or allow them to break down slowly over the next three to five
weeks. The effect of this procedure is to stimulate the root
system of the sod to "knit" into the soil better and
reduce disease problems that are inherent with sodded lawns.
Power raking the lawn is a time-honored practice that is often
unnecessary. The homeowner usually starts too early, tackling the
task with a rental unit as soon as the frost is out of the ground
and before the grass has a chance to grow. This sets the stage
for germination of weed seeds in the lawn. Wait until the grass
has begun growth ("greened-up"), then set the tines to
just impact the soil surface or thatch. This will clean the lawn
of debris and the raking action tends to aerate and dry the soil.
The soil then warms more quickly and the grass is stimulated to
grow faster.
If the lawn has a thatch problem, where thatch is greater than
� inch thick, set the tines of the power rake deeper, to slice
through the thatch. This will pull up mounds of debris which will
require ample time to rake up after the raking is completed. If
the thatch is extremely thick, the removal will require a
reseeding after the raking is done and the debris has been
removed. Anytime a dethatching operation removes more than 50% of
the desirable grass species, a reseeding is required.
As the landscape matures, trees and shrubs that had little
influence on the turfgrass are now shading the grass and causing
it to thin out. Also, over the many years of maturation,
repetitive traffic patterns may have compacted the soil to the
extent that it is impossible to grow grass in such areas. Under
these conditions, if more than 50% of the desired grass is gone,
a renovation is needed.
First, get rid of the weeds and existing grass with a
non-selective herbicide like glyphosate (Roundup). Next, mow the
dead vegetation as short as possible and collect the clippings.
Then dethatch with a power rake, going in two directions diagonal
to each other. Remove all debris, apply a starter fertilizer, and
broadcast the appropriate seed. Use a mixture high in red fescue
if the area is shady, or use a more wear-tolerant grass like tall
fescue where continuous traffic or activity occurs. Then follow
the procedure for turfgrass establishment from seed.
Athletic Field Establishment
With the exception of highly modified soil systems such as
Prescription Athletic Turf (PAT), the basic procedures for
athletic field establishment are the same as for those outlined
for home lawns. The major difference would be in selection of
turfgrass cultivars, as the desire would be to have fast
establishment and quick recovery from physical activity. Most
athletic fields (football, soccer, baseball, etc.) use a
combination of Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass in a
50/50 mix by weight. As with home lawns, if low maintenance is
budgeted, then the use of common cultivars is suggested. Where
the system is going to get intensive maintenance, then a
combination of three or more elite cultivars of Kentucky
bluegrass and two to three cultivars of perennial ryegrass should
be used. Seeding rate is carried out at the higher end of the
recommendations.
Seed Priming and Pregermination
Athletic field managers and golf course superintendents who
are under pressure to get turf established quickly from seed will
often resort to one of these two practices. The basic procedures
are the same for both processes, except that in seed priming the
radical never emerges from the seed coat. The priming process
also utilizes various salt concentrations or polyethylene glycol
to limit the amount of water that can enter the seed.
Pregermination is the soaking of seed in water that is changed
daily until the root radical is just visible. If done properly,
both the priming and pregermination techniques stimulate
emergence of seedlings in as short as 10 days in
slow-to-germinate species like Kentucky bluegrass. It will also
cut down on the incidence of pythium in the seedling stand. Seed
that has been pregerminated needs to be planted immediately to
prevent drying out while primed seed can be dried and sown days
later if necessary.
The same process is approximated in nature with a practice
known as dormant seeding. Under dormant seeding conditions, the
seed is sown late enough in the season so that there is little
chance of complete germination taking place. It is done before
the ground freezes (keeping track of weather conditions, but
around late October or early November). The seed imbibes the
moisture from the late autumn rains or early wet snowfalls, but
does not germinate due to the low temperatures. By the time
spring arrives, the biological clock of the seed for germination
has advanced to the point where it will emerge much sooner than
spring applied seed and be worthy competitors with emerging weed
seedlings.
The success of dormant seeding hinges on correct timing and
the weather. If the soil is cool enough so that no germination
takes place, and if favorable winter conditions exist giving
continuous snow cover and little or no chance for erosion, an
acceptable stand of grass can be established the following
spring. It is best carried out on sites having poor drainage and
where it would be difficult to get equipment on the site early
next growing season. It is a common practice to dormant seed
football, soccer, and rugby fields after the last game in the
fall.
The athletic field manager, as well as the homeowner, should
attempt to incorporate endophyte-enhanced turfgrass cultivars
whenever possible. The organism, an internal fungus (Neotyphodium
previously Acremonium spp) lives in a symbiotic
relationship of mutual benefit with the turfgrass. Research has
shown that grasses enhanced with this endophyte establish
quicker, are more disease resistant and more drought tolerant,
but most importantly, repel surface feeding insects like chinch
bugs and sod webworms.
The endophyte content would be on the seed package, and is
commonly found in fescues and perennial ryegrasses. Research
carried on by Jacklin Seed Company has shown that endophytes can
also live in Kentucky bluegrass and creeping bentgrass. Cultivars
of these two species that contain endophytes will be appearing on
the market in the near future.
Athletic Field Maintenance and Fertilization
Football and Track Fields
A football field contains 57,600 square feet within the
sidelines. The area outside the sidelines and inside the running
track that surrounds most football fields, contains a minimum of
30,000 square feet. Together, these two areas comprise at least
88,000 square feet, or 2 acres of turfgrass. For this turf area
to look good and provide a safe, effective playing surface, a
regular maintenance regime must be followed. This would involve
fertilization, pre-emergence weed control, post-emergence weed
control, aerification and/or topdressing, seeding, mowing, and
irrigation.
With football and other athletic fields, each one of these
basic operations must be timed carefully to maximize the desired
impact of safety, playability, and aesthetics.
Fertilization should be carried out three times per year,
applying 4 to 6 pounds of actual N per season for maximum
results. At least one-half the N should come from controlled
release forms. Applying 13 50-pound bags of a fertilizer with an
analysis of 21-4-18 will supply about 1.5 pounds N and about 1.3
pounds K per 1000 square feet. As with the N, about one-half of
the K should be in the slow-release form. This will provide the
turf with 4.5 pounds of N and 3.9 pounds of K per 1000 square
feet for the season. This rate can be adjusted higher for
extremely high wear and more frequent irrigation.
Soccer Fields
A soccer field has an approximate area of 77,625 square feet of
turf, along with approximately 8,000 square feet on the sidelines
that is subject to heavy traffic. As a rule, figure about 85,000
square feet of turf to be maintained.
Applying 12 50-pound bags of the same analysis (21-4-18)
fertilizer will again provide about 1.5 pounds of N and about 1.3
pounds of K per 1000 square feet with each application, with
seasonal results being the same as with football fields.
Baseball Fields
Baseball fields with a measurement of 300 feet down the foul
lines will contain approximately 70,000 square feet of turfgrass,
depending on the distance to the center field fence line. In
addition, there is about 10,000 square feet of turf outside the
foul lines that will need regular maintenance, giving a total of
about 80,000 square feet that will need fertilization.
Baseball is not as stressful on turfgrass as soccer and
football and less replacement or recuperative growth is required.
Therefore, a lower application of the fertilizer (21-4-18) will
usually provide the needed results. Using 1.0 pound N per 1000
square feet as the guide, eight 50-pound bags would provide this
amount with each application. At this rate, 0.9 pounds of K would
also be applied.
In some instances, the infield is treated almost like a
putting green. In that case, the maintenance in this area
(roughly 8,100 square feet) would be more intensive, with the
frequency of application being stepped up to four to six times
per year, but still not exceeding the total of 6 pounds of N per
1000 square feet per season.
Field Hockey
A field hockey turfgrass measures 300 by 180 feet, for a total of
54,000 square feet, the same size as a football field without the
end zones. Count on another 9,000 square feet along the sidelines
for maintenance requirements, for a total of 63,000 square feet.
This would take nine bags of the fertilizer of choice (21-4-18),
totaling 450 pounds per application, or 1,350 pounds for the
season. This will provide the field with the requisite 4.5 pounds
of N and 3.9 pounds of K per 1000 square feet for the season.
Lacrosse Fields
A lacrosse field measures 110 by 60 yards, for a total of 59,400
square feet of playing turf. Figure 10,600 square feet being
added as sideline turf that would need to be part of the
maintenance scheduling. To get the rate of 1.5 pounds of N per
1000 square feet per application, would require 10 bags of the
fertilizer selection (21-4-18) each time, or a total of 30 bags
for the season. This would provide the required 1.5 pounds N and
1.28 pounds of K per 1000 square feet for each application.
Weed Control — Pre- and Post-Emergence
Weed control is extremely important on athletic fields.
Pre-emergence herbicides should be applied the latter part of
April to early May for grass weed control. Post-emergent
herbicides are applied about 10 to 14 days before or after the
Memorial Day weekend, depending on the progress of spring weather
and field location. Maintaining dense turfgrass through
recommended cultural practices (proper mowing, fertilization,
overseeding, and irrigation) will greatly reduce the need for
chemical weed control.
On all sports fields that are regularly used, core
aerification should be done at least twice a year; in the spring
when the grass is actively growing, and later in the season prior
to the start of a game series. In both cases, the cores should
either be pulverized with a power rake, dragged back in, or
removed, and the field topdressed with the appropriate root-zone
mix.
If the field needs aerification during the playing season,
coring is often not desirable. Solid-tine slicing would relieve
surface compaction without play disruption.
Topdressing, which involves the thin application of soil over
the turf surface, is one of the most important cultural practices
in the maintenance of high-quality athletic fields. Done
properly, it functions to smooth the turf surface and fill in
damaged areas. It can be used to reduce thatch and fill in the
holes left by core aeration. The use of soil or composts with
proper biological components has been shown to reduce diseases.
Topdressing with materials like crumb rubber will soften the soil
surface and protect the grass crown from abrasive damage in
high-traffic areas.
When the fields are not in use for a couple of days, a
one-fourth inch layer can be applied, giving the grass time to
recover and not hamper the skill of the players. Be sure the soil
applied is as close to the underlying soil as possible. This will
prevent layering, which could lead to water movement problems.
Once a topdressing mix has been established, it should not be
changed.
Seeding should be an on-going operation. Seed after each
aerification or topdressing. Seed during the playing seasons of
soccer and football, allowing the activity of the athletes to
help incorporate the seed. Use only top-quality seed, with as
high a purity and germination percentage that can be found, and
selecting aggressive, deep-rhizome cultivars of Kentucky
bluegrass like `Glade', `Touchdown', and `Limousine'. Quality
cultivars such as these should be mixed with perennial ryegrass
cultivars that are winter hardy in a 50/50 (w/w) mix.
Mow as needed to keep the grass at proper playing height. This
often means mowing on a three-day cycle to keep from removing any
more than one-third of the blade at a time. Remove clippings if
windrows result from delays in mowing. Keep the blades sharpened!
Keep tires properly inflated, and alternate mowing direction each
time.
For game show grooming, striped mowing, or following up with a
power sweeper provides a polished, professional, TV-camera
ready look. When the field is out of play for a period of
weeks, raise the mowing height to the next nominal level (e.g.,
2.5 to 3.0 inches, to build a stronger root, rhizome, and crown
system).
Irrigation systems should be activated in May and controlled
automatically to provide 1.0 to 1.5 inches of precipitation per
week, should deficiency in rainfall occur. Water as needed, but
avoid overwatering. Apply water to match the infiltration and
percolation rate of the soil or root-zone media. Do not allow the
turf to enter dormancy. Keep the system updated as needed to
provide head-to-head coverage when operating. Moisture or rain
sensors should be installed when possible. Check the irrigation
system frequently throughout the season to assure proper
functioning of controller, valves, and heads.
Syringing is suggested through the hot, dry periods of the
summer. This will lower the turfgrass surface temperature through
evaporative cooling and wash off accumulated compounds that are
exuded through the pores in the leaves. This serves two purposes.
It relieves the grass from heat stress and helps cut down on
disease development. Syringing can be done with a hand held hose
or an automatic irrigation system, applying just enough water to
wet the turf canopy (two to three minutes per station).
Schedule fall blow-out for winterization in early October.
Draw up a list of needed replacement parts for next season and
include them in the budgeting process.
H-1170, May 1999
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